Sometimes we can have a tendency to ignore our habitual surroundings as photographers. In this series of photos from the film archive, I’m going to show you part of the route I use to go to work. What is ordinary to one person might be an pastoral idyl to somebody else. It only goes to show that there is beauty everywhere in this world and one of our roles as photographers is to document it for future generations.
My wife, bless her, has always said that my black and white photos have a timeless feel to them, be they in the city or out here in the country. I think that using film, especially this grainy HP5 Plus, even shot at box speed, adds to that sentiment. The fact that I used Rodinal as my developer might have accentuated the grain too. Also don’t forget that this is the beginning of my return to film development so I might have been a little vigorous in my “agitations” whilst developing the film. I now use mostly Ilfosil 3 and lower grain film, and have brought a little more “calm” to my “agitations.”
The camera that day was the FED 5 rangefinder camera from Ukraine. I’ve talked about it before, and although I mainly use SLRs, I still feel guilty about not using it more. It’s a beautiful camera and I don’t want it to feel neglected. I might just have to correct that soon.
I lived just outside Paris for 7 years before moving out to the country in 2001. The change in ambiance was startling. I went from blocks of flats to village life in the French countryside. I went from riding the metro, and suburban Parisian trains, to learning to drive though this beautiful landscape. Driving through this scenery still gets me every time I get into the car. I wonder what I’ll see. I see the changes in the fields and countryside through the seasons.
I want you to promise me, Dear Reader, that you will take a closer look at your route to work, and maybe I can convince you to record it too for prosperity. Don’t worry about film or camera, even just using your phone will do the trick.
In October 2010, Kevin Systrom and Mike Krieger launched Instagram. With its filters and simple interface, it changed how people shared photos and opened up mobile photography to everyone. It’s been a different story lately.
In the early days, the chronological feed and the filters turned casual snapshots into something people were proud to share, and a real photography community grew up around it. That changed when the algorithm did. Instagram now prioritises whatever gets the most likes, comments and shares, which rewards trends and viral content over anything more considered. Photos increasingly lose out to Reels and short-form video, so photographers get buried regardless of the quality of the work.
Then there’s the influencer problem. Fame on Instagram now has more to do with follower counts than with talent, and that culture of self-promotion and brand deals pushes genuine artistic work further down the feed. It also feeds a fairly unhealthy cycle of comparison for anyone still trying to make honest work.
None of this means photographers are out of options. VERO runs a chronological, ad-free feed built with visual artists in mind. 500px is still a proper home for photography, contests included. Glass is a newer app built specifically around long-form visual storytelling. Ello has always positioned itself as artist-first, without the algorithm or the ads.
Instagram isn’t really a photography platform any more. It’s a video and influencer platform that photography happens to live on. If you want your work seen for what it is rather than how it performs, it might be worth spending more time on one of the alternatives instead.
How many times have I seen grown men go to pieces at the suggestion of using manual mode? Or worse, how many times have I seen other grown men saying that to be a real photographer you have to master manual mode otherwise you’re not a real photographer? Let me assure you that it’s not as complicated as it sounds. When I took my first photography lessons in 1984, I learnt it as a child. You’ve got this, and I’m here to accompany you through the process. As the Hitchkiker’s Guide so elegantly says, in comforting letters, “Don’t Panic!”
There are some basic concepts to understand, the first of which is the exposure triangle which we were introduced to in the Photography 101 article. Those three things to consider are, ISO, or film sensitivity, shutter speed, aperture, and balancing them together.
Are you ready? We’ll go step by step telling you how each of these settings influence your shot, and how we will balance them to create the image that “you” want instead of the image that your “camera” wants to take. You are the creative boss after all. And that is the reason that people use Manual Mode.
ISO, or film sensitivity
When I started learning photography in the last century was I was a young boy, yes I was young once, we only had film as a means to capture our images. You would choose your film in function of the light available. And when using my film cameras I still work in this way. 100 ASA (which is the same as ISO on modern camera) for sunny conditions, sometimes even 50 ASA, where the film can be used in bright conditions, going through to 200 ASA when it’s cloudy, but with sun shining through, to 400 ASA when overcast, 800 ASA when inside or even 1600 ASA, to 3200 ASA for night photography.
In the film days we would talk about the presence or absence of grain and this was part of the deal. You would get less grain the lower down the ASA range you went, and more grain the further up you went. And this grain was a result of the crystals on the film emulsion, and the chemical developing process. The choice could be as much about lighting conditions as an artistic decision. Once the film you chose was in the camera however, it didn’t change until you changed your film.
Nowadays with all this modern technology palaver, you can change this ISO (because it’s digital photography) and change it for each photo. Unfortunately the higher up you go in these values, the more “noise” you will get. This digital noise is in a random pattern and totally unlike the grain of film photography.
Shutter speed
Shutter speed, as the words suggest, is about the speed of which the shutter opens and closes to expose either the film or camera’s sensor. You see, I told you that this would be simple to understand. If I can get it, then so can you. So now we’re on to speed. When changing the speed of which the light hits the film or the shutter, I can freeze motion, of get a conscious motion blur, where the photo will seem animated.
Let’s say I want to take a photo of somebody running towards me. I will use a higher shutter speed to freeze the action. Think of sports photography, of catching a pass of a ball in rugby, or a footballer stopping a ball etc. Those factors will make or break your image. Imagine a photo of a football match and you can’t see the ball because it’s going faster than your shutter. It might not work out for you. In this situation, on my film cameras I will let the shutter curtain open for just 1/1000th of a second. Depending on which digital camera I can go as quick as 1/8000 th of a second.
Let’s go to the other extreme. I’m taking photos of a landscape and I want to show the motion of trees in the wind, the movement of the clouds, or the movement of water. I will use a longer shutter speed, say anything from 1/8th of a second to one second… The subject will be moving faster than the shutter curtain, and I will get that artistic blur.
I could be somewhere very dark, so in order to get a clear photo, I will have to let more light through onto my film or sensor.There I might have to use bulb mode in order to leave the shutter curtain for longer than 2 seconds.
For shooting a subject walking I would use 1/125th to 1/250th of a second to freeze the frame. When using a flash in manual mode, I would aim to be around 1/60th of a second (which depends on your camera’s flash sync value). When talking about shutter speeds I’m thinking of my film cameras and bearing in mind that most digital cameras will have wider ranges of shutter speed. Another tip for you would be to not let your shutter speed go below the number of your focal length (the legendary reciprocal rule). Let’s say I’m using a 50mm lens, then I would not use a speed under 1/50th of a second, or even 1/60th of a second. If I have a 200mm lens I would not go under 1/200th of a second. This is to counterbalance the weight of the lens and avoid lens shake.
Conclusion
This article has a lot of information in it and I have decided to separate everything and have a Part II. In this Part I we have talked about sensitivity to light be that film, and the different ratings of films for various lighting situations. In digital photography we have a wider range of ISO settings and with the newer cameras, the noise in an ISO 3200 setting will produce a much less grainy image than with film. However this “grain” can be used as an artistic choice and I will let “you” experiment and see what each film gives you.
We have talked about shutter speed, and the ability to freeze an instant with a higher speed. And the opposite of this to create motion in our image.
In my next article, we will talk about Aperture and how this effects depth of field and discover the rich creaminess of bokeh. We will also explore various scenarii and give concrete examples of the effects of this triangle and how to turn it into an advantage.
I shoot both 35mm and medium format, and people occasionally ask which one they should pick up first. Here’s my honest answer, with the two side by side so you can see the difference for yourself rather than take my word for it.
35mm is the format everyone starts with. It’s the standard: easy to find, easy to get developed, and every camera shop from here to Nantes has a fridge full of it. Medium format is a different animal entirely, and the differences show up the moment you hold a negative up to the light.
The most obvious one is detail. A medium format negative is so much bigger than a 35mm frame that it just holds more information, more texture, finer lines, without trying. If you want a print that rewards someone standing close up and looking hard, medium format gets you there faster.
Then there’s the shape of the thing. 35mm gives you the familiar 3:2 rectangle. A lot of medium format cameras, mine included, shoot square, 6×6. That square forces you to compose differently. You can’t lean on the usual rectangle instincts. Vivian Maier shot almost entirely on a TLR in square format, and it’s part of why her street work looks the way it does, different balance, different eye. I won’t pretend I’ve got her eye, but the square format does make you slow down and actually think about balance instead of defaulting to the rule of thirds out of habit.
Depth of field is shallower on medium format too, which is handy for portraits or any shot where you want the subject to properly separate from the background. Get the composition right and your subject sits there against a soft blur that 35mm makes you work much harder for.
Size and weight go the other way. 35mm cameras are small and light, which matters when you’re moving fast on the street. Medium format bodies, mine especially (see my Mamiya C220 review for exactly how much of a beast it is), are bulkier and heavier, and that changes how you shoot. Less grab-and-go, more plan-and-wait.
Cost is the other real difference. 35mm and its development are cheap. Medium format isn’t. Shoot 6×6 and you get twelve frames a roll, not thirty-six, which changes your relationship with the shutter button fast. If you get twitchy shooting 35mm, wait until you’re down to twelve frames and every one of them costs real money. That said, no shot is wasted, even the ones that don’t work teach you something, and if you’re after gallery prints or paid work, the extra cost of medium format tends to pay for itself in the result.
35mm also just moves faster in daily use, candid shots, quick reactions, film that’s easy to get processed anywhere. Medium format asks you to slow down and actually think through a shot before you take it, which some days I love and some days I find a proper faff.
Below is the same rough scene shot on both: a 35mm frame on the Pentax ME Super with a 50mm lens, and a medium format frame on the Mamiya C220 with an 80mm lens (roughly equivalent field of view). Have a look and decide for yourself which you prefer.
The 35mm frame, shot on the Pentax ME Super. The standard format, the one everyone knows.
The square 6×6 frame, shot on the Mamiya C220. Judge the difference for yourself.
Same rough field of view, 50mm on the 35mm body, 80mm on the medium format body, and you can already see how differently the square frame reads next to the rectangle.
If you want to go further into medium format, a Mamiya C220 review is coming, where I’ll go into what it’s actually like carrying that thing around Nantes for a day.
There’s no correct answer here, whatever the camera forums tell you. I use both, for different reasons, on different days. 35mm when I want to move fast and not think too hard. Medium format when I’ve got the time to plan a shot properly and want the negative to reward it. Pick whichever one matches how you actually like to work, not which one sounds more serious.
In my previous articles (Part I, Part II, Part III), we’ve embarked on a journey to understand the basics in photography. I have talked about exposure, set out some of the “rules” of composition, and even delved into the world of colour theory. Today, I’d like to introduce you to the rule of odds and the rules of space, two fundamental elements that will take your photography to the next level.
Before we talk about these new concepts, let me reiterate the importance of building a solid foundation. Just as we did with framing, negative space, and colour theory, it’s crucial to master each concept before moving on to the next. Take your time to learn and apply these principles in your photography journey. The other articles will stay up, and you can read them at your leisure.
The Rule of Odds in Photography
The rule of odds is a composition guideline that suggests using an odd number of subjects or elements in your frame, typically three or five, rather than even numbers. Why? Because odd numbers tend to create a more balanced and visually pleasing composition.
When you use the rule of odds, you create a natural focal point within your photograph. Our eyes are drawn to the centre subject, and the uneven arrangement adds a sense of harmony and intrigue to the image. The result? A more captivating and dynamic photo that engages your viewers. It’s all about balance.
Rules of Space: Balance and Direction
Now, let’s look at the rules of space. This concept involves how you position elements and subjects within your frame to achieve balance and direct the viewer’s gaze. It leaves space for the subject and can be used in multiple ways as a storytelling tool. It can also be used in conjunction with the other composition techniques that I have talked about in my previous articles.
Tips
Think outside the frame. What is going on outside the frame becomes as important as what is oing on inside the frame. Let’ take the picture of the guitarist. Who is he looking at? What’s going on outside the frame? Is there an audience? Where is the audience? Using rules of space the viewer will more curious and be more engaged in the photo.
Conclusion
One can talk about composition and the effect it has on photography till the cow come home. People will always bring up “composition” and will always tell you how “they” would have done it differently. In these four articles you will now know what they are talking about and be able to decide for yourself. In absolute terms, “your” photographs are about what “you” saw, and only “you” can see that. But keep the rules that we have discussed in the back of your mind, and take your photograph with purpose and being conscious about what you are doing. Mindfulness is the key.
My next article will talk about the differences between 35mm film photography and medium format photography. For film enthusiasts or anyone else who is curious you will be entering into a new world. There are, of course, trade offs between each format, and we will discover them. Maybe you’ll be bitten by the Medium Format bug too… As always Dear Reader, I appreciate your enthusiasm, and I look forward to our next exploration together. Until then, happy shooting!
Good composition is the difference between a photograph that holds attention and one that gets scrolled past. The rule of thirds, leading lines, symmetry — these aren’t arbitrary rules, they’re the language of visual weight, and understanding them is the foundation of all strong photography. This guide covers the core principles with examples, whether you shoot film or digital.
In my last article we talked about exposure, and balancing the elements that form the “exposure triangle”, i.e. the sensitivity of the film that we’re using, of the ISO setting on our camera sensor, the shutter speed, i.e. how long we let the light hit the film, or camera sensor, and aperture, i.e. the size of the hole that light comes through measured in F-Stops. When these elements are in perfect osmosis, we should get a decently exposed photograph.
Introduction to composition principles
Now we shall take this knowledge and build upon it with notions of composition, i.e. how we will organise the elements in our photograph. Sometimes we have control of where these elements are, for example when creating a still life image. Other times we have no control whatsoever and just have to move ourselves instead. The way we do this is by thinking about our “Composition.”
As humans we are all guided by rules, some universally moral, some defined by the country we live in (like in France where they seem to be forbidden to make a decent up of tea), and Art is no exception. There are rules in Art that make an image pleasing naturally to the eye, and, believe it or not, these “rules” have been around for a long time. Now I hear you little rebels sat at the back of the classroom near the radiator saying how you don’t live by rules, and that you break every rule in the book. And I have no problem with that. I would however suggest you learn the “rules of composition” first and then, and only then break them knowingly.
Photography is art made with light, and the first photographers were heavily influenced by the art and paintings in the local Art Galleries. They therefore had a very “classical” notion of composition. I want you to imagine those massive oil paintings in a gold frame showing a Victorian gentleman looking over the top of a waterfall, framed by the forests, and still looking so dapper.
The Rule of thirds
This is one the first things that people will talk about when talking about composition. The idea, as the name suggests is to divide a photo equally into thirds horizontally and vertically, and put the point of interest (subject) where the lines intersect. Or you could have a landscape photo where sky will take up two thirds of the photograph and the foreground the other third. In editing software, when framing you shot they will put a three by three grid on your photo automatically. Some digital cameras allow the use of this grid inside the viewfinder. When taking a portrait you would ideally have the eye where the lines cross. Yes Ian, but this has been done, done, and done again, and has become a cliché I hear you say. Possibly, but it works mate! Don’t knock it. As I said earlier, learn the rule, master using the rule, and then you might consider breaking the rule, but it will be a conscious decision and above all, deliberate. But it will permit a pleasing and natural result.
Leading Lines and Perspective
Leading lines are lines that lead the eye into the photograph, turning it into something dynamic. The lines will converge on a certain point in the image, which, if you want, can be on the grid that I described in the last section. This point is the vanishing point, and give geometrical forms to your image, and can lead to the subject of you photo. When using straight lines,you can emphasis to shapes in architecture and acquire a very “graphic” image. Using a wide angled lens or even a fish eye lens will emphasize these line even further and the distortion of these lenses will add even more interest to your image. I will talk about the most common lenses in a future article. We’re not there yet. The lines don’t have to be straight, they can be curved or S shaped. Think of a winding road in the countryside. Whichever version you use, there will be a feeling of being drawn in to the scene.
In the first photograph of the original Pegasus Bridge all the lines converge to a central point with a person standing which gives us an idea of the scale of the bridge. These straight geometrical lines give a feeling of stability and solidity.
In the second photograph, we can see an image that uses an S curve, and as you can see, the effect is totally different. More subtle, but they eye is still drawn in to the image.
Leading lines can appear in nature and in the landscape. Look at the way that the tree line and lines in the mountains converge on a specific part of the photograph and show the different layers of the photograph.
I seem to use them in quite a few of my photos, and with time, you won’t even have to seek them out. You will be lead…
Symmetry in photography
In last week’s article we talked about exposure and how it is a balancing act between the three elements: film sensitivity, aperture, and shutter speed. We can find this symmetry in our compositions too.
Symmetry in photography is a fundamental principle that enhances the visual impact of images. It involves balancing elements on both sides of a central axis or point. There are various types of symmetry, including horizontal, vertical, radial, and bilateral, each offering unique opportunities for creating appealing compositions. Symmetry naturally draws the viewer’s eye, adds stability, and is particularly useful in architectural, landscape, and macro photography. However, breaking symmetry with a contrasting element can introduce tension and creativity. By framing subjects thoughtfully, adjusting camera angles, and recognizing symmetry in both natural and man-made subjects, photographers can master this powerful tool for captivating compositions.
In summary, symmetry in photography is about creating balance and harmony through the arrangement of elements within the frame. It provides a sense of order, highlights patterns, and engages viewers, while also allowing for creative deviations when necessary to convey a specific message or emotion.
Conclusion
Firstly let’s not be fixated by these rules. I was right to describe them as “guides” to composition. Talking about them is fine, but we have to put them into action. Don’t try to do them all at once. Take one rule. Look at it closely. Think how can I use this one rule? How can I master it, or at least take it on board. When you think that is is engrained into your mind, then start using a different concept. I can’t stress that when learning, take your time. Let the concept become second nature.
There will be occasions when you feel that you are no longer advancing in your composition, but stick at it. You will not obtain mastery after just one outing. I’ve been doing this for 40 years and am still learning something new each time I go out with my camera. People talk about being on a photographic journey, and that is a very good way of looking at it. You can’t run before you can walk. Don’t let yourself be overwhelmed by what you might see on Instagram, or even on this blog. We are all at different places on this path.
In next week’s episode we will explore framing, negative space, colour theory, texture. There will be a third article to cover pattern and repetition, scale and proportion, depth and layering. There are so many points to talk about in composition that we may even have a fourth article but we’re not there yet!
I picked up a Canon AE-1 Program a while back, mostly out of curiosity. It came out in 1981, it’s a 35mm SLR, and it’s probably the most common “serious” film camera you’ll find in a charity shop or on a French brocante table for silly money. Mine’s been through a lot of rolls since, and I still reach for it more than I expected to.
The thing that sold me was how it handles exposure. In Program mode it sets shutter speed and aperture itself, so if I just want to point it at something and not think, I can. That’s handy on days when I’ve got my hands full and don’t want to fuss with settings. But it’s not just an automatic box: switch it over and you get full manual control, plus shutter priority and a bulb mode for long exposures. I’ve used the bulb mode for a couple of night shots and it did exactly what I needed, nothing more complicated than holding the shutter open and counting.
Build-wise, it’s a metal body, and it feels like it. Solid, a bit heavy, no creak in the hinges. There’s something about handling an old metal camera after a run of plastic ones that just feels right, even if that’s pure nostalgia talking. The viewfinder is bright and clear with a split-image prism in the middle, so focusing manually is quick once you know what you’re looking for. There’s a hot shoe if you want to bolt on a flash, and a self-timer, which I mostly use for the odd self-portrait when there’s nobody around to hand the camera to.
For the record, here’s what you’re working with:
35mm SLR film camera
Program, shutter priority, and manual modes
Metal body
Split-image prism viewfinder
Hot shoe for flash
Self-timer
ISO 12 to 1600
Shutter speeds from 1/1000 down to 30 seconds
Aperture range f/1.2 to f/16, depending on the lens
Only real gripe: because it’s so well known and well liked, prices have crept up over the years. It’s not the bargain it once was. That’s the price of being a favourite, I suppose.
Would I recommend it? Yes, easily, whether you’re starting out with film or you’ve been shooting for years and want something you can trust without thinking too hard about it. I’ve had mine for a good while now and it hasn’t let me down once. The way it moves between automatic and manual without any fuss means I can shoot however the moment demands, and that’s really all I want from a camera.
Here’s a straight scan next to a version with a few basic tweaks in Lightroom, nothing heavy. Curious what you make of the difference.
The idea here is to give you a raw image from the film scans and show you what you can get with a minimum of fuss in Lightroom with some very basic edits. What do you think?
And below is a small selection from the last roll I developed, shot in 2022 on the streets of Nantes. More to come, I’m sure, now that I’m back into film properly.
