Tag: creative process

Where I’ve Been: Life, Photos & Bursting Tyres

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Good morning, dear reader.

Hello lovely people. I know it’s been a couple of weeks since I shared any photography—nothing for your perusal, your viewing pleasure, your delectation—but fear not: I’m still alive and almost kicking.

Life has been happening, as it tends to do. But I have been busy behind the lens, and I’ve got photos from left, right, and even centre. Lourdes. The mountains. The wild coast of Brittany. There was even a family photoshoot for my mother-in-law and two of her daughters. All with stories attached, of course. I just need the time to edit the images and write them up properly for you.

Recent Life & Travel Updates

So what’s new in my world?

Well, my son has moved into his own place with a mate—which is both a proud and surreal moment for a parent. As for me, I managed to burst two tyres on my car by accidentally driving up onto a particularly cruel bit of pavement. I was properly disgusted with myself.

Thankfully, the garage reassured me that I wasn’t a rubbish driver—that stretch of pavement had claimed more than a few victims. Apparently, I’m just one in a long line.

I’m now looking into getting a different car for my upcoming summer trip to the UK. That, and I’ve been eyeing drones—yes, partially because a mate has one, but also because the cinematic potential is just too good to ignore.

Dipping Into Video & Drone Photography

Lately, I’ve been making short training films for work, which has nudged me into exploring video for myself. It’s been a learning curve, but I’m enjoying it. Drone footage, in particular, would give my personal video projects that sweeping, cinematic feel everyone seems to be chasing right now.

It’s exciting to try new creative tools—it stretches the eye and challenges how I think about framing, movement, and story.

Favourite Photography Gear Right Now

If you’re curious about the gear I’ve been reaching for lately, here’s what’s been in my rotation:

  • Fuji X100F with the 23mm f/2.0 (35mm equivalent) – perfect for mindful black and white street work.
  • Canon 6D Mark II with the 16–35mm f/4.0 – excellent for dramatic landscapes and travel shots.
  • Fuji XT-2 with the 18–55mm f/2.8–4.0 – a solid choice for work-related video filming.

And yes—I’m still working in both black and white and colour. I love both approaches, but when I shoot black and white, I try to do so deliberately, not just as an afterthought in post. The choice of tone affects everything—the light I look for, the lens I pick, even the timing of the shutter.

What’s Next: Photo Editing, Writing & More

Music is winding down for the season after some fantastic concerts. Meanwhile, the world rolls on—there’s a new Pope I quite like, and it seems Donald and Elon are in a bit of a spat again (but let’s not get into that).

As for me, I’m getting back to editing, writing, and creating. Thank you for bearing with the silence—new photos, stories, and perhaps even videos will be coming soon.

Until then, keep well, stay curious, and maybe avoid the pavements.

— Ian

Photography Philosophy – Part V – Identity and Self-Expression

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A photo doesn’t just show you what’s in front of the camera. It shows you something about whoever’s holding it too. What you point it at, what you wait around for, how you frame the thing, all of that gives you away eventually, whether you meant it to or not.

The selfie question

Take the selfie, probably the most modern version of self-expression going. For some people it’s genuine. For a lot of people it’s a carefully staged little performance for Instagram, hashtag lifestyle, hashtag ootd, hashtag me-myself-and-I. I’m not knocking it exactly, but it does make you wonder how much of it is really self-expression and how much is just performance.

That’s not really what I mean when I talk about photography reflecting who you are, though. Photography’s the one art form where you get to look through the exact same hole I looked through when I pressed the shutter. You’re seeing what I saw, in that instant, and depending on how I’ve edited it afterwards you might catch a bit of whatever was going on in my head at the time too.

Picture two people either side of a coin held up between them. One’s looking at the head, the other’s looking at the tail. Neither of them is wrong, they’re just seeing half the thing. A photograph works a bit like that. What you take from it depends on where you’re standing, and more than that, on everything you’re carrying with you before you even looked at it.

What a photo says about me, whether I like it or not

There’s a shot I took at one of the anti-government demonstrations in Nantes a while back. Someone looking at that could reasonably assume I’ve got strong feelings about French politics. Truth is I was about as neutral as it’s possible to be, I was there for the photograph, not the cause. But the viewer fills that gap in with their own assumptions, and there’s not much I can do about that once the shutter’s gone. I do the same thing looking at other people’s work, so I can hardly complain.

Then there’s the question of why I press the shutter at that exact split second and not a second before or after. Cartier-Bresson had a whole theory about the decisive moment. Mine’s less elegant: I try to clear the frame of anything distracting, get my subject exactly where I want them, or just wait until they walk into the right spot. Means I miss plenty of shots. That’s fine, it’s part of the deal. Has it turned me into some miserable perfectionist? No, thankfully. Do I still push for that extra bit of effort anyway? Yes. Not for me particularly, more for whoever ends up looking at the photo afterwards. Call it professional pride if you like. If you’re going to bother doing something at all, you might as well try and do it properly.

Have I actually changed, though?

I’m honestly not sure my subject matter’s moved on as much as I have. Am I still taking roughly the same photos I always did? Probably, yeah. But I’ve picked up plenty along the way, mostly off YouTube if I’m honest. Forty-odd years since I started, and I’m still learning new things every year, more in the last ten than most of the decades before that. I know more about film now, how to shoot it and develop it properly, and I’ve got a lot better at editing. Worth mentioning I trained in desktop publishing back in 2003, of all things. Twenty-odd years ago, Photoshop, Illustrator, QuarkXpress, the works. Feels like a different life.

New gear and different lenses got me properly into wide angle for a while, enough to get it out of my system, or so I thought at the time. I’ll probably go back to it again at some point, knowing me. Either way it changed how I look at a scene, and I know how to use the distortion now instead of fighting it. It gives a photo a different kind of impact, something a bit more unusual than the standard view, and it’s occasionally the thing that makes a client notice a shot.

Confidence has come the boring way, just from doing it over and over. Getting out with the camera is still the only trick that actually works. Some people might say I lean too much on gear. Maybe. But I’ve put the hours in too, and at some point that earns you a bit of trust in your own eye.

Do I take the same photos now as I did in 1987? In some ways, yes, because whatever’s essentially me still comes through in the picture. Back then I was purely obsessed with nailing the exposure, and I didn’t have a fraction of the technique or the visual references I’ve got now. I was also fifteen. I’m over fifty now. The core of it hasn’t moved much. Everything around it has, same as it would for anyone after thirty-odd years.

Thirty years in France

Something people might not know: I’ve lived in France longer than I lived in the UK. Has that got into my photography somewhere? Maybe. Probably, actually.

France gave the world Cartier-Bresson and Doisneau, and their street work still gets me every time, that deceptive simplicity that looks effortless and clearly wasn’t. I’d be lying if I said that hasn’t rubbed off on me. It’s there in how I look at Nantes, walking around with a camera, feeling like they’re somewhere just behind my shoulder. Subject matter shifts country to country too. The UK and France don’t hand you the same photos at all.

Doesn’t stop there either. I’ve picked up just as much from photographers online. Sean Tucker, Thomas Heaton, James Popsys, Mango Street, Peter McKinnon, and Jamie Windsor, that lot have all left a mark one way or another. Not a single Frenchman on that list, which says more about me than about French YouTubers. I speak French all day at work and everywhere outside my front door. By the time I’m home I want my own language back. That’s a me thing, not a them thing.

So does the camera show who I am? Some of it, probably more than I control. My photos say something about how careful I am, or I’m not, about being fair to what’s in front of me, about which places pull at me, Nantes streets, French light, and about which photographers I’ve let get under my skin. I don’t think that adds up to some tidy answer about identity. It’s more that every roll I shoot is a little bit of evidence, and I’m not always the one who gets to read it. Maybe that’s the interesting part. I’ll let you decide what mine says about me.

Also in this series: Part I — An Introduction  ·  Part II — Why Do We Photograph?  ·  Part III — The Emotions of Photography  ·  Part IV — The Art of Storytelling  ·  Part V — Identity & Self-Expression  ·  Part VI — Connection Through Photography  ·  Part VII — The Philosophy of Impermanence  ·  Conclusion

Optimizing Images On-the-Go: Mobile Photography Editing Guide

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Introduction

As the title suggests, I will describe my workflow when out and about. While there are surely other ways to do it, this is my method. It works and has stood the test of time. I usually wander around taking photos, then find a café to sit down and transfer my images to my phone. Everything is better with a nice cup of tea (or coffee) and a piece of cake.

Downloading Photos to Your Phone

Most cameras today can connect to phones via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. My two Fujis (X100F and XT2) and my Canon (6D Mark II) certainly can. I enable Wi-Fi on my camera and connect it directly to my phone. Next, I open the corresponding app—Canon Camera Connect for my Canon and Fujifilm Camera Remote for my Fujis. Each manufacturer provides its own app for Android or Apple devices. Once the camera is connected to my phone, I can import my photographs, selecting the images I prefer.

Sorting Photos

Now comes the fun bit: sorting through all those wonderful shots you took and deciding which ones are worth working on and editing. When I transfer my images from my camera to my phone, the phone creates a folder for the imported photos. Different apps will put them in different places, so I’ll leave that to you to manage. As a rule of thumb, you will see them in the gallery app, which will show you your latest photos.

In the gallery app, you can sort your photos by date taken, favourite images, or the place where the photo was taken.

I will assume you have read my last few articles on Photography 101, composition, and the types of lenses available and how to use them, or at least how I use them. If you haven’t had that pleasure, then go and have a read…

Is the photo worthy of publication, and are you happy with it representing your talent as a photographer? Is the image in focus? Is the image well exposed? Does it fulfil its storytelling role? Will it add to your narrative? Or simply, do you like it enough to want to share it?

Let’s assume that you answered yes. You then get to share your image to Snapseed.

Editing in Snapseed

Starting with Styles:

I like to begin by using the “Portrait” style. It is a preset that gives the photo a subtle glow and some vignette. I just seem to like it, and when you have something you like that flatters your image, you are tempted to stick with it. Most times, this will work a treat on well-exposed images. But let’s imagine that you have exposed for the highlights and that your shadows are “too dark” and you want to bring them up a bit. Then I would go to the “Tools” section and use the Tune Image.

En aparé:

When exposing in digital photography, we expose for the highlights, as it is easy to lighten, or “bring up” the shadows, and we don’t want to “blow out” our highlights and just turn it into a mass of white. In film photography, it’s the opposite. We expose for the shadows, as film has more difficulties capturing details in the shadows especially in a photo with lots of light.

Using the Tools

As I inferred in the title, this is my workflow, and shows the way I use Snapseed. There’s a whole load of tools to stylise your image and to completely change the look of it, but I’m more of a “less is more” disciple when editing. Also most apps out there will have similar tools, so you can carry this knowledge with you across the board.

Crop Tool:

One thing I learnt early one is to KISS, i.e. Keep it simple stupid. Sometimes I will have an element in my photo that distracts from my subject. With the crop tool I can just crop the image and make it disappear. I can also use the crop tool to format the image to fit certain social media post settings. I’m thinking about you Instagram and Facebook. Try searching google for social medi formats and you will be inundated with results.

Healing Tool:

Sometimes the crop isn’t enough to take away distracting elements from our photo. You might have a beautiful shy and want to get rid of that Jumbo Jet in the sky. One way of doing that is to wait until the Jumbo Jet has flown away, but let’s say that it’s too late… Using the healing tool will clone part of the image and replace the Jumbo Jet that just wants to noticed and validated man! To get the best results it’s better to zoom into the image and have a smaller area to work on.

Tune Image:

This is where I do the basic edits, bringing up the shadows or bringing down the highlights. I usually keep it to that. At a push, I will bring up the brightness if the photo has been underexposed. Somtimes I will add a little contrast but I tend not to use the other tools. I don’t want to denautre the photograph.

Rotate Tool:

We should always try and keep our horizons straight, except when making the conscious decision not to. The rotation tool tries to straighten what it thinks should be straight. It generally works quite well, but you do have total control as well as a grid to check the lines in your photo.

Brush Tool:

This is where we can do our burning and dodging. You can choose to highlight a certain area and darken others to emphasise your subject. This brings the photo to life. There are tutorials galore on YouTube that go into more detail than I will in this “basics” article.

Black and White Tool:

Welcome to the world of black and white conversion. It’s a process that a majority of my photography goes through. You can, of course, just use the saturation tool in the “Tune Image” section, and you will get a monochrome image. But you can do so much more.

So, let’s do so much more. The black and white tool offers you some presets which might correspond to your taste. I tend to leave them alone and instead press on the circle that will give a series of colour filters to choose from. This is a direct link back to black and white film photography, and you know how much I love that. I love using the red filter, which, as in film photography, will make your blues darker. This is beautiful for those landscape photos where you want a dark sky to complement those fluffy white clouds.  It’s also my default film simulation on the X100F that I use for all my street photography.  It’s just a look that I fell in love with years ago.
The other common filters are all covered too.

  • Orange:  Orange filters give stronger effects than  yellow filters but are not as bold and dramatic as a red. It is therefore an ideal choice to span the effects given by both these filters.  Blue skies will be recorded in very dark tones on the print, giving bold contrast between the sky and clouds. An orange filter will also penetrate haze and fog. Most flowers will be recorded with a significant difference in tone from the surrounding foliage giving impact and effect.
  • Yellow, the general purpose black and white filter,
  • Green:  When photographing foliage in black and white, a green filter is used almost exclusively.  It lightens green foliage, which is particularly important with dark green leaves which can record very dark without a filter. It therefore gives a more natural, lighter feel to the photograph.
  • Blue: A blue filter is not often associated with black & white photography however, it can really add “mood” to a photograph by increasing the effect of haze or fog.  It also lightens blues and darkens yellows, oranges and reds which helps separation in scenes containing a mix of colours.

Export

You have two options.  You can either press on “done” and Snapseed will record your image in the Snapseed folder and in your gallery in the Album neamed Snapseed, or you you can press “share “and you will be presented with various options on how to share your image, to Instagram, via gmail etc.

Before you do that you can press on settings where you can change the resolution of the image that will be exported.  This can help if you need to reduce the image to take up less space on your phone, or if you’re loading the photo up to a website and you require a “lighter” image.

Conclusion

You now have an idea about how I edit my images on the go, and the more time goes on, the more I do it this way.  Is it the same as Lightroom on my computer?  No.  I can’t have as much control as in Lightroom. I can’t batch edit, I can’t do this or that, but I can manage without, especially on the go.  There are of course other options for photo editing on the go like Lightroom mobile,VSCO, your native photo editor app on your phone.  As I said at the beginning of the article this is how “I” do things.  It works for me.  Try it out and it might just work for you too!

Also in this series: Smartphone Photography  ·  Snapseed Review  ·  Optimizing Images On-the-Go

A piece of timber

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I have recently tried to start learning about making videos. Somebody said that if you have an eye for creating a decent image, then your eye should be OK for filmmaking. There are of course different styles of shots because we are talking about moving pictures. Shots that move, and not just static plans as we would use in photography. We have to set a scene with establishing shots. We can combine medium framed shots and close-ups to keep the narrative going and to show the wood moving through the different machines. I therefore had to understand the manufacturing process. The composition principles that I have talked about in the past are still relevant. So my mindset was, “Why not give it a try. You know about images and how to place subjects in images. Get on to YouTube and start learning about filming . This isn’t Instagram or Tiktok, so you have more time and scope to deliver your message. And if “they” can do it then there is no reason why I can’t!” Nothing left to do but get it done! Do, don’t think…

The Kit – Use what you already have

For the moment I’m using the Canon 6D Mark II with the 24-70mm F4.0 zoom lens. For the editing I’m using CapCut and am slowly getting used to it. It just goes to show that yes, yes indeed, you can teach an old dog new tricks… I can already hear you Dear Reader asking, “But why did you use that camera, and that editing software, Ian?”

The camera

I would say, firstly why not.. But I’ll set out my reasoning. I used the Canon 6D Mark II, because I have it. It has the flippy screen that allows me to see what I’m filming, and I’m only beginning, so no exterior monitors yet. I also know how to use it and like using it. Does it have 4K video, which “they” say is a must nowadays? No it doesn’t, but I’m not in the market for a new camera, so I’ll be using what I have already thank you very much. On a tripod I could do static shots, and panning shots. The idea was to have a series of shots showing the wood in motion going through the manufacturing process.

The lens

Why the 24-70mm lens? Well think back to the articles where I talk about lenses. I said that it was a workhorse and has me covered for “quite a few” situations, and it has image stabilisation. I used my tripod, but there were a couple of handheld shots. It is also a pretty fine lens in its own right. More important to invest in the good glass, than a camera body. What matters is what the client, or audience sees. They’re not doing a mental breakdown of your kit!

CapCut

And why CapCut? Again I would argue yet again, why not! Price of the software was a consideration. As was simplicity. I had tried using Adobe Express, as it is part of my subscription for Lightroom and Photoshop, but it didn’t seem to have the capacity to give me the result that I was after. It did however, introduce me to the concept of the timeline and linking up the various sequences that I had filmed. I had also seen a lot of people waxing lyrical about CapCut, and it just seemed more “accessible” to a newbie like me. There are of course more professional tools available but for the moment seem to have more than I need. I of course went back to Youtube for various tutorials to get me started.

The Brief

So here we go with the actual video. I was told to make a video that would be shown to new employees as part of their integration into the company. Showing the total process will give them a better idea of where they feature in the “bigger picture.” Something dynamic they said. Show the wood moving through the machine they said. So I tried… Then I looked back at my brief from my boss, and realised that I was way too long and had to go back to the drawing board. Ah well. The idea is to show the process of transformation from timber to a door frame that can go to the other plant for assembly.

When you’re doing personal work you have the freedom to do what you want, but work requires sticking to the plan. So stick I did! I showed my boss the first draft, and was told that maybe cut this out, change the speed of the footage, only speed things up for the machines, but leave the shots of people at normal speed. Such and such a shot adds nothing to the story so get rid of it. It felt very much like the process I have when I get back from a shoot. You have to do a first triage of everything, and only have the strict necessary to portray your message.

The creative Process

So I had my brief. I knew the kind of film I was after. Or at least I had a couple of ideas. The basic premise was to be able to follow a piece of timber from being unloaded from a truck, following the piece of timber as it is transformed into a door frame. I had in mind those films I saw as a child showing how something is made, and how we see cans of soup moving along a conveyor belt. For each sequence, I wanted a piece of wood going into a machine, going through the machine, and coming out the other end having been transformed. Starting with an establishing shot, and following more or less closely, with close-ups and medium shots to give an idea of movement…

A short extract from the full video…

Conclusion

So you have now seen the video. All this happened in a week. I went from know very little about making a video, to having a viewable result, and one that tell the story that was asked for. Am I happy with it? I’m certainly not unhappy, and it was interesting to see the thing evolve from a series of moving pictures into something that will be used in training for future employees. Would I have done things differently? Possibly. I might have used the 16-35 F4 lens too, for even wider shots. I know have a little more familiarity with my software and will be spending less time searching for the effects and tools I wish to use. It made me aware of what kit I may be lacking, like mics for sound, but here I didn’t need to record any more sound. I would have liked wheels for my tripod to have a different panel of shots. I maybe should have used my phone and the gimbal to get more variety in my shots. I could have done some time-lapse sequences. But the primordial question would be, “What does it add to my story?” and “Do I need to acquire any kit to do it?” Money talks, and if I can get what I need without spending any more then that has to be a good idea!

What did I take away

I was introduced into a new world of storytelling. I learnt about thinking in a more linear way. Not just thinking about the shot as I would in photography , but about using these shots to make a story. Maybe I already did this with my photo series, but here it became so much more relevant. This might be the main change in my outlook. I already knew about acquiring shots for stills, and doing the same for video seemed to be a natural progression.

What next?

Am I going to get further into this film making lark? By definition yes, because work wants more videos for training people on various machines, and the HR dept have noticed my work, and are getting ideas… Do I want to make videos for me? Yes. It is certainly something I want to look further into. And the more I watch on YouTube the more I am learning, and the more I believe that I can actually do this. Am I going to become a YouTuber? I honestly have no idea, but as in photography, I have to start doing something. People will usually give feedback, and comment sections on YouTube seem to be lees harsh than on Instagram or Twitter. I remember my father making home movies with a cine camera and I can now do the same thing, and edit my footage too. Learning something is never wasted, and it does the brain good to learn new things. Who knows where this can take me? I don’t, but isn’t it interesting to find out?

Manual Mastery – a beginner’s guide Part II

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Aperture.  

The aperture talks about the hole that the light passes through to get to the film, or the sensor, and is measured in “f stops” which will be what you see on your film camera lenses, or what you will see as a value in the viewfinder or on the back of the screen on your digital camera.

On prime lenses you will generally have a value of between f1.8 going up to f16, or even f22 or f32 on your digital lenses.  If you go below F1.8 to f1.4 or f1.2, you have a more expensive lens attached to your camera body.  If you can afford it then why not.

The opening or closing of the aperture blades will affect how much of your photo will be in focus and how much “bokeh” you will be able to get for your image.  You will hear people talking about depth of field (of view).  If I use a large aperture (with a lower f stop number) I will only have a small plane of my image that will be in focus or sharp, and the background will be blurry.  My subject will stand out.  If I use a smaller aperture (a larger number on the f stop setting), I will have a larger plane of my image that will be.

Application

So this exposure triangle thingy. In my last article and above, you have seen the effects that each element can have on your shot.  In photography, as in life, we have to learn how to prioritise.  What is the most important for us?  How will these settings help us get the photo “we” want and not what the camera thinks “we” want?  Do we need to freeze the action?  Do we need the creamy bokeh?  How much light do we have to play with?  What is most important to us?  Modern cameras are pretty good with their automatic settings, but when talking about being mindful in photography, it might just be an idea to keep a minimum of control.

Photography with a manual film camera takes this automation away,and brings us back to basics, hence my referring back to them all the time.  If you can get well exposed shots with a manual film camera, then using digital is a breeze.  In the viewfinder there will be a needle that goes up and down depending on how we change our settings.  As I said earlier the ISO value will be chosen by the film you use, and I explained the different values and how they work.  So that’s one less thing to worry about.  You can’t change your film mid shoot, well you can, but I need a new article to tell you how to do it.  So you’re left with aperture and shutter speed controls.  There’s no LCD screen with a preview, so you have to become an educated guesser.  But if I can, then you can.  This needle, or rather a snazzy modern version, will appear in the viewfinder, and you will see it move as you change your setting.  

Same tool, just a different format.  Or you can cheat, and look at the image preview on the LCD screen.  But that’s cheating, and gets you thinking rather than doing.   

Always bear in mind that as the light changes, then so will your settings to adjust for this changing light.  Just keep an eye on it and be aware as Jean-Claude Van Damme would tell us.

Scenario 1

I need to take photos of little Jimmy’s football match.  I need to have a relatively fast shutter speed (about 1/500th of a second with film as my minimum speed, or up to 1/4000th of a second to capture the action with a digital camera), so shutter speed is my priority.  That can’t move.  So I can play with either my ISO or my aperture to compensate.  I would probably take a 400 ISO (or ASA) film because even in sunlight that would allow me to have everything in focus by using f8, or even f16.  With digital I can really push up my ISO to around 6400 and not have too much visible noise.  The very recent cameras can go even higher without digital noise becoming a problem.

Scenario 2

I want to capture my subject and make the background blurry. Basically bokeh and also low light photography. This could be in street photography, or taking a portrait of somebody where I want the eyes in focus, but not necessarily the ears or back of the head.  I will want to use a large aperture (smallest f stop number, so my priority becomes my aperture setting which I don’t want to change. This will give me that creamy bokeh that everyone raves about.But, with a large aperture I’m going to have lots of light hitting my film.  I will have to bump up my shutter speed, and lower my ISO by using a slower film like 100 ASA or 200 ASA to compensate.  

Scenario 3. 

When ambient light is lower, opening up my aperture, lowering my shutter speed I can compensate for this lack of light.  I might have to use a tripod if there isn’t enough light, or add a flash to my camera to provide my own light.  I could use a higher ISO value and have a film more sensitive to light, but I will get much more grain etc.  Everything is about balance and weighing up what “you” want. 

Conclusion

Talking about film photography and film speeds etc, was very deliberate on my part.  I am convinced that if you can use a manual camera and get good results, then using a digital camera will be so much easier for you.

The exposure triangle is now something that is no longer an enigma.  We have talked about the ISO value, the shutter speed, and the aperture, and how these settings will effect your photograph. The ability to master these three elements gives you creative control over your images, allowing you to expose your image the way “you” want to, and you can go back to the articles about composition with a new eye.  I want you to enjoy your photography, and you now have the necessary tools and knowledge at your disposal to do so.

I would, as always, urge you to take your camera out and shoot.  You can experiment, and practice, and this manual lark will become second nature.  You’ve got this!

Also in this series: Manual Mastery Part I  ·  Manual Mastery Part II

Manual Mastery – a beginner’s guide Part I

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How many times have I seen grown men go to pieces at the suggestion of using manual mode?  Or worse, how many times have I seen other grown men saying that to be a real photographer you have to master manual mode otherwise you’re not a real photographer?  Let me assure you that it’s not as complicated as it sounds.  When I took my first  photography lessons in 1984, I learnt it as a child.  You’ve got this, and I’m here to accompany you through the process.   As the Hitchkiker’s Guide so elegantly says, in comforting letters, “Don’t Panic!”

There are some basic concepts to understand, the first of which is the exposure triangle which we were introduced to in the Photography 101 article. Those three things to consider are, ISO, or film sensitivity, shutter speed, aperture, and balancing them together.

Are you ready?  We’ll go step by step telling you how each of these settings influence your shot, and how we will balance them to create the image that “you” want instead of the image that your “camera” wants to take.  You are the creative boss after all.  And that is the reason that people use Manual Mode.

ISO, or film sensitivity

When I started learning photography in the last century was I was a young boy, yes I was young once, we only had film as a means to capture our images.  You would choose your film in function of the light available.  And when using my film cameras I still work in this way.  100 ASA (which is the same as ISO on modern camera) for sunny conditions, sometimes even 50 ASA, where the film can be used in bright conditions, going through to 200 ASA when it’s cloudy, but with sun shining through, to 400 ASA when overcast, 800 ASA when inside or even 1600 ASA, to 3200 ASA for night photography.  

In the film days we would talk about the presence or absence of grain and this was part of the deal.  You would get less grain the lower down the ASA range you went, and more grain the further up you went.  And this grain was a result of the crystals on the film emulsion, and the chemical developing process.  The choice could be as much about lighting conditions as an artistic decision.  Once the film you chose was in the camera however, it didn’t change until you changed your film.

Nowadays with all this modern technology palaver, you can change this ISO (because it’s digital photography) and change it for each photo.  Unfortunately the higher up you go in these values, the more “noise” you will get.  This digital noise is in a random pattern and totally unlike the grain of film photography.

Shutter speed

Shutter speed, as the words suggest, is about the speed of which the shutter opens  and closes to expose either the film or camera’s sensor.  You see, I told you that this would be simple to understand.  If I can get it, then so can you.  So now we’re on to speed.  When changing the speed of which the light hits the film or the shutter, I can freeze motion, of get a conscious motion blur, where the photo will seem animated.

Let’s say I want to take a photo of somebody running towards me. I will use a higher shutter speed to freeze the action.  Think of sports photography, of catching a  pass of a ball in rugby, or a footballer stopping a ball etc.  Those factors will make or break your image.  Imagine a photo of a football match and you can’t see the ball because it’s going faster than your shutter.  It might not work out for you.  In this situation, on my film cameras I will let the shutter curtain open for just 1/1000th of a second.  Depending on which digital camera I can go as quick as 1/8000 th of a second.

Let’s go to the other extreme.  I’m taking photos of a landscape and I want to show the motion of trees in the wind, the movement of the clouds, or the movement of water. I will use a longer shutter speed, say anything from 1/8th of a second to one second…  The subject will be moving faster than the shutter curtain, and I will get that artistic blur. 

I could be somewhere very dark, so in order to get a clear photo, I will have to let more light through onto my film or sensor.There I might have to use bulb mode in order to leave the shutter curtain for longer than 2 seconds.

For shooting a subject walking I would use 1/125th to 1/250th of a second to freeze the frame.  When using a flash in manual mode, I would aim to be around 1/60th of a second (which depends on your camera’s flash sync value).  When talking about shutter speeds I’m thinking of my film cameras  and bearing in mind that most digital cameras will have wider ranges of shutter speed.  Another tip for you would be to not let your shutter speed go below the number of your focal length (the legendary reciprocal rule).  Let’s say I’m using a 50mm lens, then I would not use a speed under 1/50th of a second, or even 1/60th of a second.  If I have a 200mm lens I would not go under 1/200th of a second. This is to counterbalance the weight of the lens and avoid lens shake.

Conclusion

This article has a lot of information in it and I have decided to separate everything and have a Part II.  In this Part I we have talked about sensitivity to light be that film, and the different ratings of films for various lighting situations.  In digital photography we have a wider range of ISO settings and with the newer cameras, the noise in an ISO 3200 setting will produce a much less grainy image than with film.  However this “grain” can be used as an artistic choice and I will let “you” experiment and see what each film gives you.

We have talked about shutter speed, and the ability to freeze an instant with a higher speed.  And the opposite of this to create motion in our image.

In my next article, we will talk about Aperture and how this effects depth of field and discover the rich creaminess of bokeh.  We will also explore various scenarii and give concrete examples of the effects of this triangle and how to turn it into an advantage.

Also in this series: Manual Mastery Part I  ·  Manual Mastery Part II

Zooming In on Flexibility Part I

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We’ve talked about prime lenses and the difference between primes and zooms.  But we haven’t touched on zooms.  Yet.  But we’re about to enter the dark side.  They have cookies.  So now that we’ve had a cookie, let’s talk about having our cake and eating it.  Metaphorically speaking of course.  

The ability to zoom in on a subject, be it in photography or in conversation has become such an ubiquitous saying.  Zooming in on the details in a conversation.  The image evoked is fair though.  A zoom lens allows us to zoom in visually. 

I might even go as far as to describe them as a guilty pleasure.  That kind of thing that gets results but leaves you feeling a little dirty afterwards, and you feel like you have to justify why you couldn’t just use a purer prime.  Well sometimes you need the versatility of a zoom.  It means you have to take less kit to weigh you down.

This article started as a single piece of writing, and then going more in depth, it has morphed into a series of two articles.  I have a lot of information for you, and it might be easier to digest as a two part story.

The Zoom lens work flow

A zoom lens is more than an investment, it is akin to having four lenses in one support.  One going from 16mm, 24mm, 28mm to 35mm, another from 24mm, to 35mm, to 35mm, to 50mm, and onwards and upwards to 70mm.  Roughly translated you’re getting more glass for your buck, which sounds very enticing.

Advantages and disadvantages

 As in all photography, everything is a matter of balance though.  Ok, you may have more glass, but instead of creamy f1.8, f2.0 creamy bokeh, the trade off will be f4 bokeh, while still nice isn’t as creamy.  You might find f2. Bokeh but you’ll be paying many more bucks.  The difference in price between the Canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM and the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM is around 1000€ which doubles the price of your lens.  This basic economics speaks volumes to me.  

The different focal lengths in just one place allows you to adapt more quickly to a changing situation rather than “faffing” about changing multiple lenses multiple times.  Just one turn of the focal ring, and you’re good to go.  So you’re more available to contemplate a scene and not miss a thing.

They are generally larger than the more subtle nifty fifty, and the general public will take you for a “pro” and wonder why you are pointing a massive obtrusion towards their face.  Some zooms are of course less imposing than others, but you might have to explain more about what you are doing.  

The types of Zooms  

I have talked about the concept of a zoom lens as being a collection of different lenses in just one lens.  In the next article I will describe the example of each zoom I  use, but here I will do the introductions.  We don’t want to get ahead of ourselves.

For me, there are three types of zooms, the wide angle, the general, and the telephoto.  So three types of zoom tend towards three types of application.

The wide angle zoom offers you a wide angle of view, and its downfall of image distortion can be made the most important feature allowing you a means of getting creative in your images.   You can go from those beautiful vistas so beloved of landscape photographers, to those of us who seem to have an obsession with taking close-up photos of bicycles and helping the audience see the world in a more non-conventional or even exciting way.  

The general zoom, is as its name suggests a zoom that has you covered for general scenarii.  The focal lengths are the ones most commonly used.  It’s great in a street photography or documentary environment allowing you to easily glide between wider and narrower views.  Even though the aperture may not be as important as in primes, the image stabilisation helps the photographer when the light becomes more challenging. 

The telephoto zoom allows us to be closer to our subject whilst at the same time being a greater distance.  Useful not only for wildlife photography, but also for sports photography where the players are on the pitch and not the photographer!

Conclusion

Now we are on the same page and have a greater idea of what the whole situation is and how these solutions can help you as a photographer, be that a beginner, an intermediate, or a more advanced photog.  I talk about guilty pleasure, but when push comes to shove, the viewer of your photography doesn’t care.  They care about the image and how it makes them feel.  The fact that we used such and such a  lens is just speaking to them in a foreign language.  We’ve talked about the trade offs but also the benefits of zooms and in my next article I will talk about my set-ups and the experiences I have when shooting with these lenses..

Also in this series: Prime vs Zoom Lenses  ·  Prime Lenses Part I  ·  Prime Lenses Part II  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part I  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part II

Prime Lenses: Elevating Your Photography Beyond the Basics – Part II

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In my last article we explored the prime lenses in my collection and how and why I use them concentrating on my own experience with each one. I started ultra wide and am now going to head towards a narrower field of view. We’ll start with the nifty fifty, go through the Helios 44-2 58mm f2, on to the 85mm f1.8, and end on the Helios 135mm f2.8.

50mm f1.8 – the nifty fifty

Be it a digital lens or one for a film camera, this focal length is considered to be the “standard” to which all the others are compared to. I have already mentioned my initial set from 1987 where the Pentacon 50mm f1.8 was fitted onto my Praktica MTL3. It is the lens with which I learnt photography. Why is it considered the “standard?” Conventional wisdom would suggest that the view offered by the lens is the closest to the human eye. This explains why Robert Doisneau used it extensively in his documentary photography. Henri Cartier-Bresson is known for his ability to capture decisive moments in street photography. The 50mm focal length, with its natural perspective and good depth of field, was perfectly suited to this approach. It is also one of the more simply constructed lenses and yet still offers a great shooting experience be that digital or film shooting.

Helios  44-2 58mm f2.0 

This is one of those lenses that one hears about and has a certain mythology.  It is known  most for its swirly bokeh which you can see in the images in the slideshow below.  I think mine must have cost around 50 Euros so in my mind I was thinking, you can’t go far wrong.  This swirliness adds interest to any photograph be it in an oriental garden, on in portraits.  Just enough to make the viewer have a closer look and fall even further in love with your capture.  It’s an old soviet lens and fairly solid as you can read in the article I wrote about the Helios and the Canon 6D mark II.  It is the first of my “portrait” lenses.

We’ve done the bokeh bit, now let’s talk about the focal length.  When in the studio I will start using my 50mm, but this is always ready in my bag.  But it’s not just a portrait studio lens, and I have used it on outings in Nantes.  As all “telephoto” lenses, it separates the background from the subject, and brings forward the subject to the fore.  I haven’t used it on my Praktica film camera yet and should probably do so very quickly.  It would be a shame not to after all.  As it stands I have to use an adapter for my Canon and another adapter for my Fuji XT2.  With the crop sensor on the Fuji it magically turns into an 85mm equivalent.

Canon 85mm f1.8

This is the most classic portrait lens and allows me to take a step back compared to using the 50mm.  Again, the bokeh on this lens is lovely and so creamy that it could give a rotund older gentleman a heart attack if it were cake.  But it’s not cake, so everything is fine.  When I’m in the studio I can concentrate on the eyes and by the time the portrait gets to the ears we’re in creamy bokeh territory.

However, some photographers will take this lens into the street for street portraits. It’s not a huge lens, and thus less creepy, and allows the photographer to take a step back and still feel close to his subject. That little bit of extra distance makes the whole thing feel less intrusive — better for the subject, and honestly better for me too, since I’m not stood on top of someone with a camera in their face.

Helios 135mm f2.0

This is the largest of my “everyday” primes and back in 1987 it was in my bag to bring the world even closer than I could with the nifty fifty.  I was a beginner back then.  And didn’t realise the potential of telephoto lenses.  The approach is much the same as for the 85mm but allows even more distance, and is great for those intimate shots that can capture the alluring side look.  In landscape it can help you pick out details in the landscape that you can’t get closer to for practical reasons, and bringst that background that much closer to the foreground.  For those of you who don’t like manual focussing, you might want to give this one a miss.  This was a lens from an age before autofocus came along.   However on my Fujifilm XT2 this transforms into a rather snazzy 200mm lens due to it’s APSC sensor and 1.5 crop factor,  which would be a lot cheaper than a more modern equivalent, and with the focus peaking on mirrorless cameras, this can be a very convincing argument.

Conclusion.

Primes can generally be considered to be a higher quality option.  With their simpler constructions, they can offer sharper images   They generally have larger apertures, allowing for ease of use in lower light, and providing that creamy, sexy bokeh that everyone keeps mentioning.  By adding a limitation to the creative process they can help the photographer become a more deliberate and mindful craftsman, and concentrate more on composition.

However, even though individually lighter than most zooms, their collective mass may be more important if you constantly want to have every single option available in your bag.  You will be changing lenses more often, when having more to choose from.  Never forget that you are the person carrying them around.  So choose carefully, be deliberate, and plan ahead.   The results will be worth it! 

Also in this series: Prime vs Zoom Lenses  ·  Prime Lenses Part I  ·  Prime Lenses Part II  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part I  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part II

Prime Lenses: Elevating Your Photography Beyond the Basics – Part I

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Introduction

This article is a follow on from my last article discussing the various merits of zoom and prime lenses.  Today I’m going to try and give a more indepth look into this world of primes.  The lenses that I will be discussing are my own and I have experience with them.  I will be talking more about how “I” use them and how they affect “my” photography, be that the actual photos or the photographic experience.  All the really techy stuff is available on Google;  I’m trying to give you an idea of the sentiments that I have when using the various lenses.  That said, let’s get into the nitty gritty.  I will go through each lens giving you details on how I use it, how “they” say I should use it, and start from the widest to the longest focal length.  This was turning into a longer article than usual, but since there’s a lot to cover, it will become a two part article.  Again mother, I will be talking shop, so consider yourself warned again… Sounds fair?  Let’s go!

Fisheye lens (TT Artisans 7mm f2.0 manual focus lens)

My fisheye lens (7mm so a 11mm full frame equivalent) is the one I use with my Fujifilm XT2.  It is a super wide lens made by TT Artisans, and its main claim to be included in my collection is that it was affordable.  Or at least affordable compared to some of the lenses out there.  However it doesn’t feel cheap on the camera.  It’s manual focus, but I can focus very closely (minimum focus distance is 0.125 metres) and the whole shot will be sharp.  It’s ultra wide so it gives a great level of distortion, which I love, but others might not.  If you can manage to get your horizon level, then you might not get as much distortion as you could by just raising the view 10° higher than the horizon. I love the effect that I can get from it.  It’s definitely a niche lens, and the price I would have to pay for something similar for my DSLR would be silly money.

  • Vintage car
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • Vintage car
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • Standing Stones in Brittany
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • my beautiful niece
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • Nantes Street Photo
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • Le lieu Unique, Nantes
    TT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.
  • Le lieu Unique Nantes
    TTT Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.T Artisans 7mm fisheye on the X-T2. Point it at anything and it becomes interesting. Point it at the wrong thing and it becomes embarrassing.

16mm f2.0 (Fujifilm brand lens with autofocus 24mm equivalent for full frame lenses)

This was the first lens I bought for my Fujifilm XT2.  This 16mm lens’ full frame equivalent would be 24mm.  Why did I buy it?  Well, I already had a 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F, and thought that the difference between 24mm and 35mm would allow me to go wider and get more into my scene whilst avoiding the distortion of the fisheye lens. A particular outing sticks in my mind and was when I used the lens to take photos of the modern architecture on the Île de Nantes.  The wide angle of view (hence the name wide angle lens) was perfect for this kind of street landscape photography.  Would I use it for close-up portraits?  Only if I want to elongate people when taking a shot from low down on the ground looking up.  Would it be good for classic street photography?  Possibly as a compliment lens to my 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F.  Do I regret acquiring it?  Not at all and I particularly like its wide angle of view.

  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • the bird nest building
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • Street Crossing
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.
  • the bird nest building
    Île de Nantes on the 16mm — wide enough to swallow a building whole, tight enough to still feel like you chose the frame.

28mm f2.0 M42 mount lens for the Praktica MTL 3 film camera

I started my photographic journey with this film camera and only bought this lens much later.  I had my 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty) and this was my first venture into a wider lens.  Could I see a massive difference straight away?  No.  But I no longer felt the need to move further back to get the view I wanted into frame.  Moving back with  a camera on your eye and banging into a building and saying sorry to the building is not the way to go, however British you may be.  The Leica Q (a very sexy little thing) uses this 28mm lens and is aimed at street photographers who have enough money to buy a Leica.  The same goes for the Richo GR II but without the need to sell a kidney.  There is a great debate on the Internet talking about the difference between the 28mm and 35mm lens for street photography, which tries to polarise everyone.  I try to stay as neutral as possible in these kinds of controversies but I do use my 35mm lens more.  Do I still like the 28mm format?  Yes.  Is it very different from the 24mm format?  Not hugely, but I tend to worry less about distortion .  I should probably go out and run a roll of film and see how I feel afterwards.  I remember the need to go in close to avoid capturing too much in the frame with this lens, but that is not a factor that could deter me from using it.

  • Imposing doorway, Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Street Light, Place Graslin, Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Street Photo, Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Street Photo, Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Telegraph wires
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.
  • Notre Dam de Bon Port, Nantes
    28mm on film, 2017. Slightly wider than I expected, considerably more interesting than I deserved.

23mm f2.0 (X100F lens equivalent to the 35mm for a full frame camera)

The 35mm lens is the classic for street and documentary photography.  It was the lens used by a majority of newspaper photojournalists in the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s.  This might explain its influence on my own photography.  I remember when the Independent first came out and the high quality of photojournalism.  I think that if Fujifilm decided on the 35mm equivalent for their fixed lens cameras then there’s probably a very good reason for it.  Through my use of the X100F for street and documentary photography I have become very accustomed to the view it gives me of the world.  It’s not just for the street though.  Even as a sole travel lens it allows me to capture details of a trip, as well as wider views to tell my story in more detail. It’s brilliant as a lens for environmental portraits and is wide enough to always give contect in the frame to the main subject.  If you try to do close up photography with portraits you might notice some distortion but if that happens just move ever so slightly backwards, reframe, and the problem should no longer be one.

  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • Two friends, St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • Two friends, St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • St Brevin les Pins
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • House in Saint Brevin
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • Two Friends
    The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.
  • The 35mm equivalent — the one I keep coming back to. Close enough to be present, wide enough to leave room for the world to breathe.

In my next article, we will go higher up the focal lengths and discuss the narrowing field of view that they offer and explore how they bring the background forwards. As for this article, all the information laid out is equally as valid for film or digital photgraphy.

Also in this series: Prime vs Zoom Lenses  ·  Prime Lenses Part I  ·  Prime Lenses Part II  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part I  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part II

Frame It Right: The Art of Composition in Photography Part IV

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In my previous articles (Part I, Part II, Part III), we’ve embarked on a journey to understand the basics in photography. I have talked about exposure, set out some of the “rules” of composition, and even delved into the world of colour theory. Today, I’d like to introduce you to the rule of odds and the rules of space, two fundamental elements that will take your photography to the next level.

Before we talk about these new concepts, let me reiterate the importance of building a solid foundation. Just as we did with framing, negative space, and colour theory, it’s crucial to master each concept before moving on to the next. Take your time to learn and apply these principles in your photography journey. The other articles will stay up, and you can read them at your leisure.

The Rule of Odds in Photography

The rule of odds is a composition guideline that suggests using an odd number of subjects or elements in your frame, typically three or five, rather than even numbers. Why? Because odd numbers tend to create a more balanced and visually pleasing composition.

When you use the rule of odds, you create a natural focal point within your photograph. Our eyes are drawn to the centre subject, and the uneven arrangement adds a sense of harmony and intrigue to the image. The result? A more captivating and dynamic photo that engages your viewers. It’s all about balance.


Rules of Space: Balance and Direction

Now, let’s look at the rules of space. This concept involves how you position elements and subjects within your frame to achieve balance and direct the viewer’s gaze. It leaves space for the subject and can be used in multiple ways as a storytelling tool. It can also be used in conjunction with the other composition techniques that I have talked about in my previous articles.

Tips

Think outside the frame. What is going on outside the frame becomes as important as what is oing on inside the frame. Let’ take the picture of the guitarist. Who is he looking at? What’s going on outside the frame? Is there an audience? Where is the audience? Using rules of space the viewer will more curious and be more engaged in the photo.

Conclusion

One can talk about composition and the effect it has on photography till the cow come home. People will always bring up “composition” and will always tell you how “they” would have done it differently. In these four articles you will now know what they are talking about and be able to decide for yourself. In absolute terms, “your” photographs are about what “you” saw, and only “you” can see that. But keep the rules that we have discussed in the back of your mind, and take your photograph with purpose and being conscious about what you are doing. Mindfulness is the key.

My next article will talk about the differences between 35mm film photography and medium format photography. For film enthusiasts or anyone else who is curious you will be entering into a new world. There are, of course, trade offs between each format, and we will discover them. Maybe you’ll be bitten by the Medium Format bug too… As always Dear Reader, I appreciate your enthusiasm, and I look forward to our next exploration together. Until then, happy shooting!

Also in this series: Part I — Rule of Thirds, Leading Lines & Symmetry  ·  Part II — Framing, Negative Space & Colour Theory  ·  Part III — Pattern, Scale & Depth

Canon AE-1 Program – A Classic Film Camera for Timeless Photography

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I picked up a Canon AE-1 Program a while back, mostly out of curiosity. It came out in 1981, it’s a 35mm SLR, and it’s probably the most common “serious” film camera you’ll find in a charity shop or on a French brocante table for silly money. Mine’s been through a lot of rolls since, and I still reach for it more than I expected to.

The thing that sold me was how it handles exposure. In Program mode it sets shutter speed and aperture itself, so if I just want to point it at something and not think, I can. That’s handy on days when I’ve got my hands full and don’t want to fuss with settings. But it’s not just an automatic box: switch it over and you get full manual control, plus shutter priority and a bulb mode for long exposures. I’ve used the bulb mode for a couple of night shots and it did exactly what I needed, nothing more complicated than holding the shutter open and counting.

Build-wise, it’s a metal body, and it feels like it. Solid, a bit heavy, no creak in the hinges. There’s something about handling an old metal camera after a run of plastic ones that just feels right, even if that’s pure nostalgia talking. The viewfinder is bright and clear with a split-image prism in the middle, so focusing manually is quick once you know what you’re looking for. There’s a hot shoe if you want to bolt on a flash, and a self-timer, which I mostly use for the odd self-portrait when there’s nobody around to hand the camera to.

For the record, here’s what you’re working with:

  • 35mm SLR film camera
  • Program, shutter priority, and manual modes
  • Metal body
  • Split-image prism viewfinder
  • Hot shoe for flash
  • Self-timer
  • ISO 12 to 1600
  • Shutter speeds from 1/1000 down to 30 seconds
  • Aperture range f/1.2 to f/16, depending on the lens

Only real gripe: because it’s so well known and well liked, prices have crept up over the years. It’s not the bargain it once was. That’s the price of being a favourite, I suppose.

Would I recommend it? Yes, easily, whether you’re starting out with film or you’ve been shooting for years and want something you can trust without thinking too hard about it. I’ve had mine for a good while now and it hasn’t let me down once. The way it moves between automatic and manual without any fuss means I can shoot however the moment demands, and that’s really all I want from a camera.

Here’s a straight scan next to a version with a few basic tweaks in Lightroom, nothing heavy. Curious what you make of the difference.

The idea here is to give you a raw image from the film scans and show you what you can get with a minimum of fuss in Lightroom with some very basic edits. What do you think?

And below is a small selection from the last roll I developed, shot in 2022 on the streets of Nantes. More to come, I’m sure, now that I’m back into film properly.