The Enduring Elegance of Vintage Cameras: A Personal Journey

I often find myself discussing the concept of “vintage” with my father during our phone calls. I live in France, while my parents are in Northumberland. The term means different things to different generations. For my 25-year-old son, vintage clothing is anything from the 90s, he even wears a few of my old sweaters from that era. At 52, I’m starting to think of myself as slightly vintage too. And to my 15-year-old daughter, my father, who grew up during the war, must seem positively ancient.

A camera from the 1990s feels relatively modern to me, while those from the 70s and 80s seem older but not quite ancient. Using these older cameras forces me to slow down and be more deliberate. Each shot becomes a considered act rather than a reflex, and there’s something satisfying about that slower pace, even if the cameras themselves aren’t the latest technology.

My own “vintage collection” began with an SLR from the 1980s: an East German Praktica MTL3 that served me faithfully until 2009. After it finally gave up, I quickly replaced it with another. From there, I explored more iconic cameras from the 1970s and 1980s, back when they were still relatively affordable, before the hipsters discovered film photography and the prices started rising.

My exploration didn’t stop there. I began to seek out cameras from the 1960s and even the 1950s. The oldest camera in my collection dates back to 1949! It’s quite vintage, even for me, though perhaps not so much for my father. Each piece is a link to a past era, a tactile connection to history that digital tools can’t replicate.

There was a time during the digital age when people tried to recapture the film aesthetic, and right on cue, apps like Hipstamatic, Instagram, and VSCO turned up. They embraced the nostalgic look of film, but it’s never quite matched the real thing.

Which led me to a simple thought: if I wanted that film aesthetic, why not use actual film and cameras from the eras I admire? I’ve always been drawn to old things, having loved exploring a special drawer at my grandmother’s house filled with genuine relics. My fascination with older technology, particularly when it’s still functional, has never gone away.

So just because something’s old doesn’t mean it doesn’t still work, and it might open up a whole world you didn’t know existed. It can be a bit quirky, but once you get past that, the world’s your oyster.

Choosing the Right Film Format: 35mm vs. Medium Format Photography

I shoot both 35mm and medium format, and people occasionally ask which one they should pick up first. Here’s my honest answer, with the two side by side so you can see the difference for yourself rather than take my word for it.

35mm is the format everyone starts with. It’s the standard: easy to find, easy to get developed, and every camera shop from here to Nantes has a fridge full of it. Medium format is a different animal entirely, and the differences show up the moment you hold a negative up to the light.

The most obvious one is detail. A medium format negative is so much bigger than a 35mm frame that it just holds more information, more texture, finer lines, without trying. If you want a print that rewards someone standing close up and looking hard, medium format gets you there faster.

Then there’s the shape of the thing. 35mm gives you the familiar 3:2 rectangle. A lot of medium format cameras, mine included, shoot square, 6×6. That square forces you to compose differently. You can’t lean on the usual rectangle instincts. Vivian Maier shot almost entirely on a TLR in square format, and it’s part of why her street work looks the way it does, different balance, different eye. I won’t pretend I’ve got her eye, but the square format does make you slow down and actually think about balance instead of defaulting to the rule of thirds out of habit.

Depth of field is shallower on medium format too, which is handy for portraits or any shot where you want the subject to properly separate from the background. Get the composition right and your subject sits there against a soft blur that 35mm makes you work much harder for.

Size and weight go the other way. 35mm cameras are small and light, which matters when you’re moving fast on the street. Medium format bodies, mine especially (see my Mamiya C220 review for exactly how much of a beast it is), are bulkier and heavier, and that changes how you shoot. Less grab-and-go, more plan-and-wait.

Cost is the other real difference. 35mm and its development are cheap. Medium format isn’t. Shoot 6×6 and you get twelve frames a roll, not thirty-six, which changes your relationship with the shutter button fast. If you get twitchy shooting 35mm, wait until you’re down to twelve frames and every one of them costs real money. That said, no shot is wasted, even the ones that don’t work teach you something, and if you’re after gallery prints or paid work, the extra cost of medium format tends to pay for itself in the result.

35mm also just moves faster in daily use, candid shots, quick reactions, film that’s easy to get processed anywhere. Medium format asks you to slow down and actually think through a shot before you take it, which some days I love and some days I find a proper faff.

Below is the same rough scene shot on both: a 35mm frame on the Pentax ME Super with a 50mm lens, and a medium format frame on the Mamiya C220 with an 80mm lens (roughly equivalent field of view). Have a look and decide for yourself which you prefer.

The 35mm frame, shot on the Pentax ME Super. The standard format, the one everyone knows.

The square 6×6 frame, shot on the Mamiya C220. Judge the difference for yourself.

Same rough field of view, 50mm on the 35mm body, 80mm on the medium format body, and you can already see how differently the square frame reads next to the rectangle.

If you want to go further into medium format, a Mamiya C220 review is coming, where I’ll go into what it’s actually like carrying that thing around Nantes for a day.

There’s no correct answer here, whatever the camera forums tell you. I use both, for different reasons, on different days. 35mm when I want to move fast and not think too hard. Medium format when I’ve got the time to plan a shot properly and want the negative to reward it. Pick whichever one matches how you actually like to work, not which one sounds more serious.

Canon AE-1 Program – A Classic Film Camera for Timeless Photography

I picked up a Canon AE-1 Program a while back, mostly out of curiosity. It came out in 1981, it’s a 35mm SLR, and it’s probably the most common “serious” film camera you’ll find in a charity shop or on a French brocante table for silly money. Mine’s been through a lot of rolls since, and I still reach for it more than I expected to.

The thing that sold me was how it handles exposure. In Program mode it sets shutter speed and aperture itself, so if I just want to point it at something and not think, I can. That’s handy on days when I’ve got my hands full and don’t want to fuss with settings. But it’s not just an automatic box: switch it over and you get full manual control, plus shutter priority and a bulb mode for long exposures. I’ve used the bulb mode for a couple of night shots and it did exactly what I needed, nothing more complicated than holding the shutter open and counting.

Build-wise, it’s a metal body, and it feels like it. Solid, a bit heavy, no creak in the hinges. There’s something about handling an old metal camera after a run of plastic ones that just feels right, even if that’s pure nostalgia talking. The viewfinder is bright and clear with a split-image prism in the middle, so focusing manually is quick once you know what you’re looking for. There’s a hot shoe if you want to bolt on a flash, and a self-timer, which I mostly use for the odd self-portrait when there’s nobody around to hand the camera to.

For the record, here’s what you’re working with:

  • 35mm SLR film camera
  • Program, shutter priority, and manual modes
  • Metal body
  • Split-image prism viewfinder
  • Hot shoe for flash
  • Self-timer
  • ISO 12 to 1600
  • Shutter speeds from 1/1000 down to 30 seconds
  • Aperture range f/1.2 to f/16, depending on the lens

Only real gripe: because it’s so well known and well liked, prices have crept up over the years. It’s not the bargain it once was. That’s the price of being a favourite, I suppose.

Would I recommend it? Yes, easily, whether you’re starting out with film or you’ve been shooting for years and want something you can trust without thinking too hard about it. I’ve had mine for a good while now and it hasn’t let me down once. The way it moves between automatic and manual without any fuss means I can shoot however the moment demands, and that’s really all I want from a camera.

Here’s a straight scan next to a version with a few basic tweaks in Lightroom, nothing heavy. Curious what you make of the difference.

The idea here is to give you a raw image from the film scans and show you what you can get with a minimum of fuss in Lightroom with some very basic edits. What do you think?

And below is a small selection from the last roll I developed, shot in 2022 on the streets of Nantes. More to come, I’m sure, now that I’m back into film properly.