Choosing the Right Film Format: 35mm vs. Medium Format Photography

Introduction In the world of film photography, the choice of film format can significantly impact the results you achieve. Whether you’re an aspiring street photographer or simply an enthusiast looking to explore the world of analog photography, the decision between 35mm and medium format can be crucial. This article explores the major differences between these two formats, helping you along on your photographic journey. As we dive into this discussion, it’s essential to understand how the choice of format can influence your work.

1. Understanding the Basics Let’s start by establishing a foundation. 35mm photography is the more common format, known for its accessibility, ease of use, and widespread availability. It is the standard format of film. However, medium format photography offers distinct advantages worth exploring.

2. The Key Differences

Image Quality and Resolution: The most noticeable difference between medium format and 35mm photography lies in image quality and resolution. Medium format film, with its significantly larger negative size, captures an significant level of detail and clarity. The larger negatives provide ample room for precise rendering of textures, fine lines, and intricate patterns. This translates to stunningly sharp and highly detailed images, ideal for both professional work and fine art photography. If you’re aiming for prints that capture every nuance, medium format is the way to go.

Aspect Ratio: Another significant difference is the aspect ratio. 35mm film typically yields images with a 3:2 aspect ratio, while medium format cameras typically offer a square 1:1 aspect ratio. The square format can be a creative boon, pushing photographers to rethink composition. It forces a balance between the vertical and horizontal aspects of your subject, a characteristic reminiscent of the iconic street photographer Vivian Maier, who frequently used a TLR camera. The square format encourages unique framing and adds an artistic challenge to your photography.

Depth of Field: Medium format allows for a shallower depth of field compared to 35mm. This means that it’s easier to achieve that sought-after background blur or bokeh, perfect for portrait and street photography. With a well-executed composition, your subject can pop against a beautifully blurred backdrop, making them the focal point of the image.

Size and Weight of Equipment: In terms of portability, 35mm cameras have the upper hand. They are compact, lightweight, and ideal for street photography where you need to be quick on your feet. Medium format cameras, on the other hand, tend to be bulkier and heavier due to the larger film format and the associated optics. This makes them better suited for planned shoots where image quality takes precedence over convenience.

Cost of Film and Development: While 35mm film and development are more budget-friendly, medium format film comes at a higher cost. When using the 6×6 format you will only have 12 images per roll of film. This of course makes every shot count. If you are stressed out about messing up a shot on 35mm film then your anxiety will shoot up to lunar levels with only 12 shots. But remember what I have said earlier, no shot is wasted and every shot is a learning experience. The enhanced image quality, detail, and artistic potential make medium format film worth the investment for those who prioritize the final result over the upfront cost. If you’re planning to produce gallery-worthy prints or pursue a professional career, the expense can be justified.

Flexibility and Convenience: 35mm cameras are known for their flexibility and convenience, making them well-suited for capturing quick shots or candid moments. They’re also readily available, and film processing is more accessible. In contrast, medium format cameras require a more methodical approach, ideal for planned and deliberate photography. The process is slower, encouraging you to carefully consider each shot and compose it meticulously. This added effort can lead to more thoughtful and deliberate photographs.

3. Street Photography with the Pentax ME Super and TLR Influence Vivian Maier, a renowned street photographer, serves as an inspiring example of how camera choice can shape your photographic style. Maier favored the TLR camera, a medium format model known for its distinctive qualities. Her use of the square format and unique perspective have left an indelible mark on street photography.

I want you to think about the fact that a TLR is hanging around your neck at tummy level or even waist level, so the way of looking at your subject will automatically affected too.

If you’re looking to explore street photography with a Pentax ME Super, remember that the compact 35mm format offers its advantages for candid, on-the-go shots. However, Maier’s work reminds us that the choice of equipment is a personal one, and there’s no one-size-fits-all answer.

4. The Mamiya C220 Review: A Medium Format Marvel As we venture further into the world of medium format, the Mamiya C220 beckons. Just as Vivian Maier chose a TLR for her street photography, other photographers have found success with medium format cameras like the Mamiya C220. In my upcoming review, I’ll explore the features, benefits, and considerations of this remarkable medium format camera, guiding you towards your next photography adventure.

The Induction to a Higher Level of Photography When you make the transition from 35mm to medium format, you’re stepping into a higher echelon of photography. If you think that 35mm film is great, you’ll be enthralled when you see your images taken by a medium format camera. The level of detail and depth of field that medium format offers is simply unmatched. It’s like upgrading from a standard screen to 4K resolution for your photography. Every detail comes to life, and the depth of field adds a whole new dimension to your work. It’s a revelation that will leave you wondering why you didn’t make the leap sooner.

The 35mm format photo captured on the Pentax MS Super. The “standard” format of film photography. The one we all know.

The square format common to much medium format photography with a 6×6 format. I’ll let you look at the differences for yourself.

The lenses for each shot was a 50mm lens for the 35mm format film photo, and the 80mm mm lens for the medium format photo. However, both lenses are equivalents.

Conclusion In closing, remember that there’s no definitive answer to the question of 35mm vs. medium format. It’s a matter of personal preference and artistic vision. Both formats have their merits, and your choice should align with your goals and the style of photography you wish to pursue.

Stay tuned for the Mamiya C220 review, where I’ll delve deeper into the world of medium format photography, and consider the impact of the TLR on your creative journey.

The journey of film photography is full of exciting choices, from your film format to your camera model. Vivian Maier’s legacy reminds us that every camera has its unique personality and that your creative vision should be the driving force behind your choices. Whether you decide on 35mm or medium format, your camera is your artistic tool, and the world of film photography is yours to explore.

Why the Pentax ME Super Is the Perfect First Film Camera (Even in 2026)

The Pentax ME Super is one of the finest 35mm SLRs ever made. Small, quiet, and genuinely capable; it’s still available on the used market for a fraction of what most beginners spend on their first camera. If you’re getting into film photography, it belongs on your shortlist.

What It’s Actually Like to Shoot

Mine came from Robert with two lenses already attached. I trusted him, put some film in, and tried it out. Some of the photos worked and some didn’t — but that was about getting used to the camera, not the camera failing. The more I used it, the more it became second nature. It has the same feel as my X100F, which is a high compliment: a camera that stops being something you operate and becomes something you just use.

I’ve shot with it on the streets of Nantes and taken it into the mountains. In the mountains especially, I was impressed — I could just put the film in and take photos. No fussing, no second-guessing the settings. A 24mm from my cousin in the States, a 28mm and 50mm that came with the camera from Robert. Between those three focal lengths, it covers everything: architecture, people, light, the kind of landscape you find when you’re walking a city and the streets go quiet.

The shutter isn’t noisy. It’s not silent either — this is a 1980 SLR, not a rangefinder — but it doesn’t announce itself. The Nikon FE is louder; that’s the sound of different machinery. The ME Super just gets on with it.

The Films Worth Putting Through It

Most of what goes through mine is HP5+ or Fomapan, and the ME Super handles both well.

HP5 is the obvious choice for a camera like this — fast enough to keep pace with aperture priority in unpredictable light, forgiving of the exposure errors you’ll make while learning to trust the meter, and consistent enough that you stop thinking about it. That’s a compliment. The best film stock for a camera you’re still getting to know is one that gets out of the way. And with a top shutter speed of 1/2000th, you can shoot HP5 at box speed and still open the lens right up in decent light — something a lot of cameras at this price point can’t offer.

Fomapan earns its place differently. It’s cheap enough that you stop treating frames like they matter, which turns out to produce better shooting habits than expensive film does. Fomapan 400 in particular has a quality to it — grainier than Ilford, lower in contrast, a little rougher around the edges — that suits a camera from 1980. They feel like they belong together. Fomapan 100 wants better light, but when it gets it, the results are clean and sharp in a way that doesn’t announce itself.

The two together cover most situations without requiring much thought about which to reach for.

ME Super vs. the Standard ME

The two cameras are nearly identical. Same compact body, same K-mount, same aperture-priority automation, same viewfinder. If you handed both to someone who didn’t know what they were holding, they’d be hard pressed to tell them apart.

The difference is that the ME locks you into aperture priority entirely. The Super adds manual mode — two small buttons that step the shutter speed up or down — but that’s not really why you’d choose it. Most of the time, you won’t touch those buttons. The meter is good enough that you don’t need to.

The reason to get the Super over the ME is for the moments when the meter gets it wrong, or when you’re shooting something unusual enough that you want to override it rather than argue with it through exposure compensation. It’s a fallback, not a feature. But it’s a useful one to have, and since the two cameras sell for similar prices, there’s no real reason to choose the more limited version.

If you know for certain that you want a point-and-shoot experience and nothing else, the ME does that. For everyone else, the Super is the sensible default.

Buying Used: What to Check

These cameras have been around for over 40 years and most copies you’ll find have lived some kind of life. The things worth checking are specific.

Battery corrosion is real. My cousin sent me his old Pentax K1000 from the States — same era, same dependency on small cells — and the battery compartment corrosion meant it went straight into a drawer waiting for repair. I kept the 24mm lens. The ME Super takes two LR44 cells in the base; check the contacts before you commit. Light oxidation can be cleaned. Green crust is a different problem.

Mirror foam is the other common issue — the light-sealing foam around the mirror box breaks down over time into a sticky residue. Open the back and look. If you see black gunk around the mirror frame, budget for a re-foam job. DIY kits exist; a repair shop will charge €20–40. It’s not a reason to walk away, but it’s worth knowing about going in.

Check the shutter at all speeds in manual mode, and look at the door seals along the back for crumbled foam — that’s light leaks on your first roll.

A working body in decent condition currently sells for around €70–130, with the sweet spot around €80–100. With a 50mm lens: €85–130. Serviced or near-mint examples from Japan go higher — €150 and above. Parts-only bodies start around €15. Anything listed as “untested” is a gamble worth skipping unless the price reflects the risk.

A Note on Batteries

One thing worth knowing before your first outing: the ME Super is almost entirely battery-dependent. Without working LR44 cells, you have exactly one shutter speed — a mechanical 1/125 failsafe. In good light with the right aperture, that can save a situation. In anything trickier, you’re stuck.

Carry a spare pair. They’re cheap, they last a long time under normal use, but running out mid-shoot on a cloudy afternoon in a city you’ve walked an hour to reach is frustrating in a way that’s easily avoided.

Technical Specifications

  • Shutter speed: 4 seconds to 1/2000th, plus Bulb
  • ISO range: 12–1600
  • Exposure control: Aperture priority (with manual override)
  • Viewfinder: 0.9x magnification, 95% coverage
  • Other: self-timer, cable release socket, exposure compensation (±2 stops), K-mount lens compatibility
Post Scriptum

If the Pentax ME Super has caught your attention, I’d recommend checking out my other posts on classic film cameras like the Olympus Pen EE S (Aug 9, 2023) or my reflections on the lasting appeal of film photography in In Defense of Film (Aug 23, 2023). For a more in-depth look at the Pentax in action, mark your calendars for Capturing the Essence of Nantes: A Street Photography Journey with the Pentax ME Super and Kentmere 100 Film (coming Nov 17, 2023). And for those curious about the Fujifilm X100F, you can preview how it compares in Seeing the World Through 35mm: Street Photography with the Fujifilm X100F (Jun 21, 2023). A more detailed comparison between these two cameras is also coming this November!