Frame It Right: The Art of Composition in Photography Part I


In my last article we talked about exposure, and balancing the elements that form the “exposure triangle”, i.e. the sensitivity of the film that we’re using, of the ISO setting on our camera sensor, the shutter speed, i.e. how long we let the light hit the film, or camera sensor, and aperture, i.e. the size of the hole that light comes through measured in F-Stops.  When these elements are in perfect osmosis, we should get a decently exposed photograph. 

Introduction to composition principles

Now we shall take this knowledge and build upon it with notions of composition, i.e. how we will organise the elements in our photograph.  Sometimes we have control of where these elements are, for example when creating a still life image.  Other times we have no control whatsoever and just have to move ourselves instead.  The way we do this is by thinking about our “Composition.”

As humans we are all guided by rules, some universally moral, some defined by the country we live in (like in France where they seem to be forbidden to make a decent up of tea), and Art is no exception.  There are rules in Art that make an image pleasing naturally to the eye, and, believe it or not, these “rules” have been around for a long time.  Now I hear you little rebels sat at the back of the classroom near the radiator saying how you don’t live by rules, and that you break every rule in the book.  And I have no problem with that.  I would however suggest you learn the “rules of composition” first and then, and only then break them knowingly.

Photography is art made with light, and the first photographers were heavily influenced by the art and paintings in the local Art Galleries.  They therefore had a very “classical” notion of composition.  I want you to imagine those massive oil paintings in a gold frame showing a Victorian gentleman looking over the top of a waterfall, framed by the forests, and still looking so dapper.

The Rule of thirds

This is one the first things that people will talk about when talking about composition.  The idea, as the name suggests is to divide a photo equally into thirds horizontally and vertically, and put the point of interest (subject) where the lines intersect.  Or you could have a landscape photo where sky will take up two thirds of the photograph and the foreground the other third.  In editing software, when framing you shot they will put a three by three grid on your photo automatically.  Some digital cameras allow the use of this grid inside the viewfinder.  When taking a portrait you would ideally have the eye where the lines cross.  Yes Ian, but this has been done, done, and done again, and has become a cliché I hear you say.  Possibly, but it works mate!  Don’t knock it.  As I said earlier, learn the rule, master using the rule, and then you might consider breaking the rule, but it will be a conscious decision and above all, deliberate.  But it will permit a pleasing and natural result.

Leading Lines and Perspective

Leading lines are lines that lead the eye into the photograph, turning it into something dynamic.  The lines will converge on a certain point in the image, which, if you want, can be on the grid that I described in the last section.  This point is the vanishing point, and give geometrical forms to your image, and can lead to the subject of you photo.  When using straight lines,you can emphasis to shapes in architecture and acquire a very “graphic” image.  Using a wide angled lens or even a fish eye lens will emphasize these line even further and the distortion of these lenses will add even more interest to your image.  I will talk about the most common lenses in a future article.  We’re not there yet. The lines don’t have to be straight, they can be curved or S shaped.  Think of a winding road in the countryside.  Whichever version you use, there will be a feeling of being drawn in to the scene. 

In the first photograph of the original Pegasus Bridge all the lines converge to a central point with a person standing which gives us an idea of the scale of the bridge.  These straight geometrical lines give a feeling of stability and solidity. 

In the second photograph, we can see an image that uses an S curve, and as you can see, the effect is totally different.  More subtle, but they eye is still drawn in to the image.

 Leading lines can appear in nature and in the landscape.  Look at the way that the tree line and lines in the mountains converge on a specific part of the photograph and show the different layers of the photograph. 

I seem to use them in quite a few of my photos, and with time, you won’t even have to seek them out.  You will be lead…

Symmetry in photography

In last week’s article we talked about exposure and how it is a balancing act between the three elements: film sensitivity, aperture, and shutter speed. We can find this symmetry in our compositions too. 

Symmetry in photography is a fundamental principle that enhances the visual impact of images. It involves balancing elements on both sides of a central axis or point. There are various types of symmetry, including horizontal, vertical, radial, and bilateral, each offering unique opportunities for creating appealing compositions. Symmetry naturally draws the viewer’s eye, adds stability, and is particularly useful in architectural, landscape, and macro photography. However, breaking symmetry with a contrasting element can introduce tension and creativity. By framing subjects thoughtfully, adjusting camera angles, and recognizing symmetry in both natural and man-made subjects, photographers can master this powerful tool for captivating compositions.

In summary, symmetry in photography is about creating balance and harmony through the arrangement of elements within the frame. It provides a sense of order, highlights patterns, and engages viewers, while also allowing for creative deviations when necessary to convey a specific message or emotion.

Conclusion

Firstly let’s not be fixated by these rules. I was right to describe them as “guides” to composition.  Talking about them is fine, but we have to put them into action.  Don’t try to do them all at once.  Take one rule.  Look at it closely.  Think how can I use this one rule?  How can I master it, or at least take it on board.  When you think that is is engrained into your mind, then start using a different concept.  I can’t stress that when learning, take your time.  Let the concept become second nature.   

There will be occasions when you feel that you are no longer advancing in your composition, but stick at it.  You will not obtain mastery after just one outing.  I’ve been doing this for 40 years and am still learning something new each time I go out with my camera.  People talk about being on a photographic journey, and that is a very good way of looking at it.  You can’t run before you can walk.  Don’t let yourself be overwhelmed by what you might see on Instagram, or even on this blog.  We are all at different places on this path.

In next week’s episode we will explore framing, negative space, colour theory, texture.  There will be a third article to cover pattern and repetition, scale and proportion, depth and layering.  There are so many points to talk about in composition that we may even have a fourth article but we’re not there yet! 

See you next week.  Until then, keep shooting!

Photography 101: Mastering the Fundamentals


Get the basics and the basics will get you

Hello Dear Reader,

I have decided to follow somebody’s advice and write a series of articles purely about photography.  You have already seen how photography has changed my life, and maybe you want it to change yours.  This is not a course, and any advice given here is from my own perspective. My goal is just to provide a useful point of reference for you.   It is what has helped me to become the photographer that I am today.  Or at least the guy with a camera that writes all this stuff for you to read and consume.  I will work on the assumption that you a complete neophyte and know nothing about photography and cameras, old and modern, and that you wish to use a “real” camera rather than your phone to capture the world around you.  Does that sound fair?

I have had people come up to me and ask, so Ian, what this photography lark all about then?  I want to produce images like you, can you tell me how to go about it?  And now I feel my imposter syndrome kicking into overdrive!

Well, Dear Reader, you will have to acquire a camera!  I know it sounds daunting, and if you look at the prices of a Leica, you might well keel over from a heart attack.  Now, I’m not bashing Leica, since they are a manufacturer that make beautiful and rather sexy cameras, but they do cost a bit.  You might not want to have to sell a kidney just yet.  Save that for when you want to try film photography…

I would say any camera within your budget is a good start. I would also say that anything that allows you to control everything manually is an even better start.  Go film or digital.  Either will do, and any advice I might dare to put out there will apply to both formats.  Just ask yourself do I want to appear to be a hipster and go Canon AE1, with rolls of film, do I want to be trendy and go with the Fuji Film X100F, or do I want the statement piece DSLR?  I honestly don’t care.  The camera is merely the tool that will allow you to capture those images that you’re dreaming about.  I have written a couple of camera reviews so you can check those out, and I will be writing more in the future, so you will have a better idea for choosing. If you are interested in more camera reviews I can see what can be done, but I would only review cameras that I am familiar with and that I use, or have used.

Exposure

I’m going to go with decent exposure here, because indecent exposure will get you into trouble.  Photography is all about light, and how the light will affect and react with the film or sensor in your camera.  Too much light and your photograph will be “over exposed” and therefore too bright.  Too little light, and your photograph will be “under exposed” and therefore too dark. You can however, use this under or over exposure to highlight various parts of the scene you are photographing. People talk about exposing for the highlights or shadows…

How do I control the light hitting my film or sensor?

Everything is about balance, and balancing out the element in the exposure triangle.  Changing one element will have an effect on the other two elements. This is shown in the famous exposure triangle below.

ISO or film sensitivity

The elements in my control are the sensitivity of my film or the ISO dial on my digital camera.  The higher the number, the higher the sensitivity.  With film, you will generally have the choice from anything from 100 ASA to 3200 ASA (ASA is exactly the same thing as ISO, but is used mostly for film).  Exposing at ISO 100 or using I00 ASA film will give less grain (or noise for digital) but requires lots of light.  Using ISO 400, or 400 ASA film allows you take photos on a cloudy day but will give you visible grain.  Exposing at ISO 1600 or pushing film to 1600 will allow you to shoot indoors, but will give even more grain, and exposing at 3200 using 3200 film will give you the most grain but allow night-time photography.  However, digital cameras will manage higher ISO setting with less grain (or visual noise) than on film.

Shutter Speed

Element number 2 is for how long I let the light hit the film or camera sensor.  The longer I leave my shutter open, the more light will hit the film or camera sensor.  If I use the highest shutter speed available (1/500th of a second to 1/2000th of second I will be able freeze motion, but that means that less light is hitting my film, or camera sensor.  I will therefore have to use a higher ISO number and risk having more grain than I might want.  I could use a longer shutter speed but if I go too low then I might capture camera shake.  I can get around this by using a tripod, but that means I have to carry one around.  The rule of thumb that I use is nothing under 1/60th of a second without a tripod, and like to aim for a middle ground 1/250th of a second.  And the other “rule” is to us nothing less than the focal length of your lens.  IE if I am shooting on a 50mm lens I will not shoot under 1/60th of a second.  If I shoot with a 85mm lens, then nothing under 1/100th of a second etc.  This will avoid camera shake. My older film cameras can’t shoot above 1/500th of a second and some top out at 1/250th of a second. But vintage cameras are a diferent ball game and deserve their own chapter.


Aperture

I can change the size of the hole (aperture) through which the light passes.  The larger the hole, the more light goes through and the smaller the hole, the less amount of light goes through the hole.  No wonder we talk about film sensitivity when it’s constantly being hit by light.  The aperture is measured in F Stops, and you might people talking about stopping down, or using wider apertures.  The aperture also controls depth of field.  Strangely, the smaller the number F-stop, e.g. F2.0 le larger the aperture, and this will give you more “depth of field” and get that creamy bokeh that has always been so popular. The larger the F-stop number, e.g. F16 the smaller the aperture (or hole) will be, but this allows more of the frame to be in focus.

Conclusion

With a digital camera, you will feel more at liberty to “play around” with these settings and see how they affect your shots, instead of worrying about the cost of film and how much each individual photo is costing you.  Depending on which camera you have, you have models that will do “Shutter priority” where you set the shutter speed and the camera does the rest for you, like the classic Canon AE1.  Others that will be “Aperture priority”, where, as the name suggests, you choose the aperture, and the camera does the rest for you, like the Pentax ME Super, and others will be fully manual so you get to control everything.   However on most, if not all digital cameras you will have all these choices included.

This is the first in a series of “how-to” articles that might be of use to beginner photographers, but it’s good to remind even old-timers like myself of the basics.  Whatever you think, don’t forget to comment and like, and if you have any questions then ask them.  There are no stupid questions, and every question deserves a response. 
Until we meet again Dear Reader!