Choosing the Right Film Format: 35mm vs. Medium Format Photography

I shoot both 35mm and medium format, and people occasionally ask which one they should pick up first. Here’s my honest answer, with the two side by side so you can see the difference for yourself rather than take my word for it.

35mm is the format everyone starts with. It’s the standard: easy to find, easy to get developed, and every camera shop from here to Nantes has a fridge full of it. Medium format is a different animal entirely, and the differences show up the moment you hold a negative up to the light.

The most obvious one is detail. A medium format negative is so much bigger than a 35mm frame that it just holds more information, more texture, finer lines, without trying. If you want a print that rewards someone standing close up and looking hard, medium format gets you there faster.

Then there’s the shape of the thing. 35mm gives you the familiar 3:2 rectangle. A lot of medium format cameras, mine included, shoot square, 6×6. That square forces you to compose differently. You can’t lean on the usual rectangle instincts. Vivian Maier shot almost entirely on a TLR in square format, and it’s part of why her street work looks the way it does, different balance, different eye. I won’t pretend I’ve got her eye, but the square format does make you slow down and actually think about balance instead of defaulting to the rule of thirds out of habit.

Depth of field is shallower on medium format too, which is handy for portraits or any shot where you want the subject to properly separate from the background. Get the composition right and your subject sits there against a soft blur that 35mm makes you work much harder for.

Size and weight go the other way. 35mm cameras are small and light, which matters when you’re moving fast on the street. Medium format bodies, mine especially (see my Mamiya C220 review for exactly how much of a beast it is), are bulkier and heavier, and that changes how you shoot. Less grab-and-go, more plan-and-wait.

Cost is the other real difference. 35mm and its development are cheap. Medium format isn’t. Shoot 6×6 and you get twelve frames a roll, not thirty-six, which changes your relationship with the shutter button fast. If you get twitchy shooting 35mm, wait until you’re down to twelve frames and every one of them costs real money. That said, no shot is wasted, even the ones that don’t work teach you something, and if you’re after gallery prints or paid work, the extra cost of medium format tends to pay for itself in the result.

35mm also just moves faster in daily use, candid shots, quick reactions, film that’s easy to get processed anywhere. Medium format asks you to slow down and actually think through a shot before you take it, which some days I love and some days I find a proper faff.

Below is the same rough scene shot on both: a 35mm frame on the Pentax ME Super with a 50mm lens, and a medium format frame on the Mamiya C220 with an 80mm lens (roughly equivalent field of view). Have a look and decide for yourself which you prefer.

The 35mm frame, shot on the Pentax ME Super. The standard format, the one everyone knows.

The square 6×6 frame, shot on the Mamiya C220. Judge the difference for yourself.

Same rough field of view, 50mm on the 35mm body, 80mm on the medium format body, and you can already see how differently the square frame reads next to the rectangle.

If you want to go further into medium format, a Mamiya C220 review is coming, where I’ll go into what it’s actually like carrying that thing around Nantes for a day.

There’s no correct answer here, whatever the camera forums tell you. I use both, for different reasons, on different days. 35mm when I want to move fast and not think too hard. Medium format when I’ve got the time to plan a shot properly and want the negative to reward it. Pick whichever one matches how you actually like to work, not which one sounds more serious.

Photography 101: What Nobody Tells You About the Basics

Why Photography?

Hello, Dear Reader,

I’ve decided to take some advice and start a series of articles focused purely on photography. You may already know how photography has impacted my life, and perhaps you’re hoping to discover something similar for yourself. This isn’t a formal course, and the advice I share comes from my own experiences over the years. My aim here is to offer you a useful reference point as you begin or continue your own photographic journey.

Let’s assume you’re new to photography and want to move beyond using your phone’s camera. You’re ready for a “real” camera. Does that sound about right?

From time to time, people approach me and say, “Ian, what’s the deal with photography? How do I get photos like yours?” That’s when my imposter syndrome likes to make an appearance. But despite that, I’m here to share what I know.

To begin, you’ll need a camera. I know it can feel overwhelming, especially if you’ve glanced at the price of a Leica and wondered if it’s worth selling a kidney. (Pro tip: hold off on that.) Leicas are beautiful, but you don’t need to break the bank to get started.

Any camera within your budget is a good starting point, especially if it allows you to control settings manually. Whether you choose film or digital, the fundamentals remain the same. Do you want the retro charm of a Canon AE1, the compact style of a Fujifilm X100F, or perhaps a more professional DSLR? The choice is yours, but remember: the camera is just a tool. It’s how you use it that matters. I’ve written some camera reviews you can check out, and I plan to add more in the future.

Now, let’s talk about the basics.

Exposure Basics

Photography is essentially about light—how much of it reaches your camera’s sensor (or film) and how it interacts with your subject. Too much light, and your image will be “overexposed” (too bright). Too little light, and it will be “underexposed” (too dark). You can, of course, play with these elements intentionally, using over- or underexposure to highlight specific areas of your shot. Photographers often talk about exposing for the highlights or shadows to get the right balance. In film photography we will expose for the shadows and in digital photography we expose for the highlights.

How do I control the light?

It all comes down to balancing three key elements, often called the “Exposure Triangle”: ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Adjust one, and you’ll need to compensate with the others. Let’s go through each of these in turn.

Diagram of the exposure triangle showing the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO
The three variables every photographer learns to negotiate. Get one wrong and the other two will tell you about it

Understanding ISO

ISO controls your camera’s sensitivity to light, crucial for getting the right exposure in your photographs. In film photography, it’s referred to as ASA, but the principle remains the same.

  • Lower ISO Settings (100-400): Ideal for bright conditions, such as sunny days, as they produce images with minimal grain or “noise.” For example, using ISO 100 outdoors on a clear day will give you crisp, clear shots.
  • Moderate ISO Settings (400-800): These settings are suitable for cloudy days or indoor lighting. Using ISO 400 allows you to capture good quality images without excessive grain, but expect some visibility of noise when using ISO 800 in dimmer conditions.
  • Higher ISO Settings (1600 and above): Perfect for low-light situations, such as indoors or nighttime photography. While ISO 1600 can help you capture images without a flash, be prepared for more noticeable grain. ISO 3200 can be used for very low light, but expect significant grain in the final image.

Modern digital cameras handle higher ISO settings much better than older film cameras did, significantly reducing noise even at higher values. The key takeaway is to experiment with different ISO settings to see how they affect your shots. Don’t hesitate to adjust your ISO based on the lighting conditions—higher sensitivity can make a big difference in capturing those special moments.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed determines how long the sensor (or film) is exposed to light. A fast shutter speed—like 1/500th or 1/2000th of a second—will freeze motion, but it lets in less light, so you may need to increase your ISO to compensate. Slower shutter speeds (1/60th of a second or lower) let in more light but can cause motion blur or camera shake. If you’re handholding the camera, try to stay above 1/60th of a second. If you’re using a longer lens, say 85mm, you may want to use 1/100th of a second or faster to avoid shake.

For stability with slower shutter speeds, a tripod is your friend. Just bear in mind that vintage cameras often have lower maximum shutter speeds, but those quirks deserve their own chapter.


Aperture and depth of field

Aperture controls how wide the lens opens to let light in, and it’s measured in f-stops. A smaller f-stop number (like f/2.0) means a wider aperture, which lets in more light and creates a shallower depth of field—ideal for those portraits with a soft, blurry background. A higher f-stop (like f/16) means a smaller aperture, which lets in less light but keeps more of the scene in focus—perfect for landscapes.

Aperture not only affects the amount of light coming through but also how much of your image appears sharp. The trick is finding the right balance for the look you’re aiming to achieve.

Conclusion

One of the great things about digital cameras is that you can experiment with these settings without worrying about the cost of film. You can see the results immediately and make adjustments on the fly. Most digital cameras offer different modes to help you control the exposure. For example, “Shutter Priority” lets you set the shutter speed while the camera adjusts the other settings. “Aperture Priority” does the same for aperture. If you’re more experienced, you can take full control with manual mode.

This is just the first in a series of articles designed for beginners, but it’s always helpful for even the more seasoned among us to revisit the fundamentals. If you have questions, feel free to leave a comment. No question is too simple, and I’ll do my best to respond.

Until next time, Dear Reader.

Post Scriptum

I’ve noticed many of you arrive at this site through this page (probably from Google), so welcome! This is just the first in a broader series on photography. If you found this article helpful, there’s more where this came from. I also cover topics like composition, gear choices such as the Pentax ME Super, which as its name suggests is rather Super, the differences between 35mm and medium format, and my approach to street photography.

My aim is to demystify photography. It doesn’t have to be complicated. Whether you’re just starting out or already have some experience, I hope you’ll find something useful here. Thanks for reading, and don’t hesitate to ask questions or leave a comment. I look forward to hearing from you.