Photography Philosophy – Part VI – Connection Through Photography

Building Relationships

I once read that if two Germans meet, they will form a club. I am not German, but they perfectly illustrate this universal need to belong. They are generally not the most extroverted of people, but even introverts have this need to form a relationship with somebody. As photographers, we have this same urge, but perhaps in a more subtle way. When I’m out on the street, I will always notice someone with a camera, even when I’m without one myself. I find myself looking to check the brand, possibly the make of the camera, and the type of lens the person is using. Even when we simply nod at each other, it’s a recognition of our shared enthusiasm for the art form. Am I judging them? Sometimes, yes, but to err is human.

When I see a film camera around someone’s neck, I am immediately drawn to it. When I venture out with the behemoth Mamiya C220, the camera is almost as much a statement as the actual image I’ll eventually take with it. People will come and inquisitively ask, “What kind of camera is that? Can you still get film for it?” or say, “Yes, my grandfather had one like that.” The obvious charm of a medium format TLR in this modern world.

Photography is sometimes seen as quite a niche activity, and film photography even more so. A film camera gives out a more exclusive vibe, telling the world that, yes, we actually are serious about this, and know what we are doing, as the camera isn’t doing anything for us. We are artists and therefore superior to you, at least that’s what we tell ourselves for validation… One could argue that there is a need for even more knowledge with film photography, and that the need to develop our films just goes to show our dedication to the craft.

Well, not always. But it does give a starting point to a chat, which invariably leads to a discussion about this shared interest, and gives us a common starting point to our relationship, however brief that relationship might be.

I also want to explore the relationship between the subject and the person photographing that subject. For a long time, I was petrified of using a model. I’m an introvert by nature, so the idea of having to make small talk with and direct a model was awful. I wanted to learn more about photographing a model and to break out of this comfort zone. Strangely, buildings won’t talk back at you or tell you what they think of your shot. People, on the other hand, are completely different.

I had learnt basic lighting technique and then had to find models. Luckily, I could rely on my daughter and wife as my first subjects, then branch out to include my son and his then-girlfriend. I then moved onto unsuspecting friends, fellow musicians, and eventually felt my confidence slowly building enough for me to photograph complete strangers by establishing that rapport between us. I discovered that sometimes they were as terrified as I was. Again, something we had in common…

I followed some advice from Sean Tucker, who specialises in portraiture. I simply had a conversation with my model, which seemed to put us both at ease. This allowed the model to detach from the shoot and just chat away.

Community and Collaboration

But connection isn’t limited to brief exchanges with strangers on the street; it can also be found in deeper collaborations with other photographers. As I said earlier, I am more of an introvert, and the idea of making an effort to be sociable is something I find exhausting. At parties, I have been known to chill out on the outer realm of guests and chat to the dog. Hey, we have great conversations together!

However, I have been known to make that special effort and even meet up with other photographers. If you’ve ever talked to me about photography and the merits of various pieces of kit, and actual cameras, you’ll know that I can talk about it until the cows come home—to the point that most people switch off after 30 seconds. But when you have a captive audience who actually cares and knows what you’re talking about, it just brings me out of my shell.

Sometimes one might think it’s a very blokey thing to meet up with other men and talk about, and participate in, some rather niche activity. That might sound a little suspect, but I assure you it isn’t.

I once had a meet-up in Nantes (the very first article on this blog), and it was so rewarding. It was a typical male bonding activity, and everyone, except for me, brought along their biggest cameras and most expensive lenses. It almost felt like a competition to see who had the most impressive camera. I just brought my relatively tiny X100F, the thinking man’s camera. Much like my car, it’s not the most inspiring thing to look at, but I enjoy using it, and it certainly gets the job done in a very satisfactory way!

I have also collaborated with Nantes Grand Angle, a collective of photographers that have outings in and around Nantes. In exchange for a free tour or free visit, we take pictures during the outings and write about them in our blogs or publish the photos on Instagram. I have done a couple of outings with them, and it’s always interesting to see other photographers in action. They are there seeing the same things as me, but not in the same way. That sense of belonging has a huge feel-good factor too.

A Shared Lens

Photography may often feel like a solitary pursuit, but beneath it lies a powerful thread of connection, weaving us together through moments captured and stories told. Whether it’s the subtle camaraderie exchanged between strangers with a simple nod on the street, the thrill of collaborating with others who share our passion, or the quiet understanding forged with a subject in front of the lens, these encounters remind us that we are never truly alone in this journey.

Through photography, we find not just a way to see the world but a way to be part of it—a community of like-minded souls bound by a shared appreciation for light, shadow, and time itself. In the end, our photographs are a bridge, linking us to others and creating a lasting connection beyond the mere act of pressing the shutter. For as long as we hold a camera, we’re part of something bigger, capturing fragments of life that, no matter how fleeting, will always connect us back to one another.

Classic Chrome Meets Portra 160: Evaluating the Pentax ME Super and Fujifilm X100F

Let’s talk about two of my favorite cameras—the Fujifilm X100F and the Pentax ME Super. While these cameras belong to entirely different eras of photography, they share a surprising similarity in size and portability. I’ve used both extensively, and today, I want to compare their unique qualities without turning it into a clichéd “film vs. digital” debate.

Photography enthusiasts often find themselves in one of two camps: those who champion the convenience and immediacy of digital, and the purists who swear by the timelessness of film. But if you’ve followed this blog for a while, you’ll know I don’t see things that way. Instead, I value what each format brings to the table, and more importantly, how both contribute to the experience of photography.

A Tale of Two Cameras

For me, photography is more than just the final image—it’s about the journey of capturing it. Any Lomography fan will agree: the process is as important as the outcome. When I shoot with the Fujifilm X100F, I appreciate the immediate feedback of seeing the image on the screen and knowing right away what I’ve captured. But with the Pentax ME Super, it’s a different experience. I have a rough idea of what the film will deliver, but the magic isn’t fully revealed until the film is developed. That anticipation is part of the charm.

For this comparison, I’ve chosen photographs from Northumberland. Its moody, windswept landscapes—places like Alnmouth and the Northumbrian moors—present the perfect canvas for both film and digital. The X100F’s Classic Chrome simulation delivers a retro, muted look, while Kodak Portra 160 film, shot through the Pentax, brings warmth and richness to the tones.

The Fujifilm X100F

he X100F has often been called a bridge between the analogue and digital worlds, and I tend to agree. It’s packed with modern features like autofocus and an electronic viewfinder (EVF), but the controls are refreshingly tactile, with dedicated dials for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. For anyone with a background in film photography, this setup feels familiar and intuitive.

What sets the X100F apart for me, though, is its Classic Chrome film simulation. It offers a subdued color palette that echoes old film stock, perfect when I want a slightly desaturated, vintage aesthetic. Unlike some over-the-top digital filters, Classic Chrome feels organic and subtle—bringing out details in the shadows without overwhelming the shot with contrast.

The X100F Photos

The Pentax ME Super

On the other hand, the Pentax ME Super is all about slowing down. There’s no EVF, no digital screen, and definitely no autofocus. Instead, you rely on a split-prism focusing system and aperture-priority mode. It forces you to be deliberate with each shot, a process that I find incredibly satisfying.

You’ll often hear film photographers talk about being more “in the moment” when shooting on film, and that’s exactly how I feel with the ME Super. The process of carefully composing each shot, setting exposure manually, and waiting for the film to be developed encourages patience and thoughtfulness.

For this outing, I paired the ME Super with Kodak Portra 160, a film that’s become known for its natural skin tones and soft, warm colors. Paired with the 50mm f/1.7 lens, this combination creates images with that unmistakable film character—shallow depth of field, soft highlights, and rich colors.

Lenses and Sensor Size

One of the most noticeable technical differences between these two cameras is their lenses and sensor sizes. The X100F features a 35mm equivalent f/2.0 fixed lens, while I usually use the 50mm f/1.7 on the Pentax. On the sensor front, the X100F has an APS-C crop sensor, giving it a narrower field of view compared to the full-frame 35mm film in the Pentax.

This technical difference goes beyond field of view. The Pentax ME Super has fixed ISO based on the film I choose, so I need to plan ahead for the lighting conditions I’ll be working in. In contrast, the X100F allows me to adjust ISO on the fly, providing flexibility in rapidly changing environments. This is something digital photographers have come to rely on, and it’s undeniably convenient when shooting in variable light.

The Pentax ME Super photos

Comparing the Images

Now, the big question: which is better, the Pentax ME Super or the Fujifilm X100F? Honestly, neither. They’re different tools for different purposes. Whether you’re drawn to the organic feel of film or the convenience of digital, both formats offer something unique. And that’s the beauty of photography—there’s no one-size-fits-all approach.

The sideshow feature shots from both cameras. As you look at them, you might favour one look over the other. The film shots have a warmth and texture that digital sometimes struggles to replicate, while the digital photos are sharp, detailed, and offer instant gratification. But ultimately, this comes down to personal preference, not a matter of one being objectively better.

Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, a camera is just a tool for capturing a scene in a particular way. As long as the final image is pleasing to the eye, I’d say the job is done. So don’t limit yourself to just one format—if you haven’t tried shooting film, give it a go. If you’re a film photographer who’s hesitant to try digital, maybe the X100F will ease that transition with its analogue-like feel.

More than anything, I encourage you to enjoy the process, whether it’s with film, digital, or both. Get out there, take your time, and remember that photography isn’t just about the images you capture—it’s about the experience.


If you’d like to go deeper on the Pentax ME Super specifically, I’ve written a full dedicated review: Why the Pentax ME Super Is the Perfect First Film Camera (Even in 2026).

Post Scriptum:
For those of you new to my blog, welcome! I cover everything from camera reviews to photography tips and techniques. Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or just starting out, there’s something here for you. Feel free to leave your thoughts or questions in the comments below—I’d love to hear from you!

The Opening of the Film Archives – Noirmoutier September 2016

Welcome back, dear reader, to another delve into the Film Archive from before this wonderful blog that I know you enjoy reading so much. I appreciate being able to share these photos with you in the hope that they may not only please you but also offer insight into an older form of photography, one where concerns about overheating or battery life were minimal. I want to demonstrate how it is still possible to achieve great results with any camera and that the main quality in your photography comes from you, the photographer.

Earlier this year, I was there with my Canon 6D Mark II, but today, we’re revisiting my visit from September 2016. At that time, I didn’t have my Canon, but I did have the Olympus Trip 35 with HP5 Plus film from Ilford. I used that camera quite a lot that summer and continued to use it in September. I might just have to dig it out of my camera cupboard and use it again. Constraints and minimal kit often lead to more creative decisions—just think back to my UK trip, where I only had my X100F with me.

Let’s start with the camera. It’s a small but gorgeous camera designed for the mass market in the 1960s and was still being produced in the 1980s, which attests to its appeal among casual photographers. With relatively few controls, it’s pretty foolproof. I can adjust the film ASA setting, and the selenium cell housed with the lens takes care of the rest, whether it’s aperture or shutter speed. The famous red flag appears in the viewfinder when the camera senses insufficient light. All I need to do is set the focus zone.

I must have bought mine around 2015 or 2016, and it was quite affordable at the time—no more than 50€. It was an iconic camera then and still is today, but as the supply of these cameras dwindles, prices have increased. You can now expect to pay 100€ or more, with some models even reaching nearly 200€. It remains a great camera but might be a victim of its own success, along with sellers’ optimism and greed. Buyer beware—shop around, and you might still find more accessible prices.

As for film, prices have also risen, especially for Kodak film, but Ilford remains affordable, as do Kentmere, Fomapan, and Rollei.

I’ve travelled the same road numerous times, and it always brings me a certain sense of peace. I tend to stop off at familiar spots along the way, and those of you with an eagle eye will recognise some of these locations from other photos in this blog.

But why go to Noirmoutier? Firstly, why not? It’s just over an hour’s drive from my home and is a popular destination for many locals from the Vendée. The island now suffers from overtourism, which has certainly changed its character since 2016. Efforts have been made to manage the flow of tourists, with improvements such as parking, pedestrian zones, clearly marked hiking trails, and numerous bike lanes. It’s a beautiful part of the world, so typical of the Vendée Coast with its pinède and long beaches. However, not everything is about tourism. The island is also renowned for its salted butter made with salt from local salt marshes and the famous potatoes from Noirmoutier. Additionally, there’s a small fishing fleet, as well as the fleet from Le Port du Bec in the neighbouring Beauvoir-sur-Mer.

The UK Chronicles, Part II: Alnmouth

A Rare Visit to Alnmouth: Making the Most of It

Little did I know this would be my only visit to the beach and village of Alnmouth this year, so I decided to make the most of it. I had my X100F around my neck, as usual. I was up at the crack of dawn, chasing that perfect light once again.

The morning routine was pretty much the same as my first day in Lesbury: early rising, early breakfast, and an early cup of tea. The weather was gorgeous, and the light was amazing. What could go wrong?

Arriving in Alnmouth: The Beauty of Early Morning Light

I hopped in the car and headed to Alnmouth, just a short drive down the road. As I came around the roundabout in Hipsburn, Alnmouth and the River Aln came into view, bathed in golden light. The reflections on the water were breathtaking. It was early enough to find a parking space without any trouble. If you’d like to see more photos of Alnmouth, I can add a link for you.

Exploring Alnmouth: A Village with a Rich History

As the name suggests, Alnmouth is a village at the mouth of the River Aln. It was once a bustling port, playing a significant role in 17th-century Northumbrian trade. I’ll let you read up on that on Wikipedia, and I’ll be here when you’re done.

The village was still asleep as I made my way past the golf club and down to the beach. The only people around were a few dog walkers and me, enjoying the morning’s fresh air. The orange hues in the sky were perfectly reflected on the sand.

Discovering Color in Photography: A Shift in Perspective

For those interested in color theory, the use of complementary colors was striking—blue skies contrasted beautifully with the oranges in both the sky and the sand. I’m on a quest to explore my colorful side. While I still love black-and-white photography, this trip made me eager to embrace color.

My knee wasn’t even hurting; I felt fantastic. Maybe there’s something to be said about the sun’s healing powers. I made my way back to the car, carrying a lump of coal I’d found on the beach. It was too good a find to keep to myself. Surely, Killian would be up by now. Lesbury was only five minutes away. Oh, what the heck? I’ll go wake him up!

Father-Son Bonding: Revisiting Alnmouth Together

Killian was fine getting up and out with me. I only had to bribe him with a sandwich and some chocolate. We went back to Alnmouth together, and I took more pictures of the village. It was a very pleasant father-son bonding moment. He wanted to go to the post office or general store. They didn’t take cash, and for once, I was able to pay with my card for him.

Switching Editing Tools: From Snapseed to Mobile Lightroom

I recently talked about Snapseed and had been using it to edit my photos, but this time, I wasn’t happy with the results. The photos had so much potential, and I didn’t want to waste them. Some friends had recommended Lightroom Mobile, so I decided to give it a try. I already knew my way around Lightroom on the PC, and I felt right at home with the mobile version. It was very intuitive—almost as much as Snapseed. What a pleasant surprise!

So, I went back with Killian and took more pictures of the village. It turned into a wonderful father-son bonding moment. He wanted to visit the post office or the general store, but they didn’t accept cash. Luckily, I could pay with my card for him.

A Missed Opportunity: Scotts of Alnmouth

I was hoping to visit Scotts of Alnmouth, but they were closed. As we walked back to the car, I saw the owners heading to work and was invited to come back when they were open. Unfortunately, I never managed to return to taste their wonderful coffee and cakes. That was the only low point of the holiday. But as that Austrian strongman and actor famously said, “I’ll be back!” It’s good to be home.

I want it, but do I really need it?

The camera gear industry is a powerful beast and it tries to convince us that this piece of kit, that is conveniently in stock, will help you become that photographer that you are destined to be.  Be that in magazines, be that in youtube influencer videos that “try out the camera” that the manufacturer has just lent us to show you what it’s like.  I’ve watched loads of these videos especially when thinking about the kit I wanted to buy.  Come on in and I’ll make sure you have the best camera possible, and the best possible lens.  What’s your budget?  OK, I’m sure we can work something out.  What kind of photography do you want to do?  Well, you’ll need this, and this, and this, etc.

That nice man in the shop will be more than happy to take your money and sell a high end camera that will be a thing of beauty.  But look at the title again.  “I want it, but do I really need it?”  You have fallen into their trap.  I’m not trying to put down these sales people, and their wealth of knowledge, but know that there are other options out there.

I’m going to dare say it.  You don’t need the latest and greatest equipment to take great photos.  Instead prioritise value, and mindful shooting, over gear acquisition.  Think about boys and toys.  I get exactly the same feeling as you when I enter a camera store.  I want it all.  Of course I do.  Who doesn’t?  But,what would my wife say?  What would my bank manager say?  What would reason tell me instead of letting my emotions get the better of me?  Can I really justify this acquisition?  Do I really need it, or is there a less onerous solution?  I know.  I’ve just pissed on your bonfire, but it’s time for a reality check here…

So what can I do about that?  You can realise that there is a huge market of second hand gear out there.  I have taken this route in the past and have no regrets.  Yes, I did it my way…

Where do you go to discover all these hidden gems?  There is of course E-Bay, that huge online auction site which I used to acquire the majority of my film cameras.  When I was a customer of the site the film cameras were fairly cheap, since those pesky hipsters hadn’t cottoned on to the fact that film photography is cool.  So yes, each purchase was a gamble, but I had less money to lose, and the return would be greater.  The old cameras were simpler, the lenses were great, and there are still lots of examples of reasonable cameras out there.  Would I use it for digital?  Probably not.  I’m not really a gambling man, and don’t have a huge wad of cash that I am willing to possibly waste.

But E-Bay is not the only option.  There are various online sites such as mpb.com that have a very good reputation, and have tested each piece of equipment that they sell.  They give you an honest appraisal of the piece of kit and are honest about the state of said piece of kit.  They guarantee each purchase, and have a generous returns policy.  I might consider using it if I were interested in buying some new kit.  But at the moment I’m not.  There are also second hand areas of our beloved camera shops that will have used gear.  

When buying second hand, you will generally be spending less money, or at worst, getting more kit for your hard earned cash.  Older models of camera might not be as super duper as the latest models that look so sexy in that shop window, but for what most us mere mortals need, they are more than adequate.   You really have to look at which features are most important to you.  Thanks to you, there will be one less camera going to landfill.

Talking of features, let’s talk about the 80/20 rule.  For 80% of your photographs, you will use about 20% of your gear, and features on your camera. I urge you to identify the essential features for your type of photography (e.g., autofocus, image stabilisation, dynamic range), and maybe avoid spending money on features or lenses that you won’t use frequently.  Shutter speed when doing sports photography, or high dynamic range for landscape photography.  Is an F1.2 lens really what you need, or will F2.0 pr F2.8 still get the effect you want?

I’m going to talk about the X100F (again!) and compare it to the latest version from Fujifilm, the X100V and the X100VI

FeatureFujifilm X100FFujifilm X100VFujifilm X100VI
Sensor24.3MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS III26.1MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 440.2MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 5 HR Sensor
Lens23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent)23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent) with improved optics23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent) with further improved optics
Autofocus91-point hybrid autofocus425-point hybrid autofocus with improved face/eye detection425-point hybrid autofocus with further improved face/eye detection and subject tracking
ViewfinderHybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic)Hybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic) with improved EVFHybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic) with a larger and higher resolution EVF
Screen3-inch fixed LCD3-inch tilting touchscreen3-inch tilting touchscreen
Image StabilisationN/AN/A6-Stop In-Body Image Stabilization
Video1080p up to 60fps4K up to 30fps6.2K (cropped) and 4K up to 30fps
Weather SealingNoYesYes
Price (approx.)€800-€1000 (used)€1300-€1500 (used)€1700-€1800 (new)

Key Takeaways:

  • Sensor: The X100VI offers a significant resolution upgrade with its 40.2MP sensor, providing greater detail and flexibility for cropping compared to the X100V and X100F.
  • Lens: All three models share the same focal length, but the X100V and X100VI feature improved lens designs for better sharpness and close-focus performance.
  • Autofocus: The X100V and X100VI offer a substantial upgrade in autofocus points and performance compared to the X100F, making them better suited for fast-moving subjects and low-light situations.
  • Viewfinder: The X100VI has the most advanced viewfinder with a larger, higher resolution electronic viewfinder (EVF) and improved refresh rate.
  • Screen: The X100V and X100VI have tilting touchscreens, which can be helpful for composing shots from awkward angles, while the X100F has a fixed screen.
  • Video: The X100VI boasts the most advanced video capabilities, offering 6.2K recording with a crop, while the X100V is limited to 4K, and the X100F to 1080p.
  • Weather Sealing: Both the X100V and X100VI offer weather sealing, making them more durable in adverse conditions compared to the X100F.
  • Price: The X100F remains the most affordable option, especially on the secondhand market. The X100V offers a good balance of features and price, while the X100VI is the most expensive but comes with the latest technology.

Ultimately, the choice depends on your budget, needs, and priorities. If you need the highest resolution and advanced video features, the X100VI is the way to go. If you prioritize value and portability, the X100F is still a great option. The X100V sits in the middle, offering a good balance of features and price.

If you are a professional, then I think the same logic will apply.  Even though a nice kit is an investment you need to consider the returns on your investment?  Is the purchase justified and will it bring more work for you?  Will it expand my offer enough?  If you are an amateur, then you can spend any amount of money you want, but if you could do more, with less, wouldn’t that be an appealing option? Have I not managed to convince you yet? Look at the film archives… And look at the pictures from the X100F

24-70mm Lens: Unveiling the Beauty of Vendée Coastal Landscapes

Work. That familiar feeling of being a hamster on a never-ending wheel. Emails, passive agressive colleagues, and meetings blurring into one another like the monotonous hum of voices in the office. Sound familiar? Yeah, that was me a few weeks ago. So, what’s a weary soul to do? Employ some sartorial elegance with navy blue chinos, a white button down shirt, my new sungalsses, and my favourite Panama hat, and embark on a spontaneous coastal escape to Vendée!

Now, full disclosure, Vendée isn’t exactly the Caribbean. But for a quick mental recharge, it certainly does the trick. Plus, it was the perfect opportunity to put my Canon 6D Mark II through its paces, specifically the oft-maligned 24-70mm f/4L lens. This trusty workhorse gets a bad rap sometimes, but let me tell you, by the end of this trip, I was a convert.

The Vendée coast is a tapestry of stunning landscapes, each begging to be captured. My first stop was Viellevigne (not strictly the Vendée and just on the other side of the Loire Atlantique border), a charming little town I usually just whiz through on my daily commute. But this time, with a camera in hand and a head full of vacation vibes, I saw it with fresh eyes. I framed the quaint church nestled between two ancient trees, a scene I’d driven past a thousand times without a second glance. The hedgerows, usually just a blur of green, revealed a hidden world of wildflowers and buzzing insects when I switched to the lens’s macro function. Suddenly, the familiar became fascinating.

Next, I cruised down to the grand canal near Fromentine. Now I don’t know if grand means big or grand in this instance. I mean it’s not huge, and the grand canal in Venice is somewhat ore deserving of the title. The sun, a generous giver of both light and good mood, cast a warm glow on the weathered ruins of old houses lining the water. Across the road bridge stood a line of fishing huts, its battered paint a testament to years of battling the elements. The 24-70mm here proved its versatility, letting me capture both the vastness of the canal and the intricate details of the local flora.

As the day wore on, I found myself at Port de Bec, a haven for oyster farmers. Here, the scene was abuzz with activity. Tractors lumbered out of the water, hauling heavy loads of oyster boats ashore. The rickety moorings, weathered and worn, added even more charm. The lens’s sharp autofocus kept pace with the bustling scene, ensuring I didn’t miss a single detail.

Finally, the crown jewel of the trip: the Passage de Gois. This legendary causeway, submerged twice a day by the tide, is a photographer’s playground (just make sure you keep an eye on the water, unlike yours truly who nearly got his sandals swept away!). The tide was rolling in fast, creating a dramatic contrast between the exposed road and the encroaching water. The 24-70mm handled the dynamic light and vastness of the scene beautifully.

But this trip wasn’t just about capturing stunning photos (although, let’s be honest, those were pretty damned cool!). It was a much-needed reminder of the power of stepping off the hamster wheel, even if it’s just for a short while. The fresh air, the sun on my face, the beauty of the Vendée coast – it all conspired to wash away the workaday stress. I came back feeling refreshed, inspired, and with a newfound appreciation for the magic that can be found right on your doorstep, if you just know where to look.

And the 24-70mm? Yeah, it more than held its own. It proved to be a versatile and capable travel companion, capturing everything from sweeping landscapes to macro details. So, next time someone throws shade at this trusty lens, I’ll just point them to my Vendée photo album and let the pictures do the talking.

Until our next adventure my Dear Reader!

Zooming In on Flexibility Part II

We have talked about the different kinds of zooms in my last article, but now I’m going to present you with concrete examples of the different zooms in my own personal set-up, and try to concentrate on the “user experience” that each lens offers.  At the end of each section there will be a slideshow to give you examples from the archives to illustrate how I have used this lens in the past.

Canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM

I remember the sheer joy of opening this, my favourite lens for my 6D Mark II and hearing it click into place on my camera’s body. It felt heavy and substantial.  It has the red ring, known to Canon users as a gauge of high quality. I was onto a good thing.  It bridged the gap between my desire to go wide and get that distinct distortion that comes with going wide, and a more conservative, more sensible 35mm focal length of my X100F.

And then I went out and tried it in the field.  Well in my bedroom anyway, being suitably amazed by the wide angle of view that I now had at my disposal.  I’d read about distortion, and had watched enough YouTube to know what I was in for.  But the first time is always special.  I soon learned how to take advantage of its capabilities, realising that getting down low could create leading lines in compositions that I had only dreamt about before.

If you have seen my Instagram, you will have seen this lens in use and how I have been able to adapt from an urban setting to getting my feet dirty in the countryside or getting them wet on the beach. I have nor regrets about this purchase.  But it, despite its many attributes, has its limits.   It is adapted to landscapes and cityscapes.  It’s great for giving a different view of the world that is more “interesting” to look at.  I have used it for portraits and taking full advantage of this aforementioned distortion.

It might well be a contender for the title of Ian’s favourite lens.  Sorry you prime purists!  

CANON EF 24-70MM F/4L IS USM

This is the lens that I actually have on my camera at the moment. Why?  Because I was out at the pub taking photos for a leaving do for two of my friends.  I needed something I could use to get general shots of the evening and that wouldn’t let me down.  This lens is a beast and a workhorse.  It gets the job done!, which is why I bought it in the first place.  I was going to be photographing a wedding for a friend of mine, and I needed something that would help me throughout the day.  I would be taking portraits, group photos, photos of the reception, and this was the classic lens for such a situation.  It has you covered.  I basically put my flash to TTL mode, and camera to program mode, and all I had to do was to get the shot.  Photographically it was a great day and I managed to get some pleasing shots for my friends. It’s also my go to lens for filming video…

It was “take your camera to work day.”  I was going to be taking pictures of timber at the factory where I work and it was still in my bag, and securely attached to my camera.  I was able to get clear shots for my boss, and the lens didn’t let me down even if I had to be in one of the darkest areas of the factory with dubious lighting conditions. This is where image stabilisation becomes your best friend. 

It was still in my car when I took my daughter and boyfriend to see their friends near Nantes.  I had just written the article about Spring Springing, and wasn’t happy digging into the archive.  I felt that this was being lazy, and that you, Dear Reader deserve better…  The camera with the 24-700mm lens on it was just sitting there begging to be let loose!  So I let it loose on the trees around the Mairie of Basse Indre, and took advantage of its “macro” function. So go and have a look at the article to see those.

CANON EF 70-300MM F/4L IS USM

I don’t have the very latest version of this article, but a more old-school version, so it’s not as super duper as the later super duper models, but it was a heck of a lot cheaper at around 150€ instead of 850€ for the newer super duper models.  But I’m not here to talk about specific model types etc, but about the focal lengths of this lens and how I  have used them in the field and my experience of using this lens.

As a small boy I was a member of the RSPB and loved seeing all the various birds in the garden but also in the countryside.  I even learnt about how to draw them.  I grew up, and now have a super duper camera with a lens that will allow me to capture these birds on camera without spooking them.  

One of my favourite outings in Nantes is taking one of the electric boats out on the river, and I have this lens with me to capture the wildlife that I know I will see.  I am by no means a wildlife photographer like the ones you see in the documentaries stalking their prey for weeks etc.  But it doesn’t stop me from trying to see what I can get without necessarily overdoing it. And even for getting shots of birds using the various feeders in my garden it’s fine!

I have used the lens after having watched YouTube videos for landscape photography using it to seek out details in the landscape.  This was definitely something new for me, and definitely a useful exercise forcing me out of my comfort zone and making me see the countryside in a different way.

It’s not the lens I gravitate to first, but I’m happy to have it as an option.  It isn’t the most modern of lenses either, but it’s certainly “good enough” for what I need it to do…  Do I regret this purchase?  No.  Is it limited in its scope?  Yes.   Am I bovvered, as Catherine Tate might say?  Still no.  Would I buy the “super duper” version of this lens?  Probably not as it doesn’t correspond to the majority of photography that I do. Photographing birds is more of a hobby and not my main photography aim in life..  

Conclusion

I think you have the information at your fingertips now to help you decide on your lens choices be that for primes or for zooms.  Those nice people in the photography shop will be more than happy to take your money from you, but now, you have the knowledge to get past the sales pitch and make an educated purchase knowing what you’re letting yourself in for.  While we’re on the subject of purchasing and investing in gear, always have the following concept at the back of your mind.   Glass is more valuable than a camera body.  Better glass on a less top of the range body will always get you better results.
But much more than the importance of gear, is the importance you get your beautiful booty off that really comfy sofa, and get out into the world with your camera and your lens and train that beautiful eye of yours to capture some awe inspiring images!

Prime Lenses: Elevating Your Photography Beyond the Basics – Part II

In my last article we explored the prime lenses in my collection and how and why I use them concentrating on my own experience with each one. I started ultra wide and am now going to head towards a narrower field of view. We’ll start with the nifty fifty, go through the Helios 44-2 58mm f2, on to the 85mm f1.8, and end on the Helios 135mm f2.8.

50mm f1.8 – the nifty fifty

Be it a digital lens or one for a film camera, this focal length is considered to be the “standard” to which all the others are compared to.  I have already mentioned my initial set from 1987 where the Pentacon 50mm f1.8 was fitted onto my Praktica MTL3.  It is the lens with which I learnt photography.  Why is it considered the “standard?”  Conventional wisdom would suggest that the view offered by the lens is the closest to the human eye.  This explains why Robert Doisneau used it extensively in his documentary photography.  Henri Cartier-Bresson is known for his ability to capture decisive moments in street photography. The 50mm focal length, with its natural perspective and good depth of field, was perfectly suited to this approach. It is also one of the more simply constructed lenses and yet still offers a great shooting experience be that digital or film shooting.

Helios  44-2 58mm f2.0 

This is one of those lenses that one hears about and has a certain mythology.  It is known  most for its swirly bokeh which you can see in the images in the slideshow below.  I think mine must have cost around 50 Euros so in my mind I was thinking, you can’t go far wrong.  This swirliness adds interest to any photograph be it in an oriental garden, on in portraits.  Just enough to make the viewer have a closer look and fall even further in love with your capture.  It’s an old soviet lens and fairly solid as you can read in the article I wrote about the Helios and the Canon 6D mark II.  It is the first of my “portrait” lenses.

We’ve done the bokeh bit, now let’s talk about the focal length.  When in the studio I will start using my 50mm, but this is always ready in my bag.  But it’s not just a portrait studio lens, and I have used it on outings in Nantes.  As all “telephoto” lenses, it separates the background from the subject, and brings forward the subject to the fore.  I haven’t used it on my Praktica film camera yet and should probably do so very quickly.  It would be a shame not to after all.  As it stands I have to use an adapter for my Canon and another adapter for my Fuji XT2.  With the crop sensor on the Fuji it magically turns into an 85mm equivalent.

Canon 85mm f1.8

This is the most classic portrait lens and allows me to take a step back compared to using the 50mm.  Again, the bokeh on this lens is lovely and so creamy that it could give a rotund older gentleman a heart attack if it were cake.  But it’s not cake, so everything is fine.  When I’m in the studio I can concentrate on the eyes and by the time the portrait gets to the ears we’re in creamy bokeh territory.

However, some photographers will take this lens into the street for street portraits.  It’s not a huge lens, and thus less creepy, and allows the photographer to take a step back and still feel close to his subject.  This distance between photographer and subject contributes to a more natural interaction between photographer and model, reduces the feeling of being cramped or intrusive, and leads to a more natural interaction, which in turn leads to more natural posing and a more relaxing experience for everyone.

Helios 135mm f2.0

This is the largest of my “everyday” primes and back in 1987 it was in my bag to bring the world even closer than I could with the nifty fifty.  I was a beginner back then.  And didn’t realise the potential of telephoto lenses.  The approach is much the same as for the 85mm but allows even more distance, and is great for those intimate shots that can capture the alluring side look.  In landscape it can help you pick out details in the landscape that you can’t get closer to for practical reasons, and bringst that background that much closer to the foreground.  For those of you who don’t like manual focussing, you might want to give this one a miss.  This was a lens from an age before autofocus came along.   However on my Fujifilm XT2 this transforms into a rather snazzy 200mm lens due to it’s APSC sensor and 1.5 crop factor,  which would be a lot cheaper than a more modern equivalent, and with the focus peaking on mirrorless cameras, this can be a very convincing argument.

Conclusion.

Primes can generally be considered to be a higher quality option.  With their simpler constructions, they can offer sharper images   They generally have larger apertures, allowing for ease of use in lower light, and providing that creamy, sexy bokeh that everyone keeps mentioning.  By adding a limitation to the creative process they can help the photographer become a more deliberate and mindful craftsman, and concentrate more on composition.

However, even though individually lighter than most zooms, their collective mass may be more important if you constantly want to have every single option available in your bag.  You will be changing lenses more often, when having more to choose from.  Never forget that you are the person carrying them around.  So choose carefully, be deliberate, and plan ahead.   The results will be worth it! 

Prime Lenses: Elevating Your Photography Beyond the Basics – Part I

Introduction

This article is a follow on from my last article discussing the various merits of zoom and prime lenses.  Today I’m going to try and give a more indepth look into this world of primes.  The lenses that I will be discussing are my own and I have experience with them.  I will be talking more about how “I” use them and how they affect “my” photography, be that the actual photos or the photographic experience.  All the really techy stuff is available on Google;  I’m trying to give you an idea of the sentiments that I have when using the various lenses.  That said, let’s get into the nitty gritty.  I will go through each lens giving you details on how I use it, how “they” say I should use it, and start from the widest to the longest focal length.  This was turning into a longer article than usual, but since there’s a lot to cover, it will become a two part article.  Again mother, I will be talking shop, so consider yourself warned again… Sounds fair?  Let’s go!

Fisheye lens (TT Artisans 7mm f2.0 manual focus lens)

My fisheye lens (7mm so a 11mm full frame equivalent) is the one I use with my Fujifilm XT2.  It is a super wide lens made by TT Artisans, and its main claim to be included in my collection is that it was affordable.  Or at least affordable compared to some of the lenses out there.  However it doesn’t feel cheap on the camera.  It’s manual focus, but I can focus very closely (minimum focus distance is 0.125 metres) and the whole shot will be sharp.  It’s ultra wide so it gives a great level of distortion, which I love, but others might not.  If you can manage to get your horizon level, then you might not get as much distortion as you could by just raising the view 10° higher than the horizon. I love the effect that I can get from it.  It’s definitely a niche lens, and the price I would have to pay for something similar for my DSLR would be silly money.

  • Vintage car
  • Vintage car
  • Standing Stones in Brittany
  • my beautiful niece
  • Nantes Street Photo
  • Le lieu Unique, Nantes
  • Le lieu Unique Nantes

16mm f2.0 (Fujifilm brand lens with autofocus 24mm equivalent for full frame lenses)

This was the first lens I bought for my Fujifilm XT2.  This 16mm lens’ full frame equivalent would be 24mm.  Why did I buy it?  Well, I already had a 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F, and thought that the difference between 24mm and 35mm would allow me to go wider and get more into my scene whilst avoiding the distortion of the fisheye lens. A particular outing sticks in my mind and was when I used the lens to take photos of the modern architecture on the Île de Nantes.  The wide angle of view (hence the name wide angle lens) was perfect for this kind of street landscape photography.  Would I use it for close-up portraits?  Only if I want to elongate people when taking a shot from low down on the ground looking up.  Would it be good for classic street photography?  Possibly as a compliment lens to my 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F.  Do I regret acquiring it?  Not at all and I particularly like its wide angle of view.

  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
  • the bird nest building
  • Street Crossing
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
  • Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
  • the bird nest building

28mm f2.0 M42 mount lens for the Praktica MTL 3 film camera

I started my photographic journey with this film camera and only bought this lens much later.  I had my 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty) and this was my first venture into a wider lens.  Could I see a massive difference straight away?  No.  But I no longer felt the need to move further back to get the view I wanted into frame.  Moving back with  a camera on your eye and banging into a building and saying sorry to the building is not the way to go, however British you may be.  The Leica Q (a very sexy little thing) uses this 28mm lens and is aimed at street photographers who have enough money to buy a Leica.  The same goes for the Richo GR II but without the need to sell a kidney.  There is a great debate on the Internet talking about the difference between the 28mm and 35mm lens for street photography, which tries to polarise everyone.  I try to stay as neutral as possible in these kinds of controversies but I do use my 35mm lens more.  Do I still like the 28mm format?  Yes.  Is it very different from the 24mm format?  Not hugely, but I tend to worry less about distortion .  I should probably go out and run a roll of film and see how I feel afterwards.  I remember the need to go in close to avoid capturing too much in the frame with this lens, but that is not a factor that could deter me from using it.

  • Imposing doorway, Nantes
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
  • Passage Pommeraye Nantes
  • Street Light, Place Graslin, Nantes
  • Street Photo, Nantes
  • Street Photo, Nantes
  • Telegraph wires
  • Notre Dam de Bon Port, Nantes

23mm f2.0 (X100F lens equivalent to the 35mm for a full frame camera)

The 35mm lens is the classic for street and documentary photography.  It was the lens used by a majority of newspaper photojournalists in the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s.  This might explain its influence on my own photography.  I remember when the Independent first came out and the high quality of photojournalism.  I think that if Fujifilm decided on the 35mm equivalent for their fixed lens cameras then there’s probably a very good reason for it.  Through my use of the X100F for street and documentary photography I have become very accustomed to the view it gives me of the world.  It’s not just for the street though.  Even as a sole travel lens it allows me to capture details of a trip, as well as wider views to tell my story in more detail. It’s brilliant as a lens for environmental portraits and is wide enough to always give contect in the frame to the main subject.  If you try to do close up photography with portraits you might notice some distortion but if that happens just move ever so slightly backwards, reframe, and the problem should no longer be one.

  • St Brevin les Pins
  • Two friends, St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • Two friends, St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • St Brevin les Pins
  • House in Saint Brevin
  • Two Friends

In my next article, we will go higher up the focal lengths and discuss the narrowing field of view that they offer and explore how they bring the background forwards. As for this article, all the information laid out is equally as valid for film or digital photgraphy.

Prime vs Zoom Lenses: Choosing the Right Lens for Your Photography

Good evening Dear Reader.  We’re back delving  into another series of articles where I will talk shop.  Mother, if that doesn’t interest you then consider yourself warned.  I will, as the title of this article suggests, be talking about the differences between zoom and prime lenses.  I too, many moons ago, was a beginner photographer, and just starting out with a Praktica MTL3, with a 50mm F1.8 lens, and a Helios 135mm F2.8 lens.  An SLR because in 1987 a DSLR did not exist.   This was my first lot of “gear.” That was then and this is now.  2024.  When buying a “starter” camera, “they” will try and flog you, or offer in a bundle what has become known as the ubiquitous “kit lens.”  Otherwise you will be gazing upon a “huge” array of lenses with some “huge” prices to go with them.  This will generally be included in the more “accessible” range of cameras.  It certainly was for my Fuji XT2 18-55mm zoom lens (24-70mm equivalent for full frame sensor).  Don’t get me wrong, I use my 18-55 lens on my Fuji XT2 and like using it.  BUT, when I bought that camera I bought a 24mm equivalent prime lens for it.

This raises the question about what is a prime lens and what is a zoom lens.  A prime lens is a lens that has a fixed focal length.  A zoom lens allows you to vary this focal length and “zoom” in and out.

Advantages of Prime Lenses

Superior Image Quality

You will generally find that you can obtain a “sharper” image with a prime.  Some of the older lenses and ones that we used in film photography are slightly softer, but we were fine about it then, and this quest for modern sharpness seems to have become more important.  In digital photography, this new and thoroughly modern technology will lead to less distortion, and chromatic aberration, which is indeed an aberration where you might get a blueish outline around the subjects in your shots.

Wide Aperture Capabilities

I touched on the concept of aperture in my Photography 101 article.  The aperture is the hole that allows light to expose the film or your camera sensor.  The larger aperture (indcicate by a smaller f number) allows two things.  More light to hit the film, therefore allowing us to shoot in lower light,  and the separation of the subject from the background by getting that “creamy” bokeh beloved by so many of us. 

Compactness and Portability

The “average” prime lens is more “compact” than the average zoom lens.  Effect number one of this is that you can fit more primes into your camera bag and it will probably be lighter.  Think about what I said in my street photography article.  A camera with a smaller lens is also less threatening than having a massive thing thrust in your face.  Being less threatening is always good, and makes the photographic experience more pleasant for everyone.

Creativity and Artistic Expression

When using primes every shot becomes more deliberate.  The choice of which prime to use becomes more important.  You “zoom” with your feet and not with the lens. I have talked about this mindfulness in my photography tutorial series.   

Advantages of Zoom Lenses

First of all we have to talk about what a zoom lens is.  Well, it’s a lens that allows you to zoom.  Sorry about that, I couldn’t help myself. On a more serious note, it is a lens which glides through a series of focal lengths on the same lens.  I have three zooms for my DSLR, a 16-35mm f4, a 24-70mm f4, and a 70-300 f4 – f5.6, and the 18-55mm (24-70 full frame equivalent) kit lens for my Fuji XT2. With three lenses I am covered from 16mm to 300mm, which for me is a big deal.  My 16-35mm has me covered for wide angled vistas of the Place Cambronne in Nantes, and those distorted obligatory bike shots, to general street photography.  My 24-70 f4 even has a macro function offering me even more versatility.  I would class it as my events lens and can double for street photography, and even street portraits.  It’s a veritable work horse of a lens and was what I used when I talked about spring.  My 70-300 lens is for when I can’t get near enough to my subject without spooking it, be that my children messing around next to the river, or taking shots of cormorants sunbathing on the river Erdre in Nantes.

Convenience and Ease of Use

In my previous paragraph I talked about the different focal lengths that I have with each zoom lens.  At the moment in my camera bag I have my Fuji X100F and its 35mm equivalent f2 lens and my Canon 6D Mark II and my 24-70mm f4 lens.  It means carrying less equipment and being prepared for a variety of shots when on the streets or taking photos for my work.  It also provides for less “faffing about” which is something I love to avoid in general, unless I am prepared mentally and ready for it.

All-in-one Solution

Instead of having a different lens for each situation, I have a solution in my bag that allows me to adapt.  Why buy three lenses when I can have a multitude of possibilities with just one lens?  They might seem expensive, but when you are not a professional, cost is something that has to be taken into account, otherwise you have to be very good at communication with your spouse justifying all these purchases.  Happy wife, Happy life.  Happy Husband, we’ll see about that!

Image Stabilisation

In the last paragraph, I talked about stable marital life, and on my zooms I have image stabilisation, which will allow me a more stable shooting of an image.  In the Photography 101 article I talked about having an exposition of nothing lower than the focal length.  IE with a 50mm lens I should not shoot lower than a 50th of a second to avoid camera shake and therefore a sharper image.  This stabilisation offers me about 4 stops extra to play with, be that having a longer shutter speed, or having a larger aperture and therefore getting more in focus in my image.  

Conclusion

I have talked about how this photography lark is all about give and take.  This is so true in the exposition triangle where everything is a question of balance, but also true in the case of lens choice.  Some will be more expensive but give you more control, and others will offer you more ease of use and versatility. You are the one who ultimately has to decide on what camera gear you need (more than want).  What is most important to you?  How will the lens help you?  What is your budget?  

When all these questions are answered honestly then you will be well on the way to having the kit you need, to do the type of photography that you want to do.  

What would I advise a novice for their first acquisition?  I would say the nifty fifty.  The 50mm is closest to what the eye sees.  This prime generally offers an opening of F1.8 which gives you that sexy bokeh.  

Ultimately the choice is yours alone.  But this simple guide may help you reflect and question yourself and allow you to make a deliberate well thought out decision.  The most important thing is to get out there with your camera, start making memories and training that beautiful eye of yours!

The Photographer Behind the Lens

Embarking on a photography outing is filled with anticipation, decision-making, and a blend of personal passion and professional discipline. Anything can go wrong, but maybe that’s not the right way to put it. Perhaps I should rather say, expect the unexpected and be ready to adapt. As I prepare for each little jaunt, I face a range of choices that shape the outcome of my photographic endeavours.

Selecting the Right Gear:

The first step in my preparation involves choosing the right camera for the occasion. Factors such as, “Does it still work?” for my film cameras, or “have I charged enough batteries?” for my digital cameras, enter into consideration. My energy levels and the allure of film versus digital play a crucial role in this decision-making process. For example, “Do I have the energy to develop and scan my negatives, or can I face hours of photo editing?” For me at least, it’s not just about the gear, but about the experience it brings. Those of you who have used film will know exactly what I mean. It is a totally different experience to using digital cameras. The words “faffing” and “about” spring to mind. What is my goal in going out today? Is it just to see what happens, or do I “have” to get results?

Navigating Weather and Mental Health:

Weather forecasts and mental well-being become significant considerations as I plan my outing. I, like most people, have an aversion to being rained upon. Even though I might not melt, I don’t want rain getting into the electronics in modern cameras. The allure of capturing the perfect shot often outweighs the discomfort. Yet, there are moments when self-care takes precedence, telling me to just stay in. Sometimes, staying in and getting my ironing done provides as much satisfaction as going out, allowing me to look so dapper on my next outing. The joy of unlimited cups of tea might just make staying in on a rainy day all the more appealing.

Packing the Essentials:

A well-equipped photography bag is essential for any outing. From spare batteries to a flask of tea for comfort, each item serves a purpose in ensuring a successful day of shooting. The contents of my bag reflect not only my photographic needs but also my personal preferences and creature comforts. However, the weight of the equipment is a crucial consideration, especially for street photography where mobility is key. As a more rotund gentleman of 52 years, this has become more and more important. Basically, you can take it with you, but you have to carry it. The X100F and a couple of spare batteries weigh next to nothing, but a Mamiya, or DSLR with a couple of nice zoom lenses suddenly makes you feel less young and daring. Don’t get me started on tripods. Yes, you might need one (in fact, you do) if you want to be doing long exposure photography, but imagine lugging one up a mountain. Okay, don’t. It’s not worth it. So ask yourself what do you really need, and will one of your children carry it for you? And how much will it cost you to make it worth their while?

The Lens Palette:

Crafting Perspectives: Different lenses allow me to achieve different results. If I use my 16-35 lens, I will get wide vistas in town and have a certain level of “artistic distortion.” If I use the 24-70, I have quite a good range of focal lengths, and also a macro feature on the lens. If I use my fisheye lens, I can get all “arty farty.” With a 35mm lens, I am perfect for street photography, and it’s the lens I use the most. The nifty fifty allows me to have a more human-eye view of the world.

The Digital Dilemma:

When it comes to the choice between film and digital photography, authenticity often clashes with practicality. While the allure of film photography appeals to my desire for authenticity, and it does look exceptionally cool, and you can enter “smug mode” knowing that you are arguably better than those who only know about digital photography (yes, snob value does exist!), the energy and time required for development and scanning can be daunting. On the other hand, digital photography offers convenience, allowing for instant image transfer and easy post-processing in software like Lightroom. The decision ultimately hinges on the balance between artistic vision and practical considerations, and can I really be bothered? I know, you have just lost respect for me as an artist, but the struggle is real.

Professionalism Meets Passion:

For professional assignments, meticulous preparation is paramount. From checking equipment to selecting the perfect lenses for the job, every detail contributes to achieving the desired outcome. I noticed this during my musical studies when the goal is to get a paying gig and deserving the pay. You have to get results and your reputation depends on those results. But, even in the midst of professional obligations, the passion for photography remains at the heart of every endeavor. Top tip of the the day. Always have a back-up plan. No planning survives initial contact with the enemy. You’re on your own and have to improvise. What can go wrong, will go wrong, so prepare for this.

Mapping Out the Journey:

Finally, planning the route to my destination adds an element of anticipation to the journey. Do I have to drive for miles, and will there be a loo somewhere on the way? How will I be able to acquire snacks? Are there any small producers that might need a client? I mean I don’t always think about food, but when you live in a country known for the quality of its produce, and where it is almost a duty to consume on the good stuff, it kind of is… Anyway, make sure you look at where you’re going on a map. And if you’re visiting a historic site or attraction then check the opening times. It has happened before. You turn up to a place and it’s closed, so I went a saw my plan B… The path ahead is filled with possibilities and opportunities for creative exploration.

In conclusion

The art of preparation is an integral part of the photographer’s journey. Balancing personal passion with professional commitment, each outing offers a chance to immerse yourself in the beauty of the world through the lens of a camera, whether it’s under the open sky or amidst the comforting hum of domesticity.