Tag: framing

Photography Philosophy – Part V – Identity and Self-Expression

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A photo doesn’t just show you what’s in front of the camera. It shows you something about whoever’s holding it too. What you point it at, what you wait around for, how you frame the thing, all of that gives you away eventually, whether you meant it to or not.

The selfie question

Take the selfie, probably the most modern version of self-expression going. For some people it’s genuine. For a lot of people it’s a carefully staged little performance for Instagram, hashtag lifestyle, hashtag ootd, hashtag me-myself-and-I. I’m not knocking it exactly, but it does make you wonder how much of it is really self-expression and how much is just performance.

That’s not really what I mean when I talk about photography reflecting who you are, though. Photography’s the one art form where you get to look through the exact same hole I looked through when I pressed the shutter. You’re seeing what I saw, in that instant, and depending on how I’ve edited it afterwards you might catch a bit of whatever was going on in my head at the time too.

Picture two people either side of a coin held up between them. One’s looking at the head, the other’s looking at the tail. Neither of them is wrong, they’re just seeing half the thing. A photograph works a bit like that. What you take from it depends on where you’re standing, and more than that, on everything you’re carrying with you before you even looked at it.

What a photo says about me, whether I like it or not

There’s a shot I took at one of the anti-government demonstrations in Nantes a while back. Someone looking at that could reasonably assume I’ve got strong feelings about French politics. Truth is I was about as neutral as it’s possible to be, I was there for the photograph, not the cause. But the viewer fills that gap in with their own assumptions, and there’s not much I can do about that once the shutter’s gone. I do the same thing looking at other people’s work, so I can hardly complain.

Then there’s the question of why I press the shutter at that exact split second and not a second before or after. Cartier-Bresson had a whole theory about the decisive moment. Mine’s less elegant: I try to clear the frame of anything distracting, get my subject exactly where I want them, or just wait until they walk into the right spot. Means I miss plenty of shots. That’s fine, it’s part of the deal. Has it turned me into some miserable perfectionist? No, thankfully. Do I still push for that extra bit of effort anyway? Yes. Not for me particularly, more for whoever ends up looking at the photo afterwards. Call it professional pride if you like. If you’re going to bother doing something at all, you might as well try and do it properly.

Have I actually changed, though?

I’m honestly not sure my subject matter’s moved on as much as I have. Am I still taking roughly the same photos I always did? Probably, yeah. But I’ve picked up plenty along the way, mostly off YouTube if I’m honest. Forty-odd years since I started, and I’m still learning new things every year, more in the last ten than most of the decades before that. I know more about film now, how to shoot it and develop it properly, and I’ve got a lot better at editing. Worth mentioning I trained in desktop publishing back in 2003, of all things. Twenty-odd years ago, Photoshop, Illustrator, QuarkXpress, the works. Feels like a different life.

New gear and different lenses got me properly into wide angle for a while, enough to get it out of my system, or so I thought at the time. I’ll probably go back to it again at some point, knowing me. Either way it changed how I look at a scene, and I know how to use the distortion now instead of fighting it. It gives a photo a different kind of impact, something a bit more unusual than the standard view, and it’s occasionally the thing that makes a client notice a shot.

Confidence has come the boring way, just from doing it over and over. Getting out with the camera is still the only trick that actually works. Some people might say I lean too much on gear. Maybe. But I’ve put the hours in too, and at some point that earns you a bit of trust in your own eye.

Do I take the same photos now as I did in 1987? In some ways, yes, because whatever’s essentially me still comes through in the picture. Back then I was purely obsessed with nailing the exposure, and I didn’t have a fraction of the technique or the visual references I’ve got now. I was also fifteen. I’m over fifty now. The core of it hasn’t moved much. Everything around it has, same as it would for anyone after thirty-odd years.

Thirty years in France

Something people might not know: I’ve lived in France longer than I lived in the UK. Has that got into my photography somewhere? Maybe. Probably, actually.

France gave the world Cartier-Bresson and Doisneau, and their street work still gets me every time, that deceptive simplicity that looks effortless and clearly wasn’t. I’d be lying if I said that hasn’t rubbed off on me. It’s there in how I look at Nantes, walking around with a camera, feeling like they’re somewhere just behind my shoulder. Subject matter shifts country to country too. The UK and France don’t hand you the same photos at all.

Doesn’t stop there either. I’ve picked up just as much from photographers online. Sean Tucker, Thomas Heaton, James Popsys, Mango Street, Peter McKinnon, and Jamie Windsor, that lot have all left a mark one way or another. Not a single Frenchman on that list, which says more about me than about French YouTubers. I speak French all day at work and everywhere outside my front door. By the time I’m home I want my own language back. That’s a me thing, not a them thing.

So does the camera show who I am? Some of it, probably more than I control. My photos say something about how careful I am, or I’m not, about being fair to what’s in front of me, about which places pull at me, Nantes streets, French light, and about which photographers I’ve let get under my skin. I don’t think that adds up to some tidy answer about identity. It’s more that every roll I shoot is a little bit of evidence, and I’m not always the one who gets to read it. Maybe that’s the interesting part. I’ll let you decide what mine says about me.

Also in this series: Part I — An Introduction  ·  Part II — Why Do We Photograph?  ·  Part III — The Emotions of Photography  ·  Part IV — The Art of Storytelling  ·  Part V — Identity & Self-Expression  ·  Part VI — Connection Through Photography  ·  Part VII — The Philosophy of Impermanence  ·  Conclusion

The Opening of the Film Archives – On the way to work

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Sometimes we can have a tendency to ignore our habitual surroundings as photographers.  In this series of photos from the film archive, I’m going to show you part of the route I use to go to work.  What is ordinary to one person might be an pastoral idyl to somebody else.  It only goes to show that there is beauty everywhere in this world and one of our roles as photographers is to document it for future generations.

My wife, bless her, has always said that my black and white photos have a timeless feel to them, be they in the city or out here in the country.  I think that using film, especially this grainy HP5 Plus, even shot at box speed, adds to that sentiment.  The fact that I used Rodinal as my developer might have accentuated the grain too.  Also don’t forget that this is the beginning of my return to film development so I might have been a little vigorous in my “agitations” whilst developing the film.  I now use mostly Ilfosil 3 and lower grain film, and have brought a little more “calm” to my “agitations.”

The camera that day was the FED 5 rangefinder camera from Ukraine.  I’ve talked about it before, and although I mainly use SLRs, I still feel guilty about not using it more.  It’s a beautiful camera and I don’t want it to feel neglected.  I might just have to correct that soon.

I lived just outside Paris for 7 years before moving out to the country in 2001.  The change in ambiance was startling.  I went from blocks of flats to village life in the French countryside.  I went from riding the metro, and suburban Parisian trains, to learning to drive though this beautiful landscape.  Driving through this scenery still gets me every time I get into the car.  I wonder what I’ll see.  I see the changes in the fields and countryside through the seasons.

I want you to promise me, Dear Reader, that you will take a closer look at your route to work, and maybe I can convince you to record it too for prosperity.  Don’t worry about film or camera, even just using your phone will do the trick.

Manual Mastery – a beginner’s guide Part I

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How many times have I seen grown men go to pieces at the suggestion of using manual mode?  Or worse, how many times have I seen other grown men saying that to be a real photographer you have to master manual mode otherwise you’re not a real photographer?  Let me assure you that it’s not as complicated as it sounds.  When I took my first  photography lessons in 1984, I learnt it as a child.  You’ve got this, and I’m here to accompany you through the process.   As the Hitchkiker’s Guide so elegantly says, in comforting letters, “Don’t Panic!”

There are some basic concepts to understand, the first of which is the exposure triangle which we were introduced to in the Photography 101 article. Those three things to consider are, ISO, or film sensitivity, shutter speed, aperture, and balancing them together.

Are you ready?  We’ll go step by step telling you how each of these settings influence your shot, and how we will balance them to create the image that “you” want instead of the image that your “camera” wants to take.  You are the creative boss after all.  And that is the reason that people use Manual Mode.

ISO, or film sensitivity

When I started learning photography in the last century was I was a young boy, yes I was young once, we only had film as a means to capture our images.  You would choose your film in function of the light available.  And when using my film cameras I still work in this way.  100 ASA (which is the same as ISO on modern camera) for sunny conditions, sometimes even 50 ASA, where the film can be used in bright conditions, going through to 200 ASA when it’s cloudy, but with sun shining through, to 400 ASA when overcast, 800 ASA when inside or even 1600 ASA, to 3200 ASA for night photography.  

In the film days we would talk about the presence or absence of grain and this was part of the deal.  You would get less grain the lower down the ASA range you went, and more grain the further up you went.  And this grain was a result of the crystals on the film emulsion, and the chemical developing process.  The choice could be as much about lighting conditions as an artistic decision.  Once the film you chose was in the camera however, it didn’t change until you changed your film.

Nowadays with all this modern technology palaver, you can change this ISO (because it’s digital photography) and change it for each photo.  Unfortunately the higher up you go in these values, the more “noise” you will get.  This digital noise is in a random pattern and totally unlike the grain of film photography.

Shutter speed

Shutter speed, as the words suggest, is about the speed of which the shutter opens  and closes to expose either the film or camera’s sensor.  You see, I told you that this would be simple to understand.  If I can get it, then so can you.  So now we’re on to speed.  When changing the speed of which the light hits the film or the shutter, I can freeze motion, of get a conscious motion blur, where the photo will seem animated.

Let’s say I want to take a photo of somebody running towards me. I will use a higher shutter speed to freeze the action.  Think of sports photography, of catching a  pass of a ball in rugby, or a footballer stopping a ball etc.  Those factors will make or break your image.  Imagine a photo of a football match and you can’t see the ball because it’s going faster than your shutter.  It might not work out for you.  In this situation, on my film cameras I will let the shutter curtain open for just 1/1000th of a second.  Depending on which digital camera I can go as quick as 1/8000 th of a second.

Let’s go to the other extreme.  I’m taking photos of a landscape and I want to show the motion of trees in the wind, the movement of the clouds, or the movement of water. I will use a longer shutter speed, say anything from 1/8th of a second to one second…  The subject will be moving faster than the shutter curtain, and I will get that artistic blur. 

I could be somewhere very dark, so in order to get a clear photo, I will have to let more light through onto my film or sensor.There I might have to use bulb mode in order to leave the shutter curtain for longer than 2 seconds.

For shooting a subject walking I would use 1/125th to 1/250th of a second to freeze the frame.  When using a flash in manual mode, I would aim to be around 1/60th of a second (which depends on your camera’s flash sync value).  When talking about shutter speeds I’m thinking of my film cameras  and bearing in mind that most digital cameras will have wider ranges of shutter speed.  Another tip for you would be to not let your shutter speed go below the number of your focal length (the legendary reciprocal rule).  Let’s say I’m using a 50mm lens, then I would not use a speed under 1/50th of a second, or even 1/60th of a second.  If I have a 200mm lens I would not go under 1/200th of a second. This is to counterbalance the weight of the lens and avoid lens shake.

Conclusion

This article has a lot of information in it and I have decided to separate everything and have a Part II.  In this Part I we have talked about sensitivity to light be that film, and the different ratings of films for various lighting situations.  In digital photography we have a wider range of ISO settings and with the newer cameras, the noise in an ISO 3200 setting will produce a much less grainy image than with film.  However this “grain” can be used as an artistic choice and I will let “you” experiment and see what each film gives you.

We have talked about shutter speed, and the ability to freeze an instant with a higher speed.  And the opposite of this to create motion in our image.

In my next article, we will talk about Aperture and how this effects depth of field and discover the rich creaminess of bokeh.  We will also explore various scenarii and give concrete examples of the effects of this triangle and how to turn it into an advantage.

Also in this series: Manual Mastery Part I  ·  Manual Mastery Part II

Prime Lenses: Elevating Your Photography Beyond the Basics – Part I

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Introduction

This article is a follow on from my last article discussing the various merits of zoom and prime lenses.  Today I’m going to try and give a more indepth look into this world of primes.  The lenses that I will be discussing are my own and I have experience with them.  I will be talking more about how “I” use them and how they affect “my” photography, be that the actual photos or the photographic experience.  All the really techy stuff is available on Google;  I’m trying to give you an idea of the sentiments that I have when using the various lenses.  That said, let’s get into the nitty gritty.  I will go through each lens giving you details on how I use it, how “they” say I should use it, and start from the widest to the longest focal length.  This was turning into a longer article than usual, but since there’s a lot to cover, it will become a two part article.  Again mother, I will be talking shop, so consider yourself warned again… Sounds fair?  Let’s go!

Fisheye lens (TT Artisans 7mm f2.0 manual focus lens)

My fisheye lens (7mm so a 11mm full frame equivalent) is the one I use with my Fujifilm XT2.  It is a super wide lens made by TT Artisans, and its main claim to be included in my collection is that it was affordable.  Or at least affordable compared to some of the lenses out there.  However it doesn’t feel cheap on the camera.  It’s manual focus, but I can focus very closely (minimum focus distance is 0.125 metres) and the whole shot will be sharp.  It’s ultra wide so it gives a great level of distortion, which I love, but others might not.  If you can manage to get your horizon level, then you might not get as much distortion as you could by just raising the view 10° higher than the horizon. I love the effect that I can get from it.  It’s definitely a niche lens, and the price I would have to pay for something similar for my DSLR would be silly money.

Vintage car
Vintage car
Standing Stones in Brittany
my beautiful niece
Nantes Street Photo
Le lieu Unique, Nantes
Le lieu Unique Nantes

16mm f2.0 (Fujifilm brand lens with autofocus 24mm equivalent for full frame lenses)

This was the first lens I bought for my Fujifilm XT2.  This 16mm lens’ full frame equivalent would be 24mm.  Why did I buy it?  Well, I already had a 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F, and thought that the difference between 24mm and 35mm would allow me to go wider and get more into my scene whilst avoiding the distortion of the fisheye lens. A particular outing sticks in my mind and was when I used the lens to take photos of the modern architecture on the Île de Nantes.  The wide angle of view (hence the name wide angle lens) was perfect for this kind of street landscape photography.  Would I use it for close-up portraits?  Only if I want to elongate people when taking a shot from low down on the ground looking up.  Would it be good for classic street photography?  Possibly as a compliment lens to my 35mm equivalent lens on my X100F.  Do I regret acquiring it?  Not at all and I particularly like its wide angle of view.

Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
the bird nest building
Street Crossing
Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
Modern Architecture, Île de Nantes
the bird nest building

28mm f2.0 M42 mount lens for the Praktica MTL 3 film camera

I started my photographic journey with this film camera and only bought this lens much later.  I had my 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty) and this was my first venture into a wider lens.  Could I see a massive difference straight away?  No.  But I no longer felt the need to move further back to get the view I wanted into frame.  Moving back with  a camera on your eye and banging into a building and saying sorry to the building is not the way to go, however British you may be.  The Leica Q (a very sexy little thing) uses this 28mm lens and is aimed at street photographers who have enough money to buy a Leica.  The same goes for the Richo GR II but without the need to sell a kidney.  There is a great debate on the Internet talking about the difference between the 28mm and 35mm lens for street photography, which tries to polarise everyone.  I try to stay as neutral as possible in these kinds of controversies but I do use my 35mm lens more.  Do I still like the 28mm format?  Yes.  Is it very different from the 24mm format?  Not hugely, but I tend to worry less about distortion .  I should probably go out and run a roll of film and see how I feel afterwards.  I remember the need to go in close to avoid capturing too much in the frame with this lens, but that is not a factor that could deter me from using it.

An imposing doorway in Nantes photographed on 28mm film in 2017, demonstrating the wide prime lens perspective in street photography
The Passage Pommeraye shopping arcade in Nantes photographed on 28mm film in 2017, showing the wide prime lens rendering of architectural space
The Passage Pommeraye in Nantes, second view, photographed on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, portrait format
The Passage Pommeraye in Nantes, third view, shot on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, demonstrating the lens's ability in low interior light
A street light at the Place Graslin in Nantes, photographed on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, Nantes street photography
Nantes street photography shot on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, landscape format, showing the wide field of view in an urban setting
Nantes street photography, portrait format, shot on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, demonstrating the character of a wide prime lens
Telegraph wires in Nantes photographed on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, showing how a wide prime handles graphic line compositions
Notre-Dame de Bon Port church in Nantes photographed on a 28mm prime lens on film in 2017, demonstrating wide angle architectural photography

23mm f2.0 (X100F lens equivalent to the 35mm for a full frame camera)

The 35mm lens is the classic for street and documentary photography.  It was the lens used by a majority of newspaper photojournalists in the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s.  This might explain its influence on my own photography.  I remember when the Independent first came out and the high quality of photojournalism.  I think that if Fujifilm decided on the 35mm equivalent for their fixed lens cameras then there’s probably a very good reason for it.  Through my use of the X100F for street and documentary photography I have become very accustomed to the view it gives me of the world.  It’s not just for the street though.  Even as a sole travel lens it allows me to capture details of a trip, as well as wider views to tell my story in more detail. It’s brilliant as a lens for environmental portraits and is wide enough to always give contect in the frame to the main subject.  If you try to do close up photography with portraits you might notice some distortion but if that happens just move ever so slightly backwards, reframe, and the problem should no longer be one.

A street scene in St Brevin-les-Pins, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F with its 23mm prime lens, equivalent to 35mm full frame
Two friends at St Brevin-les-Pins, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens, demonstrating the 35mm equivalent field of view
St Brevin-les-Pins coastal town, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens showing the 35mm equivalent perspective
Landscape photograph at St Brevin-les-Pins, France, shot on a Fujifilm X100F with 23mm prime lens, 35mm equivalent field of view
Two friends at St Brevin-les-Pins, second view, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens
Portrait format street scene at St Brevin-les-Pins, France, shot on a Fujifilm X100F with 23mm prime lens, 35mm full frame equivalent
A scene at St Brevin-les-Pins photographed on a Fujifilm X100F with its fixed 23mm prime lens, showing depth and natural perspective
Wide view of St Brevin-les-Pins seafront, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens, 35mm equivalent
Square format photograph at St Brevin-les-Pins, France, shot on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens showing the versatility of a fixed focal length
A house in Saint-Brevin-les-Pins, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens, 35mm equivalent focal length
Two friends at St Brevin-les-Pins, wide landscape view, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F with 23mm prime lens
A wide panoramic scene at St Brevin-les-Pins, France, photographed on a Fujifilm X100F 23mm prime lens

In my next article, we will go higher up the focal lengths and discuss the narrowing field of view that they offer and explore how they bring the background forwards. As for this article, all the information laid out is equally as valid for film or digital photgraphy.

Also in this series: Prime vs Zoom Lenses  ·  Prime Lenses Part I  ·  Prime Lenses Part II  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part I  ·  Zooming In on Flexibility Part II

Frame It Right: The Art of Composition in Photography Part II

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In my last article, we talked about three of the rules of composition, rule of thirds, leading lines, and symmetry.  We talked about the origins in classical art, as well of how to use them in our photography.  We also explored the implementation of these rules “or guides” and how we should practice each one, master it, and then move on to the next one.  You will still have your photos for the “Gram,” but more importantly, you will be growing as a photographer, gaining experience, and building a body of work.  You will, by definition start becoming more deliberate in capturing your shots, and will be more mindful than somebody just shooting blindly and praying that they get at least on shot!

In this article we will continue to explore certain concepts that be used to make our photographs even more engaging and interesting.  We will explore framing, i.e. using frames with in frames, and the use of negative space, used to isolate of emphasize our subject, and go minimalist.

Framing

When I say the word framing, I’m not talking about the gilded golden frame that you will use to frame your photography to give as gifts to your mother-in-law, but using visual frames inside your image to “frame” your subject…

These examples illustrate how framing can be a powerful tool in photography, guiding the viewer into the image and providing depth and context to the subject or scene being captured. A technique that can make your photos more engaging and immersive.  You can use trees, windows, element on the ground, buildings.  Go out and explore the world around you and try and “frame” your shots.

Negative space

Negative space is the space that surrounds our subject, this empty space or unoccupied space is almost as important as the subject itself.  It’s role is to create balance in the image and adds to the importance of the subject.

Key points

This negative “space” around the subject gives the subject room to breath, and takes away the clutter so we can concentrate on our subject.  It emphasizes the subject and leaves no doubt where the subject is to be found.  For those of you who want a “minimalist” approach to photography, it is one of the best ways to do this.  Less is more after all.  Think of simplicity, tranquillity, and elegance.  It can be used to create mood and atmosphere, and in landscape photography can portray ideas of solitude or freedom.  Think of a vast empty sky and rolling hills.  Negative space doesn’t have to be completely devoid of detail. It can be an area of uniform colour or texture that complements the subject and adds visual interest, or we can use depth of field to emphasize our subject

When using negative space, it’s essential to pay attention to the balance between the subject and the surrounding empty areas. The goal is to create a harmonious composition where the negative space complements and enhances the subject, rather than overpowering it. This technique can lead to powerful and emotionally resonant photographs, adding depth and impact to your work.

When you look at my photos of the girl against the colourful walls in Trentemoult in Nantes, think about how placing the model on the left or right of the frame makes you feel.  Looking forwards or looking backwords… 

Colour Theory

Colour theory is not just for those trendy designers in those advertising agencies.  If you go onto my Instagram feed, you will see that most of my work is predominantly black and white.  “So no colour,” I hear you say.  Well, yes and no.  Black and white photography concentrates on tones, but we can look at colour in the same way and seek balance in our colours.  So what’s this colour wheel then?  Well, it’s a way of looking at colours that go together, like green and red (think of Christmas cards), blue and orange, yellow and purple, all these colour are opposite on the colour wheel. Also, think about complimentary colours that are next to each other on the wheel, such as yellow, light green and dark green.  You will find yourself becoming aware of colours in nature and how they complement each other.  There will be some photographs that depend on this colour for their artistic value, and that won’t work in black and white photography.

Think about the portraits in the previous section and the natural colour in the photos in the country side.

Conclusion

We’ve continued our journey into composition by exploring how to use elements in our photos to frame our subjects. We’ve delved into the concept of negative space, emphasizing our subjects in our images. To conclude, we’ve begun to consider how colour can add harmony to our compositions. My advice is to incorporate these elements into your photography one step at a time. Don’t rush; there’s no need to feel overwhelmed. It’s a lot of information to take in, but as you explore each aspect mindfully, you’ll witness an evolution in your approach. Keep up the excellent work, and I look forward to our next session where we will talk about pattern and repetition, scale and proportion, and depth and layering.

Also in this series: Part I — Rule of Thirds, Leading Lines & Symmetry  ·  Part III — Pattern, Scale & Depth  ·  Part IV — Rule of Odds & Rules of Space