Photography Philosophy – Part V – Identity and Self-Expression


Photography as a Reflection of Self

What could be a more contemporary expression of self than the modern selfie? For some, it represents a genuine connection, while for others, it becomes a carefully curated fantasy shared on Instagram in pursuit of self-importance—think #lifestyle, #ootd, or #memyselfandI. These representations can evoke mixed feelings about the authenticity of self-expression.

However, this is not how I view photography as a reflection of self. Photography is the only art form that allows the viewer to look through the lens just as I did when I pressed the shutter button. You see exactly what I saw in that moment, and, depending on how I edited the photo, you may catch a glimpse of the emotions swirling in my mind at that time.

Consider two people facing each other, a coin held up between them. One sees the heads side, while the other sees the tails. Each perspective offers only a partial view of the whole object, much like how each photograph can convey different meanings and emotions depending on the viewer’s interpretation. This highlights the importance of taking in the entire picture.  But it’s not just this perspective that changes the way each individual looks at the coin, but all the personality and life experience that the person brings.

So, what about the expression of my identity and worldview? You might detect my state of mind through the subject matter of the photograph. If you see one of my photos taken during the anti-government demonstrations in Nantes, you might draw conclusions about my political leanings, when in reality, I was completely neutral about the situation. Here, the viewer adds their own interpretation to what they see, imagining this world and identifying with the picture in a way that is relevant to them.  I think we all are guilty of that.  My worldview, too, may show through—an insight into the world around me and how I choose to see and document it, since you are witnessing a moment in time as I saw it.

But why press the shutter button at a particular moment and not 1 second before, or 1 second after?  Cartier Bresson talked about capturing the decisive moment.  I try and make sure that I have no distracting elements.  I try and get my subject right where I want them, or wait for them to cross the scene at a certain spot.  Does this mean that I miss shots?  Yes, but it’s all part of the game!  Have I become a self-hating perfectionist?  Fortunately, no.  But do I try and make that extra effort?  Definitely.  I owe it to myself, but to the viewer of the resulting photo.  Some might talk about a certain professional conscience, but if you’re going to do something, then try and do your best?

Personal Growth

This is a tricky subject, as I’m not entirely certain that my subject matter has evolved as I have. Am I still taking the same old photos as I used to? Possibly. Yet there are new techniques I’ve picked up along my learning journey. I may have started learning about photography over 40 years ago, but I’ve never stopped. In the last ten years alone, I’ve learnt so much, often with YouTube as my teacher. I’ve expanded my knowledge of film—how to use it and develop it—and I’ve learnt more about editing. I might just mention that I trained in “Desktop Publishing” back in 2003. Twenty years ago… time flies! Lots of Photoshop, Illustrator, and QuarkXpress.

New equipment and different lenses have allowed me to explore wide-angle photography and, as they say, “get it out of my system.” But is it really out, or have I simply explored it enough to satisfy my curiosity for the time being? I will, no doubt, revisit it again. This exploration has clearly shaped the way I view a scene, and I now know how to use the distortion it offers as another stylistic string to my bow. Wide angles enable me to alter how the subject is seen, making a more significant impact on the viewer, who experiences something distinctly out of the ordinary. It’s a small but meaningful addition to my work that could offer that extra something to a potential client.

I’ve grown more confident in my photography over time through consistency and practice. Getting out there with your camera is, without a doubt, the way to go. Some might accuse me of relying on gear, but I feel that I’ve genuinely put the hours in to master certain aspects of this craft and to have a certain self confidence in my abilities as a photographer.

Do I take the  same photos that I did back in 1987 and now?  In certain ways, yes.  Because my personality shines through the photograph.  However back in 1987 I was concerned just about nailing the exposure, and didn’t have the knowledge and photographic culture that I do today in 2024.  I was also a 15 year old back in 1987, and am now over 50.  The essential part of who I am remains, but my life experience has changed me, as it would anyone over 35 years.

Cultural Context

You might not know this about me, but I have lived in France for the last thirty years.  More time than I lived at “home” in the UK.  Has that affected my photography in any way?    Maaaaybe…

France is the home of Cartier Bresson, and Doisneau, and their wonderfully crafted street photography.  Yes, I have explored their work and have been amazed by it, and amazed by the simplicity in certain shots of theirs, but a deceptive simplicity that takes so much time to emulate.  So yes, I have been influenced by French culture. It forms the way I look at the world around me, especially when in the streets of Nantes and I feel their influence accompanying me as I wander around the streets.  It’s also the subject matter that changes from country to country.  Just look at the difference between my two countries, the UK and France.  

But it doesn’t stop there.  I have been influenced by photographers that I see on the Internet.  Names like Sean Tucker, Thomas Heaton, James Popsys, Mango Street, Peter McKinnon, and Jamie Windsor spring to mind and their videos have certainly been a huge influence on me.  And there’s not even one Frenchman in that short list…  It’s not that I reject French youtubers, but when at work I have to make the effort to speak French, when I am outside my house I have to make the effort to speak French, aso when at home I prefer to keep things in my mother tongue.  It’s a me problem, and not a them problem.

Conclusion: The Lens of Self-Reflection

Photography, at its core, is about more than just taking pictures; it’s about capturing fragments of identity and moments of personal evolution. While the images we create may reflect the world around us, they also tell the story of how we see ourselves and the ever-changing lens through which we view the world.

What I’ve come to realise is that photography isn’t just a technical pursuit or a series of compositions—it’s a mirror. Through it, I’ve discovered not only the nuances of the world but the nuances within myself. From the early days of worrying over exposure to now, when the process feels more like a conversation with the scene, I have grown not just as a photographer, but as an individual.

Yet, this growth is never complete. Photography, like life, is a journey with no clear destination. The influences, the techniques, and even the subjects will continue to shift as I evolve. What remains constant is the intention: to connect, to reflect, and to capture not just an image, but a piece of time that speaks to who I am, and who I am becoming.

In the end, photography is an act of constant reinvention. Each shutter press is an opportunity to redefine the self and understand the world a little better, one image at a time.

The Opening of the Film Archives: On va Marcher sur la Lune, Kate


Last week’s journey through the film archives took us to Nantes, specifically the Île de Nantes. While you’ve seen my photos from that day, I’m excited to share my daughter Kate’s photos with you.

Are these images works of art deserving of a gallery? Perhaps not, but they represent a delightful exercise in spontaneity. Captured by a seven-year-old “playing” with a camera, they offer a unique glimpse into how my young daughter sees the world. There are no rigid rules of photography or composition here—just an extension of her eyes. These photos are raw yet delicate, showcasing the world as she perceived it at that moment.

These photos mean a great deal to me, particularly the one she took of me with that glorious moustache! I’ve often discussed how the journey and process of photography can sometimes be even more meaningful than the final destination. That day was a significant part of that journey, and reflecting on my own first photos from that age fills me with nostalgia.

Optimizing Images On-the-Go: Mobile Photography Editing Guide


Introduction

As the title suggests, I will describe my workflow when out and about. While there are surely other ways to do it, this is my method. It works and has stood the test of time. I usually wander around taking photos, then find a café to sit down and transfer my images to my phone. Everything is better with a nice cup of tea (or coffee) and a piece of cake.

Downloading Photos to Your Phone

Most cameras today can connect to phones via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. My two Fujis (X100F and XT2) and my Canon (6D Mark II) certainly can. I enable Wi-Fi on my camera and connect it directly to my phone. Next, I open the corresponding app—Canon Camera Connect for my Canon and Fujifilm Camera Remote for my Fujis. Each manufacturer provides its own app for Android or Apple devices. Once the camera is connected to my phone, I can import my photographs, selecting the images I prefer.

Sorting Photos

Now comes the fun bit: sorting through all those wonderful shots you took and deciding which ones are worth working on and editing. When I transfer my images from my camera to my phone, the phone creates a folder for the imported photos. Different apps will put them in different places, so I’ll leave that to you to manage. As a rule of thumb, you will see them in the gallery app, which will show you your latest photos.

In the gallery app, you can sort your photos by date taken, favourite images, or the place where the photo was taken.

I will assume you have read my last few articles on Photography 101, composition, and the types of lenses available and how to use them, or at least how I use them. If you haven’t had that pleasure, then go and have a read…

Is the photo worthy of publication, and are you happy with it representing your talent as a photographer? Is the image in focus? Is the image well exposed? Does it fulfil its storytelling role? Will it add to your narrative? Or simply, do you like it enough to want to share it?

Let’s assume that you answered yes. You then get to share your image to Snapseed.

Editing in Snapseed

Starting with Styles:

I like to begin by using the “Portrait” style. It is a preset that gives the photo a subtle glow and some vignette. I just seem to like it, and when you have something you like that flatters your image, you are tempted to stick with it. Most times, this will work a treat on well-exposed images. But let’s imagine that you have exposed for the highlights and that your shadows are “too dark” and you want to bring them up a bit. Then I would go to the “Tools” section and use the Tune Image.

En aparté:

When exposing in digital photography, we expose for the highlights, as it is easy to lighten, or “bring up” the shadows, and we don’t want to “blow out” our highlights and just turn it into a mass of white. In film photography, it’s the opposite. We expose for the shadows, as film has more difficulties capturing details in the shadows especially in a photo with lots of light.

Using the Tools

As I inferred in the title, this is my workflow, and shows the way I use Snapseed. There’s a whole load of tools to stylise your image and to completely change the look of it, but I’m more of a “less is more” disciple when editing. Also most apps out there will have similar tools, so you can carry this knowledge with you across the board.

Crop Tool:

One thing I learnt early one is to KISS, i.e. Keep it simple stupid. Sometimes I will have an element in my photo that distracts from my subject. With the crop tool I can just crop the image and make it disappear. I can also use the crop tool to format the image to fit certain social media post settings. I’m thinking about you Instagram and Facebook. Try searching google for social medi formats and you will be inundated with results.

Healing Tool:

Sometimes the crop isn’t enough to take away distracting elements from our photo. You might have a beautiful shy and want to get rid of that Jumbo Jet in the sky. One way of doing that is to wait until the Jumbo Jet has flown away, but let’s say that it’s too late… Using the healing tool will clone part of the image and replace the Jumbo Jet that just wants to noticed and validated man! To get the best results it’s better to zoom into the image and have a smaller area to work on.

Tune Image:

This is where I do the basic edits, bringing up the shadows or bringing down the highlights. I usually keep it to that. At a push, I will bring up the brightness if the photo has been underexposed. Somtimes I will add a little contrast but I tend not to use the other tools. I don’t want to denautre the photograph.

Rotate Tool:

We should always try and keep our horizons straight, except when making the conscious decision not to. The rotation tool tries to straighten what it thinks should be straight. It generally works quite well, but you do have total control as well as a grid to check the lines in your photo.

Brush Tool:

This is where we can do our burning and dodging. You can choose to highlight a certain area and darken others to emphasise your subject. This brings the photo to life. There are tutorials galore on YouTube that go into more detail than I will in this “basics” article.

Black and White Tool:

Welcome to the world of black and white conversion. It’s a process that a majority of my photography goes through. You can, of course, just use the saturation tool in the “Tune Image” section, and you will get a monochrome image. But you can do so much more.

So, let’s do so much more. The black and white tool offers you some presets which might correspond to your taste. I tend to leave them alone and instead press on the circle that will give a series of colour filters to choose from. This is a direct link back to black and white film photography, and you know how much I love that. I love using the red filter, which, as in film photography, will make your blues darker. This is beautiful for those landscape photos where you want a dark sky to complement those fluffy white clouds.  It’s also my default film simulation on the X100F that I use for all my street photography.  It’s just a look that I fell in love with years ago.
The other common filters are all covered too.

  • Orange:  Orange filters give stronger effects than  yellow filters but are not as bold and dramatic as a red. It is therefore an ideal choice to span the effects given by both these filters.  Blue skies will be recorded in very dark tones on the print, giving bold contrast between the sky and clouds. An orange filter will also penetrate haze and fog. Most flowers will be recorded with a significant difference in tone from the surrounding foliage giving impact and effect.
  • Yellow, the general purpose black and white filter,
  • Green:  When photographing foliage in black and white, a green filter is used almost exclusively.  It lightens green foliage, which is particularly important with dark green leaves which can record very dark without a filter. It therefore gives a more natural, lighter feel to the photograph.
  • Blue: A blue filter is not often associated with black & white photography however, it can really add “mood” to a photograph by increasing the effect of haze or fog.  It also lightens blues and darkens yellows, oranges and reds which helps separation in scenes containing a mix of colours.

Export

You have two options.  You can either press on “done” and Snapseed will record your image in the Snapseed folder and in your gallery in the Album neamed Snapseed, or you you can press “share “and you will be presented with various options on how to share your image, to Instagram, via gmail etc.

Before you do that you can press on settings where you can change the resolution of the image that will be exported.  This can help if you need to reduce the image to take up less space on your phone, or if you’re loading the photo up to a website and you require a “lighter” image.

Conclusion

You now have an idea about how I edit my images on the go, and the more time goes on, the more I do it this way.  Is it the same as Lightroom on my computer?  No.  I can’t have as much control as in Lightroom. I can’t batch edit, I can’t do this or that, but I can manage without, especially on the go.  There are of course other options for photo editing on the go like Lightroom mobile,VSCO, your native photo editor app on your phone.  As I said at the beginning of the article this is how “I” do things.  It works for me.  Try it out and it might just work for you too!

Frame It Right: The Art of Composition in Photography Part I


In my last article we talked about exposure, and balancing the elements that form the “exposure triangle”, i.e. the sensitivity of the film that we’re using, of the ISO setting on our camera sensor, the shutter speed, i.e. how long we let the light hit the film, or camera sensor, and aperture, i.e. the size of the hole that light comes through measured in F-Stops.  When these elements are in perfect osmosis, we should get a decently exposed photograph. 

Introduction to composition principles

Now we shall take this knowledge and build upon it with notions of composition, i.e. how we will organise the elements in our photograph.  Sometimes we have control of where these elements are, for example when creating a still life image.  Other times we have no control whatsoever and just have to move ourselves instead.  The way we do this is by thinking about our “Composition.”

As humans we are all guided by rules, some universally moral, some defined by the country we live in (like in France where they seem to be forbidden to make a decent up of tea), and Art is no exception.  There are rules in Art that make an image pleasing naturally to the eye, and, believe it or not, these “rules” have been around for a long time.  Now I hear you little rebels sat at the back of the classroom near the radiator saying how you don’t live by rules, and that you break every rule in the book.  And I have no problem with that.  I would however suggest you learn the “rules of composition” first and then, and only then break them knowingly.

Photography is art made with light, and the first photographers were heavily influenced by the art and paintings in the local Art Galleries.  They therefore had a very “classical” notion of composition.  I want you to imagine those massive oil paintings in a gold frame showing a Victorian gentleman looking over the top of a waterfall, framed by the forests, and still looking so dapper.

The Rule of thirds

This is one the first things that people will talk about when talking about composition.  The idea, as the name suggests is to divide a photo equally into thirds horizontally and vertically, and put the point of interest (subject) where the lines intersect.  Or you could have a landscape photo where sky will take up two thirds of the photograph and the foreground the other third.  In editing software, when framing you shot they will put a three by three grid on your photo automatically.  Some digital cameras allow the use of this grid inside the viewfinder.  When taking a portrait you would ideally have the eye where the lines cross.  Yes Ian, but this has been done, done, and done again, and has become a cliché I hear you say.  Possibly, but it works mate!  Don’t knock it.  As I said earlier, learn the rule, master using the rule, and then you might consider breaking the rule, but it will be a conscious decision and above all, deliberate.  But it will permit a pleasing and natural result.

Leading Lines and Perspective

Leading lines are lines that lead the eye into the photograph, turning it into something dynamic.  The lines will converge on a certain point in the image, which, if you want, can be on the grid that I described in the last section.  This point is the vanishing point, and give geometrical forms to your image, and can lead to the subject of you photo.  When using straight lines,you can emphasis to shapes in architecture and acquire a very “graphic” image.  Using a wide angled lens or even a fish eye lens will emphasize these line even further and the distortion of these lenses will add even more interest to your image.  I will talk about the most common lenses in a future article.  We’re not there yet. The lines don’t have to be straight, they can be curved or S shaped.  Think of a winding road in the countryside.  Whichever version you use, there will be a feeling of being drawn in to the scene. 

In the first photograph of the original Pegasus Bridge all the lines converge to a central point with a person standing which gives us an idea of the scale of the bridge.  These straight geometrical lines give a feeling of stability and solidity. 

In the second photograph, we can see an image that uses an S curve, and as you can see, the effect is totally different.  More subtle, but they eye is still drawn in to the image.

 Leading lines can appear in nature and in the landscape.  Look at the way that the tree line and lines in the mountains converge on a specific part of the photograph and show the different layers of the photograph. 

I seem to use them in quite a few of my photos, and with time, you won’t even have to seek them out.  You will be lead…

Symmetry in photography

In last week’s article we talked about exposure and how it is a balancing act between the three elements: film sensitivity, aperture, and shutter speed. We can find this symmetry in our compositions too. 

Symmetry in photography is a fundamental principle that enhances the visual impact of images. It involves balancing elements on both sides of a central axis or point. There are various types of symmetry, including horizontal, vertical, radial, and bilateral, each offering unique opportunities for creating appealing compositions. Symmetry naturally draws the viewer’s eye, adds stability, and is particularly useful in architectural, landscape, and macro photography. However, breaking symmetry with a contrasting element can introduce tension and creativity. By framing subjects thoughtfully, adjusting camera angles, and recognizing symmetry in both natural and man-made subjects, photographers can master this powerful tool for captivating compositions.

In summary, symmetry in photography is about creating balance and harmony through the arrangement of elements within the frame. It provides a sense of order, highlights patterns, and engages viewers, while also allowing for creative deviations when necessary to convey a specific message or emotion.

Conclusion

Firstly let’s not be fixated by these rules. I was right to describe them as “guides” to composition.  Talking about them is fine, but we have to put them into action.  Don’t try to do them all at once.  Take one rule.  Look at it closely.  Think how can I use this one rule?  How can I master it, or at least take it on board.  When you think that is is engrained into your mind, then start using a different concept.  I can’t stress that when learning, take your time.  Let the concept become second nature.   

There will be occasions when you feel that you are no longer advancing in your composition, but stick at it.  You will not obtain mastery after just one outing.  I’ve been doing this for 40 years and am still learning something new each time I go out with my camera.  People talk about being on a photographic journey, and that is a very good way of looking at it.  You can’t run before you can walk.  Don’t let yourself be overwhelmed by what you might see on Instagram, or even on this blog.  We are all at different places on this path.

In next week’s episode we will explore framing, negative space, colour theory, texture.  There will be a third article to cover pattern and repetition, scale and proportion, depth and layering.  There are so many points to talk about in composition that we may even have a fourth article but we’re not there yet! 

See you next week.  Until then, keep shooting!

The Art of Visual Note-Taking in Photography: Lessons from a Reflective Portrait


A Glimpse into Visual Note-Taking

Photography is more than just capturing perfect portfolio shots. It’s a journey of exploration, experimentation, and personal growth. In this article, we’ll delve into the world of visual note-taking with your camera, drawing inspiration from a poignant black and white portrait capturing a moment shared between a father and his son.

The photograph that serves as our muse in this exploration is a black and white portrait taken within the confines of an elevator. It’s a seemingly ordinary setting, yet it holds within it the essence of visual note-taking. In the center of the frame, my son stands, gazing intently into the elevator’s mirror.

This image isn’t just about following the rule of thirds, although it does so with remarkable precision. What truly sets it apart is the subtle yet profoundly impactful detail: my own reflection, almost ethereal, lingers in the mirror behind my son. It’s a moment frozen in time, a visual note that encapsulates a father’s perspective and a son’s curiosity.

Lessons Learned Through the Lens

This visual note, seemingly unassuming, has been a source of profound lessons in my photographic journey:

1. The Dance of Composition: The deliberate use of the rule of thirds here isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about orchestrating a visual symphony. The composition invites viewers to explore the depths of the image, guiding their eyes from my son’s contemplative gaze to the faint presence of my reflection. It’s a testament to the power of composition in storytelling.

2. The Narrative Thread: Photography is storytelling with light, and this image narrates a journey. It’s not merely a reflection in a mirror; it’s a snapshot of our journey from the subterranean depths of an underground carpark to the bustling life of the city streets above. It captures the transient nature of existence, reminding us that every moment is a story waiting to be told.

3. The Reflective Element: The mirror within the elevator introduces an intriguing layer of reflection and perspective. It turns an ordinary scene into a canvas for creativity, showcasing the hidden depths within seemingly confined spaces. It’s a reminder that as photographers, we should always be attuned to the opportunities around us, even in the most mundane settings.

4. Emotion Unveiled: Portraits are vessels of emotion and connection. My son’s expression, captured in this visual note, reflects a myriad of feelings—contemplation, curiosity, or perhaps a touch of wonder. These emotions breathe life into the photograph, making it relatable and evocative.

The Journey Continues

This visual note is more than just a photograph; it’s a reflection of my evolving perspective as a photographer and a father. It’s a testament to the idea that within the ordinary, we can find the extraordinary. It speaks to the profound lessons we can draw from visual note-taking in photography.

As you embark on your own photographic journey, remember that each click of the shutter is a note in the symphony of your experience. Visual notes may not always be destined for your portfolio, but they are the heartbeats of your creative exploration. They are reminders of where you’ve been and stepping stones to where you’re going.

Capture the journey, one visual note at a time. Your next revelation may be just a click away.

The following photos, or should I say visual notes, we’re taken over two September Saturdays with my Fujifilm X100f. What did you take away from these visual notes?