I want it, but do I really need it?


The camera gear industry is a powerful beast and it tries to convince us that this piece of kit, that is conveniently in stock, will help you become that photographer that you are destined to be.  Be that in magazines, be that in youtube influencer videos that “try out the camera” that the manufacturer has just lent us to show you what it’s like.  I’ve watched loads of these videos especially when thinking about the kit I wanted to buy.  Come on in and I’ll make sure you have the best camera possible, and the best possible lens.  What’s your budget?  OK, I’m sure we can work something out.  What kind of photography do you want to do?  Well, you’ll need this, and this, and this, etc.

That nice man in the shop will be more than happy to take your money and sell a high end camera that will be a thing of beauty.  But look at the title again.  “I want it, but do I really need it?”  You have fallen into their trap.  I’m not trying to put down these sales people, and their wealth of knowledge, but know that there are other options out there.

I’m going to dare say it.  You don’t need the latest and greatest equipment to take great photos.  Instead prioritise value, and mindful shooting, over gear acquisition.  Think about boys and toys.  I get exactly the same feeling as you when I enter a camera store.  I want it all.  Of course I do.  Who doesn’t?  But,what would my wife say?  What would my bank manager say?  What would reason tell me instead of letting my emotions get the better of me?  Can I really justify this acquisition?  Do I really need it, or is there a less onerous solution?  I know.  I’ve just pissed on your bonfire, but it’s time for a reality check here…

So what can I do about that?  You can realise that there is a huge market of second hand gear out there.  I have taken this route in the past and have no regrets.  Yes, I did it my way…

Where do you go to discover all these hidden gems?  There is of course E-Bay, that huge online auction site which I used to acquire the majority of my film cameras.  When I was a customer of the site the film cameras were fairly cheap, since those pesky hipsters hadn’t cottoned on to the fact that film photography is cool.  So yes, each purchase was a gamble, but I had less money to lose, and the return would be greater.  The old cameras were simpler, the lenses were great, and there are still lots of examples of reasonable cameras out there.  Would I use it for digital?  Probably not.  I’m not really a gambling man, and don’t have a huge wad of cash that I am willing to possibly waste.

But E-Bay is not the only option.  There are various online sites such as mpb.com that have a very good reputation, and have tested each piece of equipment that they sell.  They give you an honest appraisal of the piece of kit and are honest about the state of said piece of kit.  They guarantee each purchase, and have a generous returns policy.  I might consider using it if I were interested in buying some new kit.  But at the moment I’m not.  There are also second hand areas of our beloved camera shops that will have used gear.  

When buying second hand, you will generally be spending less money, or at worst, getting more kit for your hard earned cash.  Older models of camera might not be as super duper as the latest models that look so sexy in that shop window, but for what most us mere mortals need, they are more than adequate.   You really have to look at which features are most important to you.  Thanks to you, there will be one less camera going to landfill.

Talking of features, let’s talk about the 80/20 rule.  For 80% of your photographs, you will use about 20% of your gear, and features on your camera. I urge you to identify the essential features for your type of photography (e.g., autofocus, image stabilisation, dynamic range), and maybe avoid spending money on features or lenses that you won’t use frequently.  Shutter speed when doing sports photography, or high dynamic range for landscape photography.  Is an F1.2 lens really what you need, or will F2.0 pr F2.8 still get the effect you want?

I’m going to talk about the X100F (again!) and compare it to the latest version from Fujifilm, the X100V and the X100VI

FeatureFujifilm X100FFujifilm X100VFujifilm X100VI
Sensor24.3MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS III26.1MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 440.2MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 5 HR Sensor
Lens23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent)23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent) with improved optics23mm f/2 (35mm equivalent) with further improved optics
Autofocus91-point hybrid autofocus425-point hybrid autofocus with improved face/eye detection425-point hybrid autofocus with further improved face/eye detection and subject tracking
ViewfinderHybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic)Hybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic) with improved EVFHybrid viewfinder (optical/electronic) with a larger and higher resolution EVF
Screen3-inch fixed LCD3-inch tilting touchscreen3-inch tilting touchscreen
Image StabilisationN/AN/A6-Stop In-Body Image Stabilization
Video1080p up to 60fps4K up to 30fps6.2K (cropped) and 4K up to 30fps
Weather SealingNoYesYes
Price (approx.)€800-€1000 (used)€1300-€1500 (used)€1700-€1800 (new)

Key Takeaways:

  • Sensor: The X100VI offers a significant resolution upgrade with its 40.2MP sensor, providing greater detail and flexibility for cropping compared to the X100V and X100F.
  • Lens: All three models share the same focal length, but the X100V and X100VI feature improved lens designs for better sharpness and close-focus performance.
  • Autofocus: The X100V and X100VI offer a substantial upgrade in autofocus points and performance compared to the X100F, making them better suited for fast-moving subjects and low-light situations.
  • Viewfinder: The X100VI has the most advanced viewfinder with a larger, higher resolution electronic viewfinder (EVF) and improved refresh rate.
  • Screen: The X100V and X100VI have tilting touchscreens, which can be helpful for composing shots from awkward angles, while the X100F has a fixed screen.
  • Video: The X100VI boasts the most advanced video capabilities, offering 6.2K recording with a crop, while the X100V is limited to 4K, and the X100F to 1080p.
  • Weather Sealing: Both the X100V and X100VI offer weather sealing, making them more durable in adverse conditions compared to the X100F.
  • Price: The X100F remains the most affordable option, especially on the secondhand market. The X100V offers a good balance of features and price, while the X100VI is the most expensive but comes with the latest technology.

Ultimately, the choice depends on your budget, needs, and priorities. If you need the highest resolution and advanced video features, the X100VI is the way to go. If you prioritize value and portability, the X100F is still a great option. The X100V sits in the middle, offering a good balance of features and price.

If you are a professional, then I think the same logic will apply.  Even though a nice kit is an investment you need to consider the returns on your investment?  Is the purchase justified and will it bring more work for you?  Will it expand my offer enough?  If you are an amateur, then you can spend any amount of money you want, but if you could do more, with less, wouldn’t that be an appealing option? Have I not managed to convince you yet? Look at the film archives… And look at the pictures from the X100F

Zooming In on Flexibility Part I


We’ve talked about prime lenses and the difference between primes and zooms.  But we haven’t touched on zooms.  Yet.  But we’re about to enter the dark side.  They have cookies.  So now that we’ve had a cookie, let’s talk about having our cake and eating it.  Metaphorically speaking of course.  

The ability to zoom in on a subject, be it in photography or in conversation has become such an ubiquitous saying.  Zooming in on the details in a conversation.  The image evoked is fair though.  A zoom lens allows us to zoom in visually. 

I might even go as far as to describe them as a guilty pleasure.  That kind of thing that gets results but leaves you feeling a little dirty afterwards, and you feel like you have to justify why you couldn’t just use a purer prime.  Well sometimes you need the versatility of a zoom.  It means you have to take less kit to weigh you down.

This article started as a single piece of writing, and then going more in depth, it has morphed into a series of two articles.  I have a lot of information for you, and it might be easier to digest as a two part story.

The Zoom lens work flow

A zoom lens is more than an investment, it is akin to having four lenses in one support.  One going from 16mm, 24mm, 28mm to 35mm, another from 24mm, to 35mm, to 35mm, to 50mm, and onwards and upwards to 70mm.  Roughly translated you’re getting more glass for your buck, which sounds very enticing.

Advantages and disadvantages

 As in all photography, everything is a matter of balance though.  Ok, you may have more glass, but instead of creamy f1.8, f2.0 creamy bokeh, the trade off will be f4 bokeh, while still nice isn’t as creamy.  You might find f2. Bokeh but you’ll be paying many more bucks.  The difference in price between the Canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM and the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM is around 1000€ which doubles the price of your lens.  This basic economics speaks volumes to me.  

The different focal lengths in just one place allows you to adapt more quickly to a changing situation rather than “faffing” about changing multiple lenses multiple times.  Just one turn of the focal ring, and you’re good to go.  So you’re more available to contemplate a scene and not miss a thing.

They are generally larger than the more subtle nifty fifty, and the general public will take you for a “pro” and wonder why you are pointing a massive obtrusion towards their face.  Some zooms are of course less imposing than others, but you might have to explain more about what you are doing.  

The types of Zooms  

I have talked about the concept of a zoom lens as being a collection of different lenses in just one lens.  In the next article I will describe the example of each zoom I  use, but here I will do the introductions.  We don’t want to get ahead of ourselves.

For me, there are three types of zooms, the wide angle, the general, and the telephoto.  So three types of zoom tend towards three types of application.

The wide angle zoom offers you a wide angle of view, and its downfall of image distortion can be made the most important feature allowing you a means of getting creative in your images.   You can go from those beautiful vistas so beloved of landscape photographers, to those of us who seem to have an obsession with taking close-up photos of bicycles and helping the audience see the world in a more non-conventional or even exciting way.  

The general zoom, is as its name suggests a zoom that has you covered for general scenarii.  The focal lengths are the ones most commonly used.  It’s great in a street photography or documentary environment allowing you to easily glide between wider and narrower views.  Even though the aperture may not be as important as in primes, the image stabilisation helps the photographer when the light becomes more challenging. 

The telephoto zoom allows us to be closer to our subject whilst at the same time being a greater distance.  Useful not only for wildlife photography, but also for sports photography where the players are on the pitch and not the photographer!

Conclusion

Now we are on the same page and have a greater idea of what the whole situation is and how these solutions can help you as a photographer, be that a beginner, an intermediate, or a more advanced photog.  I talk about guilty pleasure, but when push comes to shove, the viewer of your photography doesn’t care.  They care about the image and how it makes them feel.  The fact that we used such and such a  lens is just speaking to them in a foreign language.  We’ve talked about the trade offs but also the benefits of zooms and in my next article I will talk about my set-ups and the experiences I have when shooting with these lenses..