Tag: Photography gear

Photography 101: What Nobody Tells You About the Basics

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Why Photography?

Hello, Dear Reader,

I’ve decided to take some advice and start a series of articles focused purely on photography. You may already know how photography has impacted my life, and perhaps you’re hoping to discover something similar for yourself. This isn’t a formal course, and the advice I share comes from my own experiences over the years. My aim here is to offer you a useful reference point as you begin or continue your own photographic journey.

Let’s assume you’re new to photography and want to move beyond using your phone’s camera. You’re ready for a “real” camera. Does that sound about right?

From time to time, people approach me and say, “Ian, what’s the deal with photography? How do I get photos like yours?” That’s when my imposter syndrome likes to make an appearance. But despite that, I’m here to share what I know.

To begin, you’ll need a camera. I know it can feel overwhelming, especially if you’ve glanced at the price of a Leica and wondered if it’s worth selling a kidney. (Pro tip: hold off on that.) Leicas are beautiful, but you don’t need to break the bank to get started.

Any camera within your budget is a good starting point, especially if it allows you to control settings manually. Whether you choose film or digital, the fundamentals remain the same. Do you want the retro charm of a Canon AE1, the compact style of a Fujifilm X100F, or perhaps a more professional DSLR? The choice is yours, but remember: the camera is just a tool. It’s how you use it that matters. I’ve written some camera reviews you can check out, and I plan to add more in the future.

Now, let’s talk about the basics.

Exposure Basics

Photography is essentially about light—how much of it reaches your camera’s sensor (or film) and how it interacts with your subject. Too much light, and your image will be “overexposed” (too bright). Too little light, and it will be “underexposed” (too dark). You can, of course, play with these elements intentionally, using over- or underexposure to highlight specific areas of your shot. Photographers often talk about exposing for the highlights or shadows to get the right balance. In film photography we will expose for the shadows and in digital photography we expose for the highlights.

How do I control the light?

It all comes down to balancing three key elements, often called the “Exposure Triangle”: ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Adjust one, and you’ll need to compensate with the others. Let’s go through each of these in turn.

Diagram of the exposure triangle showing the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO
The three variables every photographer learns to negotiate. Get one wrong and the other two will tell you about it

Understanding ISO

ISO controls your camera’s sensitivity to light, crucial for getting the right exposure in your photographs. In film photography, it’s referred to as ASA, but the principle remains the same.

  • Lower ISO Settings (100-400): Ideal for bright conditions, such as sunny days, as they produce images with minimal grain or “noise.” For example, using ISO 100 outdoors on a clear day will give you crisp, clear shots.
  • Moderate ISO Settings (400-800): These settings are suitable for cloudy days or indoor lighting. Using ISO 400 allows you to capture good quality images without excessive grain, but expect some visibility of noise when using ISO 800 in dimmer conditions.
  • Higher ISO Settings (1600 and above): Perfect for low-light situations, such as indoors or nighttime photography. While ISO 1600 can help you capture images without a flash, be prepared for more noticeable grain. ISO 3200 can be used for very low light, but expect significant grain in the final image.

Modern digital cameras handle higher ISO settings much better than older film cameras did, significantly reducing noise even at higher values. The key takeaway is to experiment with different ISO settings to see how they affect your shots. Don’t hesitate to adjust your ISO based on the lighting conditions—higher sensitivity can make a big difference in capturing those special moments.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed determines how long the sensor (or film) is exposed to light. A fast shutter speed—like 1/500th or 1/2000th of a second—will freeze motion, but it lets in less light, so you may need to increase your ISO to compensate. Slower shutter speeds (1/60th of a second or lower) let in more light but can cause motion blur or camera shake. If you’re handholding the camera, try to stay above 1/60th of a second. If you’re using a longer lens, say 85mm, you may want to use 1/100th of a second or faster to avoid shake.

For stability with slower shutter speeds, a tripod is your friend. Just bear in mind that vintage cameras often have lower maximum shutter speeds, but those quirks deserve their own chapter.


Aperture and depth of field

Aperture controls how wide the lens opens to let light in, and it’s measured in f-stops. A smaller f-stop number (like f/2.0) means a wider aperture, which lets in more light and creates a shallower depth of field—ideal for those portraits with a soft, blurry background. A higher f-stop (like f/16) means a smaller aperture, which lets in less light but keeps more of the scene in focus—perfect for landscapes.

Aperture not only affects the amount of light coming through but also how much of your image appears sharp. The trick is finding the right balance for the look you’re aiming to achieve.

Conclusion

One of the great things about digital cameras is that you can experiment with these settings without worrying about the cost of film. You can see the results immediately and make adjustments on the fly. Most digital cameras offer different modes to help you control the exposure. For example, “Shutter Priority” lets you set the shutter speed while the camera adjusts the other settings. “Aperture Priority” does the same for aperture. If you’re more experienced, you can take full control with manual mode.

This is just the first in a series of articles designed for beginners, but it’s always helpful for even the more seasoned among us to revisit the fundamentals. If you have questions, feel free to leave a comment. No question is too simple, and I’ll do my best to respond.

Until next time, Dear Reader.

Post Scriptum

I’ve noticed many of you arrive at this site through this page (probably from Google), so welcome! This is just the first in a broader series on photography. If you found this article helpful, there’s more where this came from. I also cover topics like composition, gear choices such as the Pentax ME Super, which as its name suggests is rather Super, the differences between 35mm and medium format, and my approach to street photography.

My aim is to demystify photography. It doesn’t have to be complicated. Whether you’re just starting out or already have some experience, I hope you’ll find something useful here. Thanks for reading, and don’t hesitate to ask questions or leave a comment. I look forward to hearing from you.

Why the Pentax ME Super Is the Perfect First Film Camera (Even in 2026)

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The Pentax ME Super is one of the finest 35mm SLRs ever made. Small, quiet, and genuinely capable; it’s still available on the used market for a fraction of what most beginners spend on their first camera. If you’re getting into film photography, it belongs on your shortlist.

What It’s Actually Like to Shoot

Mine came from Robert with two lenses already attached. I trusted him, put some film in, and tried it out. Some of the photos worked and some didn’t — but that was about getting used to the camera, not the camera failing. The more I used it, the more it became second nature. It has the same feel as my X100F, which is a high compliment: a camera that stops being something you operate and becomes something you just use.

I’ve shot with it on the streets of Nantes and taken it into the mountains. In the mountains especially, I was impressed — I could just put the film in and take photos. No fussing, no second-guessing the settings. A 24mm from my cousin in the States, a 28mm and 50mm that came with the camera from Robert. Between those three focal lengths, it covers everything: architecture, people, light, the kind of landscape you find when you’re walking a city and the streets go quiet.

The shutter isn’t noisy. It’s not silent either — this is a 1980 SLR, not a rangefinder — but it doesn’t announce itself. The Nikon FE is louder; that’s the sound of different machinery. The ME Super just gets on with it.

The Films Worth Putting Through It

Most of what goes through mine is HP5+ or Fomapan, and the ME Super handles both well.

HP5 is the obvious choice for a camera like this — fast enough to keep pace with aperture priority in unpredictable light, forgiving of the exposure errors you’ll make while learning to trust the meter, and consistent enough that you stop thinking about it. That’s a compliment. The best film stock for a camera you’re still getting to know is one that gets out of the way. And with a top shutter speed of 1/2000th, you can shoot HP5 at box speed and still open the lens right up in decent light — something a lot of cameras at this price point can’t offer.

Fomapan earns its place differently. It’s cheap enough that you stop treating frames like they matter, which turns out to produce better shooting habits than expensive film does. Fomapan 400 in particular has a quality to it — grainier than Ilford, lower in contrast, a little rougher around the edges — that suits a camera from 1980. They feel like they belong together. Fomapan 100 wants better light, but when it gets it, the results are clean and sharp in a way that doesn’t announce itself.

The two together cover most situations without requiring much thought about which to reach for.

ME Super vs. the Standard ME

The two cameras are nearly identical. Same compact body, same K-mount, same aperture-priority automation, same viewfinder. If you handed both to someone who didn’t know what they were holding, they’d be hard pressed to tell them apart.

The difference is that the ME locks you into aperture priority entirely. The Super adds manual mode — two small buttons that step the shutter speed up or down — but that’s not really why you’d choose it. Most of the time, you won’t touch those buttons. The meter is good enough that you don’t need to.

The reason to get the Super over the ME is for the moments when the meter gets it wrong, or when you’re shooting something unusual enough that you want to override it rather than argue with it through exposure compensation. It’s a fallback, not a feature. But it’s a useful one to have, and since the two cameras sell for similar prices, there’s no real reason to choose the more limited version.

If you know for certain that you want a point-and-shoot experience and nothing else, the ME does that. For everyone else, the Super is the sensible default.

Buying Used: What to Check

These cameras have been around for over 40 years and most copies you’ll find have lived some kind of life. The things worth checking are specific.

Battery corrosion is real. My cousin sent me his old Pentax K1000 from the States — same era, same dependency on small cells — and the battery compartment corrosion meant it went straight into a drawer waiting for repair. I kept the 24mm lens. The ME Super takes two LR44 cells in the base; check the contacts before you commit. Light oxidation can be cleaned. Green crust is a different problem.

Mirror foam is the other common issue — the light-sealing foam around the mirror box breaks down over time into a sticky residue. Open the back and look. If you see black gunk around the mirror frame, budget for a re-foam job. DIY kits exist; a repair shop will charge €20–40. It’s not a reason to walk away, but it’s worth knowing about going in.

Check the shutter at all speeds in manual mode, and look at the door seals along the back for crumbled foam — that’s light leaks on your first roll.

A working body in decent condition currently sells for around €70–130, with the sweet spot around €80–100. With a 50mm lens: €85–130. Serviced or near-mint examples from Japan go higher — €150 and above. Parts-only bodies start around €15. Anything listed as “untested” is a gamble worth skipping unless the price reflects the risk.

A Note on Batteries

One thing worth knowing before your first outing: the ME Super is almost entirely battery-dependent. Without working LR44 cells, you have exactly one shutter speed — a mechanical 1/125 failsafe. In good light with the right aperture, that can save a situation. In anything trickier, you’re stuck.

Carry a spare pair. They’re cheap, they last a long time under normal use, but running out mid-shoot on a cloudy afternoon in a city you’ve walked an hour to reach is frustrating in a way that’s easily avoided.

Technical Specifications

  • Shutter speed: 4 seconds to 1/2000th, plus Bulb
  • ISO range: 12–1600
  • Exposure control: Aperture priority (with manual override)
  • Viewfinder: 0.9x magnification, 95% coverage
  • Other: self-timer, cable release socket, exposure compensation (±2 stops), K-mount lens compatibility
Wind socks photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 film in Nantes, black and white street photography
La Grue Jaune crane at the Hangar à bananes in Nantes, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
The waterfront near the Hangar à bananes in Nantes, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
A second view of La Grue Jaune at the Hangar à bananes in Nantes, shot on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
A street musician playing guitar in Nantes, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
Bokeh shot at the Hangar à bananes in Nantes, taken on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100, demonstrating the 50mm lens's shallow depth of field
Street portrait of a man in Nantes, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
A bicycle in the streets of Nantes, shot on a Pentax ME Super with Fomapan 100 black and white film
A landscape in Clisson, France, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Ilford HP5 black and white film
A street scene in Clisson, France, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Ilford HP5 black and white film
Portrait of a young man in Clisson, France, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Ilford HP5 black and white film
The Le Voyage à Nantes art trail installation photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Ilford HP5 black and white film
Café Bécot in Nantes photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Ilford HP5 black and white film, street photography
A bicycle on a Nantes street photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Rollei RPX 100 black and white film
The Pitta Pit restaurant frontage in Nantes, photographed on a Pentax ME Super with Rollei RPX 100 black and white film
A pub frontage in the streets of Nantes, shot on a Pentax ME Super with Rollei RPX 100 black and white film
Post Scriptum

If the Pentax ME Super has caught your attention, I’d recommend checking out my other posts on classic film cameras like the Olympus Pen EE S (Aug 9, 2023) or my reflections on the lasting appeal of film photography in In Defense of Film (Aug 23, 2023). For a more in-depth look at the Pentax in action, mark your calendars for Capturing the Essence of Nantes: A Street Photography Journey with the Pentax ME Super and Kentmere 100 Film (coming Nov 17, 2023). And for those curious about the Fujifilm X100F, you can preview how it compares in Seeing the World Through 35mm: Street Photography with the Fujifilm X100F (Jun 21, 2023). A more detailed comparison between these two cameras is also coming this November!