Back to Hell’s Belz


Welcome back, dear reader, to my world.

Today we will talk about families, food, being a hero, and more family, and kir. I know you can’t wait, so let’s begin.

Arrival in Bretagne

It was early evening and we eventually arrived in Bretagne, feeling very warm, surprisingly peaceful, and ready for whatever the weekend had in store for us. Or so I thought, but more about that later.

We arrived and my mother-in-law was talking to some people with Southern accents. Strange… But I recognised something in the gentleman’s voice. It was Raymond and Sylvie who are friends with Marina, my sister-in-law, and Vincent, her husband. You’re going to meet quite a few members of the family, so try and keep up. Vincent is deaf and has a hearing loss of 94%. Raymond was completely deaf, but had had a cochlear implant and could now hear! Isn’t science amazing. Sylvie is his wife.

L’Apéro – The Social Ritual That Just Happens

As will happen in summer, especially in France, we settled down to have the apéro. What an amazing invention. I have talked about this before, but they just seem to happen and people just know what to do and fit naturally into their respective roles. We talked about our hearing aids, and the difference they made in our lives. And started cracking jokes and basically having a good time. I was on the fizzy mineral water—you never know when you might need a driver.

Crisis Calls – Jessica and Xavier Need Rescue

We were in coastal Bretagne and it was nice to be back seeing Gisèle, my mother-in-law. The conversation was flowing and it was turning out to be a lovely evening. The phone rang. For once, Gisèle heard the phone and answered it. She has hearing problems too. Jessica, my wife’s other sister, and her husband Xavier, had been in La Rochelle and had taken a coach to get back home. That coach was late, and the boat back had stopped running. Ian to the rescue.

Xavier and I are the black sheep of the family, and get the most criticism. Xavier, because he is Xavier, and me because I’m not French. After 30 years we have become accustomed to our rôles and are secretly proud of it.

To the Rescue – Loca Loca Restaurant, Here We Come

I reminded my mother-in-law how shitty it can be when a plan, well, doesn’t go to plan—even more so when it’s not your fault. I said, right, let’s get in the car and go and get them. My mother-in-law would be the navigator. She asked if my car was a new car. I wasn’t, but it would be nice if it were. And wasn’t it far to drive? No, it wasn’t. She would have told them to stay the night with their son. True, but isn’t it nice, at the end of a long day of plans going wrong, to have something that goes right? It’s good to be good, etc.

Embrassades and Bises – Reunited at Last

We arrived at the station and couldn’t find each other. Gisèle was starting to get worked up, and I just calmed the situation down. Jess, you where? OK. I don’t know how to get there but I saw the Loca Loca restaurant. Can you both go there? They could. I drove round the block and I’m not sure whether where I parked was legal, but no flying farts were given, and that would be where I would be parking to pick them up. Embrassades and the famous “bise” and let’s get that case into the boot. Try and find a place on the back seat. They found a place on the back seat. And back to Belz to get them home. Yes, it’s good being good.

Kir, Shrimps, and a Forgotten CPAP Machine

Gisèle and I got back to her house, and the Kir was flowing and now it was my turn to have a few. Very nice it was too. We talked, talked, and talked some more, and Raymond went back to Sylvie and Gisèle, my wife and I decided to eat. Shrimps, homemade mayonnaise, and boiled potatoes. Simple, and wonderful!

We were to sleep in the bureau. My wife was upset at me because I had forgotten my CPAP machine. I would just go to sleep and enjoy the night… Tomorrow would be another day, full of adventure. Well, everything is relative I suppose. I will see you, Dear Reader, tomorrow…

The Opening of the Film Archives – Carnac, 26/06/2016


The photos in this article, from the famous film archive, were taken eight years ago almost to the day, during a weekend visiting my mother-in-law near Carnac, and near where my father-in-law lives. They’re divorced, and as usual, I stayed with her, not him. The photos feature my brother-in-law, who bears a striking resemblance to a beefy Dominic Farrugia, and my niece – not my favourite, but likeable enough (and those who claim not to have favourites are just liars!).

I shot these with my Canon AE1, a camera that saw a lot of action back then. Loaded with Ilford HP5 Plus and developed in Rodinal, they turned out a bit grainier than I expected, even for HP5 at box speed. I blame my overly enthusiastic agitation during development – I’ve always been a bit of a stirrer! Even back then, I had this habit of sneaking off to “do some photography,” a habit that hasn’t changed much, it seems.

Funny thing is, this wasn’t my first time in Carnac. As a kid, plagued by ear infections, flying was out of the question, so we had many a family holiday in France. One such trip was to Carnac, in the Morbihan region. Who would have thought that over 30 years later, I’d be back here so often?

Now, 30 years ago, you could wander freely around those mysterious Carnac stones. My mother, bless her imaginative soul, convinced me they were people caught dancing on the Sabbath and turned to stone as punishment. Ever since, I’ve had a healthy aversion to Sunday line dancing! Sadly, you can’t get close to the stones anymore – they’re cordoned off, perhaps a warning to those Breton folk dancers not to get too carried away.

Back then, HP5 was my go-to film. I wanted to know it inside out. Visiting the stones was a welcome escape from the lively, shall we say, family gatherings. Don’t get me wrong, I love my in-laws, but their intensity can be a bit much for this introvert. The stones, silently standing there, offered a tranquil contrast.

Years later, I watched a film, “The Fablemans,” about Steven Spielberg. The advice at the end, to keep horizons high or low in your images for more interest, struck a chord. Unbeknownst to me, I was already doing this! When I first started out, I meticulously documented every shot in a notebook – aperture, speed, film, camera, the lot. I kept this up for over a year before finally giving it up. These days, all that info is tucked away in your image file’s metadata, but not with film. There’s a certain freedom in that, wouldn’t you agree?

Reflecting on these old photos from Carnac, I am reminded of the enduring allure of photography and the quiet majesty of ancient stones. Each visit to Carnac, captured through the lens of my Canon AE1 and HP5 film, evokes memories of childhood holidays and solitary moments amidst family gatherings. The evolution from meticulous note-taking to embracing the simplicity of film photography has taught me to approach each shot with intention and mindfulness.

In the digital age, where metadata stores the technical details of our images, there remains a certain freedom in the analog process. It encourages a deeper connection with the art form, requiring us to engage fully in the moment of capture. The stones of Carnac stand as timeless witnesses to history, echoing the evolution of photography itself – ever-present, ever-evolving.

As I continue to explore new landscapes and subjects through my lens, I carry with me the lessons learned amidst the stones of Carnac: to capture not just images, but stories; not just moments, but emotions frozen in time. Photography, in its simplest form, remains a profound journey of discovery and expression, rooted in a rich tradition that continues to inspire.