China – Shenzhen to Hangzhou


New Year’s Eve

That last night in Shenzhen was going to be a short one. We had to be in the lobby at 6:30 a.m. the next morning, and I still had laundry to do. I managed it—though without an iron, my shirts weren’t as sharp as I’d have liked. Luckily, I wasn’t the only last-minute person; a few colleagues joined me. Doing laundry can feel tedious at the best of times, let alone on an unfamiliar machine with instructions in Chinese. Google Lens to the rescue! Thankfully, the dryers used pictograms instead of script. By 1:30 a.m., the task was done and dusted.

Feeling proud of my late-night accomplishment, I returned to my room to pack my suitcase, leaving only the electronics and CPAP machine for the morning. With just a few hours of sleep, I was up and ready to go, looking presentable enough to head to the lobby.
The lift opened to a procession of bleary-eyed colleagues—some visibly worn out, others trying to fake energy, and a few annoyingly chirpy. You can guess which category I fit into. We boarded the bus to the Shenzhen airport, where the process of travel began.

At the airport entrance, we went through the initial security check. I couldn’t help but wonder about its effectiveness—if someone wanted to cause harm, the entrance seemed as vulnerable as anywhere else. Still, the process felt routine, and the crowd was patient. We checked in, dropped off our luggage, and received new labels for the domestic flight to Hangzhou. Knowing we’d miss breakfast, our organisers provided us with brown paper bags containing a banana, a small brioche, and a yoghurt drink. Not the most substantial meal, but sometimes “enough” is enough. There is a joke about that: “Why is just one egg for breakfast sufficient for a Frenchman? Because one egg is un oeuf…”

Leaving Shenzhen was tinged with sadness. I’d enjoyed my time there—the bustling city, the open and welcoming atmosphere, and the superb weather all left a good impression. I also appreciated just having a weekend off to myself to reflect on this China experience. We were at the halfway point in our tour, and it felt like we were slowly moving back towards our more mundane existence back home—a bit like the Sunday night blues. I regretted not being able to visit Hong Kong across the bay, as leaving the mainland would have invalidated my work visa. Despite that, Shenzhen felt like a place I’d love to revisit—a city that put me at ease.

At the airport, we sleepily boarded a bus to our plane. The drive across the tarmac seemed to take forever, weaving through runways and passages. Finally, we boarded the aircraft. It was a Chinese domestic airline, and like with Air China, I couldn’t fault the service. I could, however, fault the passenger in front of me, who reclined their seat as far back as possible. Deciding to pick my battles wisely, I opted for the high road (and multiple trips to the loo, courtesy of the Sprite they kept plying me with).

The flight was short compared to the long-haul journeys to get to China, so I endured the discomfort with grace. At baggage reclaim, I silently prayed for my suitcase to appear—and eventually, it did.
We were herded onto our respective buses and driven to our hotel. You’re probably getting into the rhythm of touring now. Yes, that’s right! Dropped off at the hotel, then off to a restaurant for lunch. This time, the regional differences were evident—spicier dishes and more vegetables. Sitting with the girls and Catherine, I enjoyed the meal, even relishing the chicken feet.

A musician and his wife at a nearby table seemed less impressed. They talked about missing French cheese and looked at me oddly as I tucked into the local fare. I won’t repeat my thoughts at the time, but let’s say they weren’t complimentary.

Some impetuous, and adventurous souls decided to explore that afternoon before heading back to change for the evening’s rehearsal and concert. Corentin was one of them, and later told me about the sights he’d seen. I decided to rest instead and have a nice cup of the complimentary tea. I like rest and a nice cup of tea. I needed to rest and have a nice cup of tea.

We headed off to the venue on foot! Again, a wonderful welcome making us feel at home. Fruits ready for us as well as tea. Yummy. We had our New Year’s Eve concert, and the audience loved it. A very satisfactory evening, and definitely the high point of the evening. All we had to do now was to get back to the hotel, get changed, freshen up, and head off for our evening meal, and our New Year’s Eve party!

The concert had gone wonderfully, and there was a sense of satisfaction as I made my way back to the hotel. The evening had unfolded perfectly, and I was proud of the performance. But that satisfaction quickly slipped away as the night wore on.
I should have been looking forward to the evening ahead—a celebration, a New Year’s Eve party. But instead, frustration took over. I’d been told the restaurant was a short walk away, but somewhere along the way, things had changed, and my lack of direction—along with a memory that failed me—left me in a bind. It was one of those moments when everything felt wrong, and my patience had all but evaporated. The restaurant where we had had lunch was empty and the lights were off upstairs where I expected to eat.

The thought of the party, the noise, the forced cheerfulness, made my frustration grow. I didn’t want to join in, not when I was feeling so irritated and defeated. I was basically furious. The exhaustion from the long day only amplified my mood. My inner voice couldn’t have been clearer: “Fuck this for a game of soldiers.” I was done.

Instead of ringing in the New Year with everyone else, I did the one thing that felt right—I went to bed. I wasn’t in the mood for any celebrations. It wasn’t just about the confusion with the venue; it was the cumulative weight of the long day. As midnight approached, I just didn’t care.

I should have been looking forward to the evening ahead—a celebration, a New Year’s Eve party. But it wasn’t to be.  Things just went from bad to worse.   I’d been told the restaurant was a short walk away, but somewhere along the way, things had changed, and my lack of direction—along with a memory that failed me—left me up the proverbial creek without a paddle. It was one of those moments when everything felt wrong, and my patience had all but evaporated  The restaurant where we had had lunch was empty and the lights were off upstairs where I expected to eat. I was basically furious at my own incompetence and ineptitude.  My inner voice couldn’t have been clearer: “Fuck this for a game of soldiers.” I hated myself.

Instead of ringing in the New Year with everyone else, I did the one thing that felt right—I went to bed. I wasn’t in the mood for any celebrations. It wasn’t just about the confusion with the venue; it could well have been the cumulative effect of a very long day. As midnight approached, I just didn’t care.

Kate said she would call at midnight but instead I called her, hoping to find a moment of calm ad reassure her that all was well in the world. Speaking with her helped, but only because I had to make the effort to mask my frustration, not wanting to burden her with my mood. That effort, though, was enough to steady my emotions, if only slightly.  That girl knows how to calm down her old man.

No sooner had I ended the call than there was a knock at the door. And just like that, my brief reprieve was shattered by Eléonore, Mathilde, and Titaua with a bottle in hand, ready to ring in the New Year. I opened the door, still in my boxer shorts, and offered a clipped “Happy New Year.” They probably didn’t expect it, but it was all I could muster. Sometimes, you just want to fall off the face of the earth.

Not the best of evenings, but considering what had happened, what did you expect? Can’t be bright-eyed and bushy-tailed every night.

China – from Changsha to Yongzhou


Good morning, Dear Reader. Now, I know from the photos below you will find it hard to believe that it was actually Christmas Day! I didn’t believe it either. But it was! We were about to get to know the routine of our tour. Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty: Get up, skip breakfast, get on the bus, stop off at a service station along the way, buy snacks and water, get to the next city, get to the hotel, drop off luggage, go to a restaurant for lunch, hand over our passports, get the keys to our room, inspect our rooms, get a quick shower, get into concert attire, get to the venue, rehearse, and get used to the acoustics of the venue. Then, get back to the hotel, eat, go to bed, and repeat. This was to be my life for the next two weeks. Oh, and get some photographs to show you, my Dear Reader.

We had been warned that the seats on the bus had been decided and there would definitely be no changes. Final. End of story. Out of the question! Don’t even think about it! So, of course, my roommate Corentin decided to raise a massive hoo-ha about the whole situation and at our December concerts, started dropping slightly unsubtle hints, which were to continue in the SBL China WhatsApp group.

Christmas Day came around, and on our bus was Corentin. The little bugger had succeeded and worn down Madame le Président. So not only was he to be my roommate for the tour, but also my bus mate. He was happy! As was I. He’s an amiable boy and also good company. He looked after Uncle Ian very well during the tour. His enthusiasm, albeit sometimes tiring, was infectious.

As the Boy Scout I once was many, many moons ago, I had learned the importance of “being prepared.” For our first service station stop, I knew they don’t use cards as we do. Apple Pay etc., are not used either. But it wasn’t a problem as I had Alipay. I knew there was something about scanning a code or being scanned, and that payments could be done this way. I was ready. I had done everything correctly. But, as in most military campaigns, no plan survives first contact. The bloody thing wasn’t working. I had had my daily happy pills, so I didn’t feel the need to panic, even though my heart was racing. I created another account, and it worked from there on in. I was still furious, though. Those snacks looked amazing. Although the chicken feet might have been a bit of a challenge—not your first idea of a tasty snack… Ah well. The youngsters at the back took pity on Uncle Ian and let him taste some of their snacks. Certainly different, slightly more spicy, and not like what you might find in a French service station, with their legendary overpriced sandwiches…

We eventually arrived at Yongzhou, and we were shepherded into our hotel. We dropped off our bags and crossed the road to the restaurant. On the way over, one of our bassoon players had a funny turn and ended up visiting a Chinese hospital ER. Not what we were hoping for, but we saw him later that day, and everything was a lot better, though he was still being watched over. We were all very worried about him, but all we could do was pray, hope, and not worry. He was in good hands.

The restaurant was in a shopping centre. Lunch? When I say lunch, I mean banquet. We were seated at enormous round tables, though I thought that taking on the role of Arthur might be overdoing it a tad. In the middle of this huge round table was a circular glass tray, where, as if by magic, dishes laden with Chinese food would appear. The drink served with the meal was jasmine tea, which was very nice too and felt so very refined. Then somebody said the magic word: Beer! Surprisingly, smiles appeared on our faces too! I’ll tell you a little more about that later on…

The food, of course, was amazing, and I started feeling that I could get used to this—and of course, I did… At the end of the meal, the Corentin love machine went into action, and he was covered with Chinese ladies of all ages vying to get a selfie with him. It was then that I dubbed him Sir Fanny Magnet! He was very happy with his new name and fame. So that’s what it’s like taking one for the team! Bless his cotton socks.

Then it was my turn. Walking to the restaurant, I had noticed a shop selling goat’s milk products, and the ladies inside seemed overjoyed to see us passing by. They were even more buoyed up when we passed by them again! They asked me if they could take a photo of me with a small bottle in hand. I, of course, acquiesced as one must, and I have the feeling that my Chinese modelling career was just about to take off. It was also most amusing, and certainly flattering. I felt amazing. The Corentin for the more mature and discerning Chinese lady… The others laughed as they passed by, taking photos and giggling. But why on earth not? You have to get into the swing of things!

The lady responsible for my bourgoning China top modelling career…

Back at the hotel, I got showered and changed into my concert suit and looked rather dashing, if I don’t say so myself. After the success of my photoshoot post-lunch, I was still on a high! Off we went to the concert venue for the evening’s performance. It was all very impressive, as was the welcome by the theatre staff. The actual stage was huge, and for the afternoon rehearsal, everything was ready for us. We just had to walk on stage and play. I could definitely get used to this. I even managed to get a few photos, including a short series of the boss playing Gabriel’s Oboe from the soundtrack of the film “Mission.” Not the impossible one, I hasten to add.

It was during this rehearsal that I got to know our soloist, Jennifer Councier, a little more. That girl’s voice is amazing and fills up the whole amphitheatre. She’s an absolutely wonderful singer.

The concert went very well, and the audience was on grand form. When Jennifer sang the Chinese song, we had only played the first two bars when the audience joined in. Can you get any better than spontaneous audience participation? Probably not. Apparently, the Chinese love a Viennese waltz by Strauss. They were also tickled pink when Corentin and Catherine, one of the first violins, and another couple of dancers went into the audience to waltz around. That poor boy got far too much attention. But he seemed to love every minute of it, judging by the grin on his face when he came back to join us on stage. The audience lapped up each piece of music, and their reception of our music was something I’m not going to forget for a long while. After our “Christmas” concert, we got back on the bus to go back to the hotel and eat. I know, more delicious food.

We were to eat at a different restaurant that evening. The food was amazing, and the place had a feeling of being a place for the locals too. Not just that, but they had beer too. Alipay had decided to work. Uncle Ian was about to have a “sesh.” Our colleagues drifted back to the hotel for a well-earned sleep. Uncle Ian was having a grand time of it. Uncle Ian was very happy about Alipay working, and the bonhomie was infectious, so much so that a table of Chinese lads offered me a beer and wished me a Happy Christmas. It certainly was turning out to be a very Happy Christmas. Now, these lads had a box of beer by their table and quite a few bottles on their table. They were having a great night. After our French colleagues left us, we invited them over to share some merriment. I wouldn’t describe myself as a drinker, but I will say that I have a knack for downing a beer at a rapid rate of knots. By the end of the night, our new friends for life, and of course, bosom buddies, were starting to feel a little wobbly on their legs. Corentin made me promise that I would just have one last beer. So one last beer it would be. He seemed a little terrified of the way the soirée was heading. He’s such a lovely boy for worrying about Uncle Ian… He managed to drag me away from our new friends and got me back to the hotel. Was he saving me from our new friends for life, or was he saving them from me. Only time will tell. I think the key phrase to the evening was “as happy as a pig in shit.”

Our new friends for life. Thank you Corentin for allowing me to use these images! The poor buggers didn’t know what hit them…

Beer, you see, has a special kind of magic to it. There’s something about it, something fundamental, that bridges gaps and makes two men from opposite corners of the world feel like old friends. Wine might carry elegance, and liquor can be quicker, but beer? Beer is no-nonsense. It’s a drink that demands little more than appreciation for its simplicity.

There’s a quiet dignity in a cold bottle, clinking against a glass, that says, “We’re here, we’re sharing this moment.” In a way, it carries a sense of noblesse, a kind of unwritten rule of hospitality: come, sit, have a drink, and let’s talk without pretense. There’s no rush, no grandiosity—just two people connecting. In the unlikeliest of places, beer brings people together, like a bridge that spans cultures and backgrounds.

I don’t mean to sound too lofty about it, but there’s something wonderfully egalitarian about beer. No matter where you’re from—be it France, or far-flung places like China—a beer is always the same. And, like some sort of unspoken contract, it helps dissolve differences.

Of course, there are jokes about beer that always float to the surface in these moments. Take, for instance, the old Irish joke about the “Irish queer”—and by this, I mean someone who prefers women to beer! It’s a bit cheeky, a bit irreverent, but in those rare moments when the last sip of beer is shared, it feels just right. Nothing can quite compare to the camaraderie that forms over a few cold ones, whether you’re bonding with a colleague or making a new friend halfway around the world. It’s this pure, unspoken connection that beer uniquely brings, and in that, it’s a drink that transcends.

And on these very wise words, I will leave you until the next installment…