China – Operation Shenzhen Nights


It had been a relaxing day. I’d emptied my mind by wandering around Shenzhen, taking colour photos for my wife, editing them on the go with Lightroom CC on my phone—all the power of Lightroom, neatly packaged for mobile. The afternoon had been just as easy-going. I could get used to this.

Corentin, Monsieur Lover Lover, and Paul “the Duck Tongue” Trouillet had decided that, since we weren’t performing that night, we’d head out for a bit of fun. Thus, Operation Shenzhen Nights was born. They’d planned everything down to the last detail. The walk to the tube station was about a kilometre, and even with my gammy knee, it was doable.

So, off we went—a whole group of us—to the Shenzhen tube. Along the way, we passed bustling restaurants where people were already seated for dinner. We walked by a pet shop where people were cuddling kittens. At least, I hoped it was just a pet shop and not a restaurant! The kittens were adorable.

The Saturday night energy was in full swing, with people out for meals or simply strolling. We were about to do much the same.

First, the journey into town. Entering the tube station, I was relieved to see all the signs in both Chinese and English—a lifesaver, as my Chinese still needs work. Passing through a baggage and body scanner was certainly out of the ordinary, but I quickly got over it. People often talk about personal freedoms in China, but it didn’t faze me in the least.

We bought our tickets—or more accurately, small green plastic disks that you scan to access the platform. Then came the stairs, and that’s when my gammy knee started to let itself be heared. Fortunately, there was a lift, which would have been a shame not to use. When the train arrived, I managed to grab a seat, camera ready to snap photos of the metro ride.

About an hour later, we reached our destination, where Operation Shenzhen Nights would truly begin.

Corentin, always as eager as a five-year-old at the zoo, practically bounced with excitement. His enthusiasm was infectious, and I tried to keep up, though one day I’ll have to explain the “pace of the slowest man” rule to him.

As we exited the tube, we were greeted by a sea of lights, red lanterns swaying overhead in celebration of Chinese New Year, and professional TikTok setups. These weren’t just quick phone clips—this was full-scale production, complete with lighting and sound. I still don’t quite get TikTok, but they sure seem to.

Paul and Corentin were already eager to dive into the street food, and it wouldn’t be the first stop of the evening. Skewers with all kinds of “supposedly” edible things lined the stalls. I was fine with chicken and octopus but drew the line at scorpions and crickets. Maybe next time I’ll embrace my more adventurous side.

The place was packed, with street restaurants everywhere. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a shop selling mineral water and bought a litre. I felt much better after hydrating. I knew it would mean a bathroom hunt later, but I threw caution to the wind. “Bugger it,” I thought. Some risks are worth taking.

The night was buzzing with energy—smells, sounds, and lights everywhere. Red lanterns swayed overhead, casting a warm glow as the city geared up for Chinese New Year. 

Paul and Corentin thrived in the chaos, eagerly planning their next round of snacks while some of the group veered off to McDonald’s for a quick bite. As we waited, we soaked in the atmosphere. When the others rejoined us, I was already with my camera taking shots of a city that seemed to be in perpetual motion. Operation Shenzhen Nights was rich with everything that mattered—good company, questionable snacks, and memories destined to linger long after the evening faded. 

We continued walking, and the boys ended up finding tofu in sauce, which they let me taste. I must learn how to cook tofu like that at home. But again, I drew the line at eating durian. “It can have a rather pungent smell,” he said, going for the understatement of the year.

As we left the main drag, the goal was to find a watering hole. And we did! More beer, and a last chance to have a bit to eat. I kept it simple with my food choices, but one of the group tried roasted silk worm chrysalids. Definitely interesting, but it turned out to be one of the less than tasty things of the evening.

The youngsters wanted to go to a nightclub, an idea which wasn’t really for me at nearly 53 years old. I’m not a fan of nightclubs and haven’t set foot in one since the early ‘90s. Still not a fan 30 years later. The elders of the group headed out for a beer, and the more adventurous of them had rice wine—or rather, rice alcohol. I ended up chatting to one of them until half past six in the morning. He had things to get off his chest, and I entered Uncle Ian mode.

China – Shenzhen Day 2


Welcome back to China, Dear Reader. First, let me tell you a little about Shenzhen to set the scene. It’s massive—really massive. Just across the bay is Hong Kong, which we handed back in 1997. Yes, we actually gave back a colony! It can happen. Shenzhen used to be Hong Kong’s poorer sibling, standing in its shadow. But China had bigger plans, determined to create a statement city to rival Hong Kong. Now, Shenzhen is home to 17 million people, boasting every modern convenience imaginable, even a higher GDP than Hong Kong.

The first thing I noticed here was the relative tidiness of the electric mopeds compared to Foshan. They were everywhere but parked neatly in rows, a small yet striking difference. We were staying near the UK China International College, which felt a little like home and looked rather grand. Across the road was a McDonald’s—a far nicer one than the ones in Nantes. I couldn’t help but wonder if visiting a McDonald’s in Shenzhen feels as novel to locals as Chinese restaurants do to us back home. Watching children celebrate their birthdays there was a joy. I promised myself I’d stop by later to experience it properly—but that, Dear Reader, will be for another time.

On the road from Foshan to Shenzhen, our organiser, Yuan Yuan, asked if we wanted to join an excursion on our first full day here. It included visiting a village—a sort of condensed version of China—and a park with miniature monuments from across the country. All for 25 euros. As a slightly introverted person, the idea of being stuck on a bus with a group filled me with dread. Oh heavens, no! I decided to opt out and spend the day enjoying some alone time, exploring the city, and indulging in street photography—a much-needed mental reset.

I’m not much for breakfasts, so I sipped my tea quietly, savouring every drop, alone, in my room. Tea—a hug in a mug. Much like chicken soup for the Jews: it might not cure anything, but it never hurts. I quietly prepared for the day, ticking off my morning routine. Triple S, of course, minus the smoke—it’s been 26 years since I quit. Feeling reasonably presentable, I headed down to the lobby to absorb the city’s atmosphere.

The first thing that struck me was the mild, sunny climate. It felt like a Northumberland summer, but in the middle of winter. Invigorating! As I stepped outside, I spotted one of the double bass players in the hotel shop. Should I avoid him and enjoy some me time? I hesitated but ended up joining him on a bench. He offered me a cookie, which was gladly accepted with the good grace with which it was offered. We chatted about nothing in particular, enjoying the weather—two blokes, passing the time of day.

Later, Michel, my walking companion for the morning, decided it was time to move out. I warned him I’d stop often to take photos, and he was happy to wait. The night before, my wife had remarked that while my photos were great, she’d like to see some in colour. Oh really? Challenge accepted.

We strolled at a leisurely pace—perfect for soaking in the city’s atmosphere and capturing its essence through my lens. Michel patiently waited as I darted around, snapping shots like a dog owner indulging their pup’s curious sniffs. I was content to get my daily paces in while immersing myself in Shenzhen’s charm, the perfect start to a day of exploration.

We arrived back at the hotel, and I was starting to feel slightly peckish. What more could I need than a visit to McDonald’s to help me out? Two of the lads had been there the night before and shared their thoughts about everything—the similarities and differences. I just had to go and see for myself. I ordered a double Filet-O-Fish, a bamboo and chicken wrap, a large coke, crinkle-cut chips, and an Oreo McFlurry. It cost me a grand total of 75 yuan, which seemed very reasonable. The lads hadn’t enjoyed the wrap much, but I found it to be delicious, and it really hit the spot. At least a four out of five for me!

Stuffed full of McDonald’s and pleased with my morning’s wandering, I made my way back to the hotel, ready for a short rest before heading out again. Shenzhen by day had been a pleasant surprise—neatly parked mopeds, familiar-yet-different fast food, and a city that felt both vast and oddly welcoming.

But Shenzhen by night? That was something else entirely. The streets lit up with neon, the air thick with the scent of street food sizzling away on open grills. Couples strolling, friends gathered around hotpot tables, and electric mopeds whizzing past, their riders silent but swift. The city didn’t slow down—it just changed gear.

With my camera in hand and my curiosity still buzzing, a whole group of us stepped back outside. Time to see what Shenzhen had to offer after dark.

Operation Shenzhen Nights was about to be launched…