The UK Chronicles Part VIII: From Chesters, to Rothbury, to Lesbury


Thank you for following this series of UK Chronicles, and I would just like to say that this is the last one. It had been a long day, but a good day, despite the disappointment in Otterburn. You overcome and adapt. Killian was still sad not to have some Roman armour though.

So, despite not rocking the Roman look, we still had to get back to Lesbury because that evening we would be eating with my parents in a pub in Boulmer, which was just down the road from Lesbury and on the coast. Boulmer is one of those little fishing villages that still has a small fleet of fishing boats that would have caught the fish and chips that we would be eating that night.

To get back home, I could take the more direct route, or I could go via the scenic route. Luckily for you, Dear Reader, we had enough time to take the scenic route. My driving was leisurely, or even slow, as we meandered through the bendy country roads. Again, just taking in the rural views and loving every minute of it. We wanted to go back to Rothbury to get another of those yummy sandwiches in the breadcakes that you only seem to be able to get in the UK.

We found the same parking spot as we did that very morning and crossed the road to go back to that morning’s bakery. It had just shut! Please don’t worry for us though; our lives still had some meaning. We visited the ironmongers that hadn’t yet opened that morning. It was one of those places that had everything that one could need, from bird feeders to butter dishes. Killian decided that I needed a new walking stick. He had seen me leaning with my old one, which, in his mind, was too small for me. I think he really had his eye on a shepherd’s crook, but we settled on a nice wooden walking stick that is just a tiny bit taller than my French ones, and it’s propped up against my desk as I write—a little reminder of home.

Killian suggested we walk to a particular shop and then return, now with my new walking stick in hand. Leisurely was definitely the word of the day and summed up our attitude to it so well. We strolled down to the RSPCA charity shop. I thought I might just be able to get Killian a jacket to help smarten him up a bit, but failed. Ah well. We walked past the toy shop, which you could tell was for rural folk. The amount of toy tractors and all the farming machinery was awe-inspiring. Somebody somewhere had obviously been frustrated as a child…

We passed the Queen’s Head pub, and surprise surprise, we went in. I ordered the drinks and the crisps, made sure Killian had a place to sit, and went to the loo. The bar was full of locals, I presume farmers, judging by the size and musculature of the men. It would appear that their Friday evening sesh was just beginning. There was a couple of walkers with their dog, and a water bowl had been provided, and the dog was enjoying some of the treats from the complimentary dog treat jar. While some find the Northumbrian accent incomprehensible, to me, it’s music to my ears. I get every word of it. Killian, although fully bilingual in English, was struggling, praying that nobody would come up to him and try talking to him. Poor lad. And that was despite a pint of creamy, silky John Smith’s Bitter!

We left Rothbury behind us, feeling as if all were good in this world. Leisurely and peaceful, which felt amazing. We would head back towards Alnwick and have another look at the scenery in a new light compared with that morning. I have taken this route a few times and in the valley have always noticed a castle, and this time I thought, you know what? I’m going to have a look at that place. We saw the sign to the village of Edlingham and its 14th-century castle and turned left. You park just in front of the church, and you can go and see the ruins. We went into the church and saw somebody taking photographs with an old film camera. This guy had a vintage Nikon, and it looked beautiful. As photographers will do, we started talking shop. We talked about the films we used and how my X100F, although not a film camera, was the nearest thing I had found to a film camera in its feel and use. The photographer mentioned that the castle ruins were propped up with large iron beams, which seemed to detract from their historical charm. So, we decided to skip the visit. We parted ways and left the church after having managed to capture a couple of photos. Killian came running back in to ask the guy if he had a Nissan. He did. Well, in that case, it was his car that had just smashed into the church gate. Killian lifted the damaged gate to put it against the wall, and the driver was convinced that he had put his handbrake on. The gentleman called the number on the church notice board to try and tell the vicar about what had happened, but there was no answer. We never did find out if the driver managed to reach the vicar, but it was an unexpected end to our day of exploration.

The UK Chronicles Part III: Bamburgh


Memories of Bamburgh: A Personal Connection

I’ve been going to Bamborourgh since I was a little boy. Fifty years later, it still affects me in a way that not many places do. Growing up, there was a painting of the castle in my mother’s bathroom, and ever since I learned photography, I’ve wanted to capture my own photo of the place. Patience, my dear boy, patience…

The last time I was there, I was with my wife and daughter. We explored the castle—a gurt big affair that overlooks the coast and the Farne Islands. This time, I was with my son. It’s all about passing on the experiences we’ve had to future generations. To be honest, this whole trip was about creating memories for the children and spending quality time with them. Ever wary of spending too much, we decided to visit just the village and the beach.

Exploring the Beach: A Walk through the Dunes

To get to the beach, you have to go through the dunes, following the paths, because wandering around the dunes willy-nilly is not the done thing—conservation of the local flora and fauna and all that. The castle towers above the beach, giving a sense of protection. By the time we got there, the beach was fairly full of people, dog walkers, and their dogs, all just enjoying the summer. A British, Northumbrian summer, but summer nonetheless.

I don’t know if you know, but I have a gammy knee and arthritis. I’ve also been taking collagen every day, and although it seems to be doing me good, it’s a bit early to see real effects. Killian was very kind, looking after me and making sure I was keeping up. He’s a good man, and it’s nice spending time with him. After walking on the beach for a while and letting me take my pictures, we found a log to sit on before heading back into the village.

A Stroll Back to the Village: Nostalgia and New Discoveries

As we headed back to the car, we came up the side of the castle and walked along the cricket ground. Dogs and their walkers were still out in force, with the owners throwing balls for the aforementioned dogs. All of a sudden, I missed Molly, our dog, and thought how much she would have loved coming with us, but she’s an old girl, and it wouldn’t have been feasible.

I thought about going up to the church to pay my respects to the local heroine, Grace Darling, who was the Lighthouse Keeper’s daughter in the 19th century. During an epic storm in 1838, a ship was wrecked on the Farne Islands, and Grace and her father went out in a rowing boat to pick up the survivors, as it was considered too rough a sea for the Seahouses lifeboat. They saved 9 out of the 62 passengers and had to shelter in the lighthouse for a further 3 days until the storm calmed down.

A Pub Lunch at The Lord Crewe: A Culinary Interlude

I didn’t manage to get that far. Killian, much like myself, has a weakness for pub lunches. And look, a pub! The Lord Crewe! One of those posh pubs that tries to hit above its station… We went straight to the bar and tried to order two pints of Guinness, while letting them know that we wanted to eat too. “Oh, in that case, just go up to the restaurant, and they’ll deal with you…” I was ready to leave the place and go somewhere else, but Killian was hungry, so we didn’t. However, we did enjoy being rude about the two barmen in French.

Killian decided on fish and chips, or “cod fillet with a beer batter”, and I went for the prawn cocktail. As you can see in the picture, even as Frenchmen, we couldn’t fault the presentation of the dishes. The taste was pretty good too! Eating a meal like that just takes you back to a place of joy and nostalgia. It takes you back to a place of calm and reflection. It takes you back to a place where everything is just the way it should be. It almost helped us forget the two barmen. Almost…

A rather delicious and impeccably presented prawn cocktail..

Continuing the Adventure: More Pints and Ice Cream

We paid and left, still joking at the barmen’s expense. We continued up the road and found the other pub. Ah well, another pint of Guinness. We never got to the church, but that was fine, as I already had the photos I wanted. The beach, the castle, and the dog walkers. We headed back towards the car and had that ice cream that we had noticed while walking up to pub number two. What a sound decision. It was very good ice cream and helped us forget the two rude barmen from the other place… Almost…

Capturing Bamburgh: A Photographer’s Reflections

Anyway, back to the car, and back to Lesbury to go and see the girls. I had the photograph I wanted. I wanted the castle, on top of its hill overlooking the beach and the dunes. The other photos were just a bonus. Yes, I went to a place for just one photo, but it was a photo I had been eager to get for some time. The next time I might just have to go at sunset to get the good light…

Photography Insights: Challenges and Techniques

Let’s conclude by talking about the photography from the day. The main technical difficulty was my camera’s metering of the scenes. I had to really expose for my highlights to compensate for the bright sky and the reflection of this light on the sand. I was actually worried about not being able to retrieve the information in the shadows. Luckily, Lightroom was a champion with photo editing and showed itself to be a top-notch app. For me, Bamburgh is all about the castle. It’s about the castle and the sea. It’s about the castle, the sea, the sand, and the dunes. If you can capture all that, then you’re well on your way to getting some pretty good photos.

A Day at Château de la Preuille: A Tale of Heritage, Friendship, and Unexpected Adventures


Hello Dear Reader! Today, I want to share a story with you, a story that unfolded under the skies of Saint Hilaire de Loulay. It’s a tale of heritage, friendship, and a day filled with unexpected adventures at Château de la Preuille. This picturesque château, which I’ve been photographing since my arrival in Saint Hilaire in 2001, holds a special place in my heart. This year, it unveiled a new chapter in its history, one that I had the privilege to document.

The Château and Its New Custodians

As the warm September sun bathed the château’s iconic towers, I couldn’t help but wonder at how time had woven our lives together. What began as a photographer’s fascination with this beautiful place morphosed into something deeper when I had the chance to meet Sandra and Paul, the château’s new owners from the Netherlands. Our paths crossed through my frequent visits to the castle with my camera, our mutual following on Instagram. Little did I know that this connection would lead to an extraordinary invitation — to document the Journées de Patrimoine 2023.

Journées de Patrimoine: A Glimpse Behind Closed Doors

The Journées de Patrimoine, or Heritage Days, are an important tradition in France, and a tradition that I embrace wholeheartedly. It’s the time when historic sites and monuments, normally closed to the public, throw open their doors and reveal their secrets to curious visitors. And Château de la Preuille was no exception. On Sunday, the 17th of September, 2023, the château took part in this tradition offering a rare glimpse into its storied past.

The Old Kitchens and a Giant Rubber Duckie

Inside the château, the only area accessible to the public was the old kitchens, overlooking the moat. It is someones home after all. From here, you have a captivating view of the moat itself, one of the majestic towers, and a rather amusing resident – a giant yellow rubber duckie! The water level in the moat was a lot lower than it should be. It is leaking water and needs repairing, but it still allows those lovely reflection photographs that everybdy seems to like.

Inside the kitchens, I discovered Louis Georges my old neighbour, who was exhibiting his wooden models of monuments and buildings, including meticulous replicas of the château itself. The intricacy and attention to detail were nothing short of remarkable, making it easy to recognize these iconic structures. He used to make them out of matches, and still referred to himself the whole day as Monsieur Alumette!

An Array of Delights in the Grounds

The rest of the day’s festivities took place in the château’s picturesque grounds, where an eclectic array of stalls and activities awaited. From jewelry crafted from delicate petals and leaves in resin to a herbologist sharing the secrets of plants, there was something to grab everyone’s interests.

As I wandered through this tapestry, I encountered a sophrologist promoting relaxation techniques, a candlemaker, an artist who used vegetables and fruits in her art workshops, a plant vendor, Vinnochio, a local wine merchant, a model boat club “navigat”sailing” their vessels in the swimming pool, fire eaters, magicians, two mad scientists in trees (or as my wife called them, les deux zozos en blouse blanche) telling us how trees breathe, eat and drink, and so much more.

Reunions and Rediscoveries:

During the day, I was pleasantly surprised to see a large number of familiar faces and old friends whom I hadn’t seen for such a long time. The château, with its rich history and vibrant present, became a meeting point for cherished reunions and heartwarming rediscoveries.

These encounters were like snapshots of the past (which is very useful because my memory seems to be slowly going on strike, and I can hear the comedy duo Al and Heimer at the door, rekindling old connections and fostering a sense of community. The smiles and embraces were a testament to the power of such events in bringing people together. It was a reminder that in this world, where the pace of life often feels relentless, its good to be good to people and maintaining meaningful connections truly matters.

The simple act of reaching out, whether through shared interests, mutual acquaintances, or the universal language of photography, allowed for these meaningful reunions. It underscored the importance of nurturing friendships and how small seemingly ordinary gestures can lead to extraordinary moments.

As the day unfolded, and amidst the laughter, music, it became clear that the Journées de Patrimoine at Château de la Preuille extended beyond heritage and history; it was about celebrating the warmth of personal connections. In a world that sometimes feels divided, this day served as a poignant reminder that kindness, friendship, and the willingness to engage in the beauty of heritage and community are treasures that bring out the best in us all.

A Day of Discovery

Food trucks catered to the gastronomic cravings of the large crowd. The French may be the French, but their food is excellent! And a bar run by the Comité de fêtes (yes, we have a party committee!) kept spirits high as well as raising money for repairing the moat. A DJ from “Angleterre” provided the soundtrack, vintage car enthusiasts proudly displayed their cars, and a specialist showcased games crafted from wood.

As the day unfolded, live music filled the air, and I, yours truly, had the incredible privilege of documenting every moment. But it didn’t end there. The château played host to a cycling outing, with participants in cycling helmets and lycra looking sportier than ever. The château, now in Dutch hands, even offered a dedicated parking area for bikes. How very Dutch!

Conclusion: A Day of Heritage, Friendship, and New Beginnings

As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over Château de la Preuille, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude. This day was not just about documenting history; it was about forging new connections, celebrating friendship, and cherishing the adventure that life brings.

So, Dear Reader, remember that life has a way of intertwining our passions and paths, leading us to places and people we never could have imagined. Château de la Preuille, with its rich history, artistic wonders, warm-hearted owners, and the embrace of old friends, showed me that heritage is not just about the past but also the vibrant present and the promising future.

Now, if you like the photographs in this article, I would suggest that you book a stay in the Castle. You can contact Sandra and Paul through their website, and Instagram. They can cater for range of events and the venue is popular for weddings. Can you imagine getting married and then staying in the very Castle where you had the reception. Yes you, you romantic little Reader, treat your spouse like the King or Queen that they are, and appreciate the magic. There may be a supplement for the massive rubber duckie. I’ll let you check with them….