Tag: China travel

China – Shenzhen Day 3

Posted on Posted in Black and White Photography, China, orchestra tour, Reportage, Street Photography, Travel photography, UrbanTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 8 Comments

A Day Off in Shenzhen – Rest, Reflection, and Culture

https://ijmphotography.net/2025/11/14/致我在中国的读者们：一封感谢信a-letter-of-gratitude-to-my-readers-in-china亲爱/

After a late night chat (you know how it goes on tour – what happens, stays on tour), I decided to treat myself to the luxury of a lie-in. And it was just what I needed. This felt like our mini-break during the tour – a sort of weekend off. It was well deserved. Life on tour can be demanding, and the emotional investment involved can really take its toll. Corentin and I both got up at the same time, and he was off to join the others in the big city. As for me, I was having a day to myself with my little companion – the X100F. Just the two of us.

So, what was the plan for the day? Well, I was hoping to visit a spa for a massage to sort out my legs. I’m not exactly fond of pain, but thought it would do me good. I have arthritis in my right knee, and although the weight loss has relieved much of the pain, my left knee has been compensating, and my left calf was starting to feel like it was on the brink of tearing. Not ideal. I had found a few places on TripAdvisor, one of which had a rather dubious reputation – apparently, not only offering massages but also “happy endings.” Definitely not for me. I did find a more refined option with a solid reputation for wellness. Perfect. All I had to do now was find it.

As I left the hotel, I bumped into Jennifer Courcier, our soloist and guest star. She still has an amazing voice – if you caught last week’s concert post, you would have heard it. If not, well, go have a listen now. I’ll wait…

Starbucks and Cultural Contradictions

Good, wasn’t it? Doesn’t she sing beautifully? Jennifer mentioned she was heading to the beach but first needed a coffee fix. Starbucks was nearby, so off we went for a caffeine hit. Now, whenever I hear the word “Starbucks,” the phrase “basic bitch” comes to mind. I never know what to order, so, with a bit of help, I discovered that “ordinary” coffee is actually a double espresso. My anxiety was starting to rise as I tried to make the choice, but I finally settled on the “Yunnan” blend. The Chinese barista prepared it with such care that I almost felt like royalty. Things were already looking up.

We sat on the terrace and chatted. I’d been mentoring one of my younger horn players to help him out of a funk. He had recently switched mouthpieces to improve his upper range but went back to his old one. Classic horn player existential crisis. If you know, you know. Jennifer had witnessed one of my coaching sessions and seemed quite impressed by the process. Maybe I did know a thing or two about teaching after all.

The coffee was excellent, and so was the company. We chatted some more, staying off the topic of music. Who wants to talk shop when you can get to know the real person? It humanises them, and Jennifer shared the story of how she became a professional singer, her journey to this point. We eventually parted ways, and I popped back into Starbucks to buy a couple of mugs for the children. One less thing to argue about back home.

Solo Adventure – Exploring the City

I managed to find the metro on my own and bought my little green ticket. The attendant asked where I was going and showed me the map. I couldn’t make sense of it, so out came my phone to zoom in on the stop I needed. I suddenly felt very old, yet thoroughly modern.

On the train, I just watched people, even managed to get a photo or two. My destination? Window to the World – a theme park where you can see replicas of monuments from around the world. I wasn’t going to pay for the full experience, as I’ve already seen many of the real monuments during my travels, but it seemed like good material for photography.

I’ve mentioned before the cultural differences between France and China, but this next observation took me by surprise. Let me introduce you to our characters: Chinese girlfriend and Chinese boyfriend. Chinese girlfriend is the picture of elegance, effortlessly fashionable, her makeup and hair flawless. Chinese boyfriend, by definition, is the photographer, capturing every moment to make his girlfriend look like a top model. She strikes a pose, usually demure and poised, while he stands there, holding the handbag, looking less than graceful. After a few snaps, she sends him back to retake the shot, and they repeat the process at every new location.

I could understand the desire to control one’s image, especially in a location that might seem exotic for a Chinese person, just as a pagoda in Europe feels exotic for us. In some ways, I must seem a bit exotic to them, too. Later, I learned that some people had been taking photos of me without approaching. It might have been a respect thing, as I was a bit older than them.

I wandered around, watching society unwind on a Sunday outing. It felt good to be alive. But then, it was time to head to my massage.

The Google Maps Mishap

I knew the spa wasn’t far away, but that’s where I made the mistake of trusting Google Maps in China. Let’s just say it’s not the most reliable way to get around here. It led me in the wrong direction, and before I knew it, I was walking the streets, getting increasingly lost. But in moments like these, you often find unexpected shots because you’re paying attention to everything, frantically trying to orient yourself. I eventually found my way thanks to a kind gentleman at a hotel who pointed me in the right direction. I was back on track.

The Deep Tissue Experience

Arriving at the spa, I was greeted by dimmed lighting, tea, and a comfortable chair to relax in. I chose a deep tissue massage that would last an hour – pure self-care. I was told there was a short wait, so I took the opportunity to edit some of my photos from earlier in the day. I was offered more tea by the receptionist, who made sure I felt well taken care of.

When it was my turn, I was shown to the massage room and instructed to change into the disposable undies and bathrobe. Let’s just say, as a bigger guy, I was given their largest robe, and it was definitely on the small side. The little lady who came in to perform the massage had no hesitation in digging her elbows into my back with surprising force. She asked if the pressure was okay, and honestly, it felt like her elbows were massaging so deep that they had gone right through me. The pressure was definitely intense, and despite whincing a little, I said the pressure was fine, lying through my back teeth. She worked through my back, shoulders, and calves, and though at times it felt a “little” too much, I could feel the benefits immediately. They don’t call it deep tissue for nothing!

Recharging and Reflection

After the massage, I was feeling thoroughly relaxed, though not quite “recharged” yet. It would take a couple of days before I truly felt the benefits, but it was already worth it. I was pampered with more tea, biscuits, and nuts – twice! I couldn’t fault the service.

Next, I popped into a shopping mall near the hotel, hoping to find a silk tie for my outfit. Dark jeans, nice shirt, and sports jacket – I looked quite dashing, if I do say so myself. But the price of the ties wasn’t going to work for me, I’m fine with a little luxury now and again, but everything within reason…

A Humorous End to the Day

I took the tube back to the hotel, but of course, I foolishly tried to use Google Maps again to navigate. That was a mistake. I ended up lost. As my phone battery started running low, I sent a WhatsApp message to Corentin, who suggested I take a taxi and sent me the address in Chinese. I was perfectly safe, but definitely lost. Eventually, I hailed a cab, showed the driver the address, and thanked him for saving me. When I told him how awful Google Maps was in China, he just smiled. The fare wasn’t much, but the relief of getting back to the hotel was priceless.

As the great man himself once said, “All’s well that ends well.”

China – Shenzhen Day 2

Posted on Posted in Black and White Photography, China, orchestra tour, Reportage, Street Photography, Travel photographyTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

Welcome back to China, Dear Reader. First, let me tell you a little about Shenzhen to set the scene. It’s massive—really massive. Just across the bay is Hong Kong, which we handed back in 1997. Yes, we actually gave back a colony! It can happen. Shenzhen used to be Hong Kong’s poorer sibling, standing in its shadow. But China had bigger plans, determined to create a statement city to rival Hong Kong. Now, Shenzhen is home to 17 million people, boasting every modern convenience imaginable, even a higher GDP than Hong Kong.

The first thing I noticed here was the relative tidiness of the electric mopeds compared to Foshan. They were everywhere but parked neatly in rows, a small yet striking difference. We were staying near the UK China International College, which felt a little like home and looked rather grand. Across the road was a McDonald’s—a far nicer one than the ones in Nantes. I couldn’t help but wonder if visiting a McDonald’s in Shenzhen feels as novel to locals as Chinese restaurants do to us back home. Watching children celebrate their birthdays there was a joy. I promised myself I’d stop by later to experience it properly—but that, Dear Reader, will be for another time.

On the road from Foshan to Shenzhen, our organiser, Yuan Yuan, asked if we wanted to join an excursion on our first full day here. It included visiting a village—a sort of condensed version of China—and a park with miniature monuments from across the country. All for 25 euros. As a slightly introverted person, the idea of being stuck on a bus with a group filled me with dread. Oh heavens, no! I decided to opt out and spend the day enjoying some alone time, exploring the city, and indulging in street photography—a much-needed mental reset.

I’m not much for breakfasts, so I sipped my tea quietly, savouring every drop, alone, in my room. Tea—a hug in a mug. Much like chicken soup for the Jews: it might not cure anything, but it never hurts. I quietly prepared for the day, ticking off my morning routine. Triple S, of course, minus the smoke—it’s been 26 years since I quit. Feeling reasonably presentable, I headed down to the lobby to absorb the city’s atmosphere.

The first thing that struck me was the mild, sunny climate. It felt like a Northumberland summer, but in the middle of winter. Invigorating! As I stepped outside, I spotted one of the double bass players in the hotel shop. Should I avoid him and enjoy some me time? I hesitated but ended up joining him on a bench. He offered me a cookie, which was gladly accepted with the good grace with which it was offered. We chatted about nothing in particular, enjoying the weather—two blokes, passing the time of day.

Later, Michel, my walking companion for the morning, decided it was time to move out. I warned him I’d stop often to take photos, and he was happy to wait. The night before, my wife had remarked that while my photos were great, she’d like to see some in colour. Oh really? Challenge accepted.

We strolled at a leisurely pace—perfect for soaking in the city’s atmosphere and capturing its essence through my lens. Michel patiently waited as I darted around, snapping shots like a dog owner indulging their pup’s curious sniffs. I was content to get my daily paces in while immersing myself in Shenzhen’s charm, the perfect start to a day of exploration.

We arrived back at the hotel, and I was starting to feel slightly peckish. What more could I need than a visit to McDonald’s to help me out? Two of the lads had been there the night before and shared their thoughts about everything—the similarities and differences. I just had to go and see for myself. I ordered a double Filet-O-Fish, a bamboo and chicken wrap, a large coke, crinkle-cut chips, and an Oreo McFlurry. It cost me a grand total of 75 yuan, which seemed very reasonable. The lads hadn’t enjoyed the wrap much, but I found it to be delicious, and it really hit the spot. At least a four out of five for me!

Stuffed full of McDonald’s and pleased with my morning’s wandering, I made my way back to the hotel, ready for a short rest before heading out again. Shenzhen by day had been a pleasant surprise—neatly parked mopeds, familiar-yet-different fast food, and a city that felt both vast and oddly welcoming.

But Shenzhen by night? That was something else entirely. The streets lit up with neon, the air thick with the scent of street food sizzling away on open grills. Couples strolling, friends gathered around hotpot tables, and electric mopeds whizzing past, their riders silent but swift. The city didn’t slow down—it just changed gear.

With my camera in hand and my curiosity still buzzing, a whole group of us stepped back outside. Time to see what Shenzhen had to offer after dark.

Operation Shenzhen Nights was about to be launched…

China – Foshan to Shenzhen Day 1 of 4

Posted on Posted in Black and White Photography, China, orchestra tour, Reportage, Travel photographyTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 2 Comments

Welcome, dear reader, to another round of “what happens on tour, stays on tour.” So, where were we? It was the morning in Foshan.  I had time to go out and explore before the drive to Shenzhen.

I would wander the streets and just take the odd photo.  At the moment I’m doing an intermittent fast to try and help me lose some of the extra baggage I’m carrying around my tummy and part of that is having a window of when I can eat and when I can’t.  That morning I decided to not be so hard on myself.

I was thinking about Killian and my tummy and just “popped in” to a local supermarket which was definitely on the super side.  As I passed each aisle I was thinking about how Killian would have felt seeing all the produce.  It was going to be impossible to fit a 25kg bag of rice in my suitcase so that will have to wait.  I left, with regret, but still kept going on.

Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a shop specialising in blueberries—or Myrtilles, as we call them in France.  There are one of my major food weaknesses, and when at home they have become the new Smarties.  Yes, I eat them by that handful.  The gentleman at the till spoke wonderful english, and I ordered a glass of mixed up berries with ice.  I was going to get those anti-oxidants and that yummy juice.  I was happy.  On the way back to the hotel, some of the youngsters passed me by.  They had been to Starbucks.  Well good for them.  I had had my juice and felt far more superior, and healthier!

It would be a mere 135km by bus to Shenzhen.  I was going to remain antisocial (is this a character trait?) and just chill.  Shenzhen is one of those places that is huge.  We seemed to be driving in its suburbs forever.  Out of the window we could see Hong Kong, where a lot of us would have fancied going but it was not to be.  It was like seeing a Christmas present and it being taken away before you can unwrap it.

We arrived at the hotel and I thought, “well this will do for the next four days…” and indeed it would!   We traisped up to our room and it was fine!  Maybe not as modern as some of the others that had obviously been refurbished.  We were on the more “classic” floor.  But it was for sleeping in, and those pillows again.  Wow! 

Now, let’s get this out of the way: I’m still a “big” man. Like many of us, I carry around a hefty complex about my body. Even though I’ve lost some weight, I’m still too self-conscious to deal with the horror of getting changed in a room full of less rotund gentlemen. Silly, I know, but those of you who’ve been there will understand. Anyway, there I was, looking halfway decent—or at least as much as my concert attire would allow. But I am not just Big Uncle Ian. I’m also a horn player with a few years of practice under my belt. I help keep my section together, and I know they can depend on me when needed.

When we pulled up to the venue, the sheer size of the theatre was a bit overwhelming—in the best possible way. I can’t speak for the others, but when I arrive at a venue, I like to take a moment to soak it all in. First, I park my instrument in the wings, safe from the risk of being knocked over by an overzealous stagehand, then I step onto the stage to breathe in the atmosphere. You know, just to get a sense of the place.

A long banner in Chinese draped across the front balcony greeted us. It looked very official, like the kind of thing you’d expect at an international summit. Nearby, neatly stacked boxes of red flags caught my eye. It reminded me of a joke I once cracked about my son’s ex-girlfriend: “That girl had more red flags than the Chinese Communist Party Convention.” But these flags, though? They were no joke—definitely more on the serious side of things.

Looking up, I couldn’t help but marvel at the rigging. Lights and decorations were everywhere, hanging in their designated spots, all set to work their magic later. The whole setup was impressive—so much so, I hadn’t even properly stepped onto the stage yet.

When I did, I looked out at the sea of seats waiting to be filled. The thought of all those Chinese bums soon occupying them was enough to make anyone feel a touch nervous. But this is what we’re here for, isn’t it? You’ve got your program, you’ve done your prep. All that’s left is to get out there and play. Do, don’t think. Just blow…

We were to perform the same concert as the previous one. That doesn’t change. What does change is the audience and the way in which they interact with your music. When Jennifer sang her “I Love You China” song, it was as if the audience needed permission to sing along. Once given, they sang perfectly, and just like that, they were on our side.

Corentin—sorry, Sir Fanny Magnet—leapt up for the waltzes and had as much success as ever with his growing fan club. That poor boy just gives and gives, and when there’s nothing left, still keeps giving, much to the delight of the many Chinese lady fans.  Fortunately, he was accompanied by Paul (the duck tongue) Trouillet and two lucky ladies from the orchestra.  Sharing is most certainly caring, and these two just give, give, give, and share, share, share.   

As always, during the interval and before and after the concert, the staff put out fruit, tea, and bottles of water for us. As you know, I’m not a big drinker, but I make sure to drink at least two litres of water and eat plenty of fruit and vegetables daily. It keeps me regular. I had been missing both my water and fruit rations, so I stuffed myself with fiber for my gut. They might not do water, but they certainly do do wonderful tea—and that was a lifesaver.

Corentin, the poor boy, was going through coffee withdrawal symptoms. You see, we all have our troubles to deal with!

After the concert, our familiar routine awaited us: the bus, the restaurant, and eventually bed. Or so I thought—Corentin had other plans. I had eaten with my Cholet friends and learned that the boy wanted to try his hand at Mahjong. It’s a game where four players sit at a table, and to win, you need to form pairs of tiles and a sequence of tiles. I had joined my Cholet friends for an after-meal beer to discuss our plans for the upcoming visit to Shenzhen. Once we had made our plans, we headed down to the Mahjong table to see how our favourite Walzer was faring.

By the time we all went to bed, that boy had won three out of four games! Luckily, no money was changing hands, but we did learn that huge debts can be racked up playing this game. The Chinese do like their betting.

Talking of giving, and sharing, here is recording of that night’s concert.  Featuring Sir Fanny Magnet et Paul “Duck Tongue” Trouillet dancing and lapping up the attention…

What I get up to when unsupervised…

China – YongZhou to Foshan

Posted on Posted in Black and White Photography, China, orchestra tour, Reportage, Street PhotographyTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 9 Comments

Boxing Day 2024

Now, you might think of accusing Uncle Ian of feeling a little delicate this morning after the previous evening’s “fun,” but I’m going to disappoint you. My head did not feel as if it had gone through 10 rounds with a certain Mr Tyson, though I will admit to feeling a little tired. Slightly less bright-eyed and bushy-tailed than I’ve known myself to be. Will that satisfy you? Good, then we shall move on. Today’s destination was Foshan, much further south, and our first stop in Guangdong Province.

We were to have a mere 500km bus ride to Foshan. I decided to be anti-social and put my headphones on, just staring out of the window. A more relaxed way of passing the time and something that allowed me to simply take in the countryside. And what countryside it was. Now, the Vendée, where I live, isn’t exactly known for its mountainous terrain. Think more Jane Birkin than Marilyn Monroe—flat, laid-back, and subtle. At first, I didn’t realise what the trees were; some appeared bent over and broken. I just thought they were very young trees, before eventually cottoning on to the fact that I was looking at bamboo forests on the hillsides. They reached high up, gently moving with the wind. It was something I had never witnessed before.

We passed houses and farms along the way too. Again, a stark contrast to the cityscapes we had previously contemplated.

There was, of course, the inevitable “stop pipi,” and we all shuffled into the service station, which still wasn’t selling overpriced sandwiches. But the snacks available were certainly something to behold.

Now, you may be wondering if I partook in the tasting of these delicious-looking snacks. I did not. I was afraid they might be a little on the spicy side. Otherwise, absolutely no problem with eating poultry feet. Really, none whatsoever! I ended up getting something that vaguely resembled a chicken burger. Cheap, filling enough, and actually quite nice!

We arrived at the hotel. Before lunch—well, you know the drill: passports, room keys, and then we could finally eat. By now, I was really getting into Chinese food, and my chopstick funk was over. I was back in form! I managed to grab a couple of photos of the table we were eating at to show you, Dear Reader. The central turning platter took up most of the space and, by the end of the meal, was piled high with dishes that were certainly on the interesting side. In French, we say “tout est bon dans le cochon,” as a means of justifying eating the whole animal. In China, there is no mistaking what you’re eating. The whole beast goes into or onto the serving plate. Even the chicken’s head and feet. It was on this day that I ate tortoise for the first time. It was delicious! I think I had to get over any Western superiority complex I may have had and just eat what was in front of me. It would save trauma later on, and my belly would be full. Oh, sweet ignorant bliss!

Inbetween lunch and getting ready to go to the theatre, I decided to relax by having a go at some street photography to get the “vibe” of the city.  The main “vibe” was the amount of electric scooters everywhere, and the fact that they drive on pavements.  The French might have called it “un joyeux bordel” but somehow, don’t ask me how, it all seemed to work flawlessly.  You had couples on scooters, mother and small children on scooters, gentlemen on scooters.  Everybody in that place was on an electric scooter, or so it seemed.  The only downfall of such a system especially with me being hard of hearing, was that I could only hear them when they honked their horns at me.  Usually I hate this, but they were all honking!  The sun was out.  I was out, and the whole process gave me a mental clense that was greatly appreciated!

If you know China at all you will know that they have a reputation for pollution.  Oooooh.  Pollution bad!  Pollution very nasty.  Not good.  However, it does give a wonderful diffused light for photography, and one of the way theys fight pollution is not only by a huge amount of electric scooters and electric cars, but also by spraying water vapour in the streets hoping to capture some of those not very nice particles.  You can see this in a couple of my street photos above  It is said that all their electricity comes from coal powered power stations, but I saw plenty of solar panels as well as wind turbines.  I think they’re really trying, and should be encouraged.

Back to the hotel, getting washed, and changed, and dressed to go to the theatre for the rehearsal and concert.  But that will be for another day…